New guy here needs some help..

[SunlitComet]

The switch on the actual windowed door can break really bad making the master not work. Those rivets hold the whole regulator setup onto the door panel and new rivets are $3 at dealers. It it be best to get a multimeter before going any further.

 

[Cougar1Car]

I will try switching switches with the other door first.

 

[gpracer1]

I don't have a gauge to check.. I'm pretty sure it's the motor. He must of had the window down some. The whole track is all rust.



Are the two rivets in the picture below holding the motor in??


What are the chances of both switches going bad at once??

I meant the gauge on the instrument cluster.

Wow, what a fking coincidence......I just went out to roll down the driver side window and nothing. Bastard wont work.
When I look at the volt meter on the cluster with key in acc, it dips slighlty....easier to see with a digital volt meter.
So my motor or regulator is locked up, switches and wiring good since it is still drawing juice.

 

[Cougar1Car]

Ok switched the rear passenger door switch with driver and wouldn't you know the window went up. Rolled it back down and back up again all worked fine or so it seemed. Rolled it down with the front switch it went down but wouldn't go back up with the front switch. Rolled up with the back one again than neither switch would work. Tried both switches on the rear passenger and both switches work fine. I'm thinking I have to check the wiring on the front door see if something is up.

 

[SunlitComet]

I meant the gauge on the instrument cluster.

Wow, what a fking coincidence......I just went out to roll down the driver side window and nothing. Bastard wont work.
When I look at the volt meter on the cluster with key in acc, it dips slighlty....easier to see with a digital volt meter.
So my motor or regulator is locked up, switches and wiring good since it is still drawing juice.

---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:33 PM ----------

Ok switched the rear passenger door switch with driver and wouldn't you know the window went up. Rolled it back down and back up again all worked fine or so it seemed. Rolled it down with the front switch it went down but wouldn't go back up with the front switch. Rolled up with the back one again than neither switch would work. Tried both switches on the rear passenger and both switches work fine. I'm thinking I have to check the wiring on the front door see if something is up.

I think it would be a good ideal to replace them all if you find no wire faults. They do break in weird ways but usually always from contact pitting.

 

[gpracer1]

After messing with it for a few minutes I got it working. I think it has a bad pole on the motor, or a bad tooth on the motor gear since it has a weird "spot" about 3-4 times while going up or down.

Time to order a regulator assembly.

 

[Uderro1]

I haven't had to replace any one my 96 yet but I did help on a 98 kon and after you take off the door trim there is a panel on the door that needs taken off. It contains the window regulator. After that is out you can get to the motor easily. You should be able to loosen the bottom bolts of that inside panel enough to get to the motor with out complete removal. There are 4 torque head screws holding the motor onto the regulator.

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

After messing with it for a few minutes I got it working. I think it has a bad pole on the motor, or a bad tooth on the motor gear since it has a weird "spot" about 3-4 times while going up or down.

Time to order a regulator assembly.

You can get just the motor without getting the regulator.

 

[Cougar1Car]

Now that problems kinda worked out I got another. I am having a problem with the rear passenger brake locking up if brake is pushed a hair harder than normal. Back brakes with all hardware were recently replaced brakes were adjusted than adjusted again and again. Still having the problem. Any ideas???

 

[Ceejkay]

my driver window locks up every once and a while in the full up position. im talking about twice in 8 months. i just take a punch and hit downward on that gear and it works again. then hit it up with some lube.. judging by the rivets on mine someone has replaced the assembly before... i know it isnt the right way but it hasnt been bad enough to replace

 

[SunlitComet]

Now that problems kinda worked out I got another. I am having a problem with the rear passenger brake locking up if brake is pushed a hair harder than normal. Back brakes with all hardware were recently replaced brakes were adjusted than adjusted again and again. Still having the problem. Any ideas???

You might have a leaking wheel brake cylinder that it contaminating linings or drum. How is the ABS reacting to it?