NNBS brake job done - pedal not firm

[Blackcar]

If I'm reading your post right, I start with front driver side first then move to pass front then rear etc.

 

[wjburken]

If I'm reading your post right, I start with front driver side first then move to pass front then rear etc.

Typically I start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move closer. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

 

[rockola1971]

Good info thanks! Would this tool only be necessary if air somehow got into the ABS module or part of the ABS was serviced? For hose and caliper changes shouldn't I be good to go?

You know the passage through the hoses from the calipers leads straight to the ABS valve body, right? If you disconnected a caliper and that line drained substantially then you have air up to your valve body and the first time you drove it an pressed on the brakes you cycled fluid into brake lines that have air in them. Depending on the volume of brake fluid drained originally will determine how long you fight this. It can get better by locking up the brakes and actuating the ABS and then trying the traditional bleeding that you are doing but the brake feel will not ever be right and you will be bleeding it until you are blue in the face and still not get it right. Ive been down this road. I got the brakes to the point where it was "safe" to drive and then ordered a clone Tech II and performed the built in brake bleed function and it took less than 15mins. The Tech II clones are cheap on aliexpress.. You can get a setup for around $300 and it will do alot. You can even turn one fuel injector off at a time for testing with the Tech II. Its awesome!

 

[4WDTRK]

You know the passage through the hoses from the calipers leads straight to the ABS valve body, right? If you disconnected a caliper and that line drained substantially then you have air up to your valve body and the first time you drove it an pressed on the brakes you cycled fluid into brake lines that have air in them. Depending on the volume of brake fluid drained originally will determine how long you fight this. It can get better by locking up the brakes and actuating the ABS and then trying the traditional bleeding that you are doing but the brake feel will not ever be right and you will be bleeding it until you are blue in the face and still not get it right. Ive been down this road. I got the brakes to the point where it was "safe" to drive and then ordered a clone Tech II and performed the built in brake bleed function and it took less than 15mins. The Tech II clones are cheap on aliexpress.. You can get a setup for around $300 and it will do alot. You can even turn one fuel injector off at a time for testing with the Tech II. Its awesome!

Great info! For the amount I would actually use a tech II I don't think I'd get my money's worth. I'm just gonna call my mechanic and get it to them for a bleed and be done with it. Thanks again!

 

[MassHoe04]

Great info! For the amount I would actually use a tech II I don't think I'd get my money's worth. I'm just gonna call my mechanic and get it to them for a bleed and be done with it. Thanks again!

I don't always like dropping cash for things that don't get used, but I did some of my own quick math...

I spent about $330 to get mine (about $250 + 1 week shipping from overseas).

Repair shop rates average $80 - $100 per hour.
Most shops charge 1 hour minimum.
Diagnostic fees, $150 (often waved, but only if they find something to repair and do the work - which is often more than 1 hour labor...)

Then add in things I mis-diagnose, buying parts I don't need and buying other parts I do need to finally fix the issue.

If I decide one part should fix an issue, buy it and the issue is not fixed. I'm in for the cost of the part + my time.
If I figure it has to be this other part, put that in and issue is not fixed... I'm in for cost of 2 parts + my time.
If I finally cave and bring it to the shop... I am in for 2 parts that didn't fix it, my time, at least $150 for diagnostic fees, any additional labor and any additional parts to actually fix it.

I may need help from the guys on the forum on some of the more in-depth functions of the Tech 2, but having it will allow me to dive in to individual sensor functions and diagnostic testing. If I can prevent myself from buying one extra part and avoid a total of 2 hours of shop labor... My Tech 2 will have paid for itself. $330 spent now has a very good chance of saving many times that amount over the next several years.

Nobody is forcing a Tech 2 on anyone, but from what I have seen and heard on the forum... Diagnosis and repair success rates are pretty convincing for people with Tech 2. If you are going to DIY the majority of work, it seems like the cost of a Tech 2 has great potential savings in time, money and aggravation.

I have not had to use my Tech 2 just yet, but I am ready and feel fairly confident it will be able to get me out of trouble some day. I'll be ready.

 

[4WDTRK]

I don't always like dropping cash for things that don't get used, but I did some of my own quick math...

I spent about $330 to get mine (about $250 + 1 week shipping from overseas).

Repair shop rates average $80 - $100 per hour.
Most shops charge 1 hour minimum.
Diagnostic fees, $150 (often waved, but only if they find something to repair and do the work - which is often more than 1 hour labor...)

Then add in things I mis-diagnose, buying parts I don't need and buying other parts I do need to finally fix the issue.

If I decide one part should fix an issue, buy it and the issue is not fixed. I'm in for the cost of the part + my time.
If I figure it has to be this other part, put that in and issue is not fixed... I'm in for cost of 2 parts + my time.
If I finally cave and bring it to the shop... I am in for 2 parts that didn't fix it, my time, at least $150 for diagnostic fees, any additional labor and any additional parts to actually fix it.

I may need help from the guys on the forum on some of the more in-depth functions of the Tech 2, but having it will allow me to dive in to individual sensor functions and diagnostic testing. If I can prevent myself from buying one extra part and avoid a total of 2 hours of shop labor... My Tech 2 will have paid for itself. $330 spent now has a very good chance of saving many times that amount over the next several years.

Nobody is forcing a Tech 2 on anyone, but from what I have seen and heard on the forum... Diagnosis and repair success rates are pretty convincing for people with Tech 2. If you are going to DIY the majority of work, it seems like the cost of a Tech 2 has great potential savings in time, money and aggravation.

I have not had to use my Tech 2 just yet, but I am ready and feel fairly confident it will be able to get me out of trouble some day. I'll be ready.

Again great info and I'm all for it! In this case I'm also in a bit of a time pinch and need my rig up and running asap. I may honestly look into one down the road though.

Another after thought... this issue may have been avoided by simply capping the disconnected hard lines with rubber vacuum caps. Would have saved mess and probably kept air from getting too far up the system.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Use a Tech 2 once to avoid taking your truck to the shop, and the Tech 2 probably already paid for itself. My Tech 2 has paid for itself many times over at this point.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Have you checked the Tech 2 members location thread? Might be someone close to you that has one they can let you use, or to give you a hand.

 

[MassHoe04]

Again great info and I'm all for it! In this case I'm also in a bit of a time pinch and need my rig up and running asap. I may honestly look into one down the road though.

Another after thought... this issue may have been avoided by simply capping the disconnected hard lines with rubber vacuum caps. Would have saved mess and probably kept air from getting too far up the system.

I've found myself in similar situations... I can totally relate! Tech 2 on a someday wishlist might be good to keep in mind for later.

On brakes:

When I did my rear calipers, I had the reservoir cap off (just resting on top for protection). I did one side at a time. While getting the rotor, pads and caliper situated on that side, I topped-off the reservoir to the very top and left the brake line disconnected from the caliper until I was ready to bleed.

I think I actually did a good thing for myself, even if I didn't really realize it at the time!

With the line disconnected while I worked on getting the other components assembled, fluid continued to drip into the catch pan below.
I work slow, so I kept checking the fluid in the reservoir and ended up topping-off a couple of times to keep it full to the brim.

When the other parts were in place, I then attached the line and bled.

What I might have done, even if unintentionally, was have gravity slowly and continuously flow fluid downstream from the reservoir to the open end of the line.

I think that did a couple of helpful things for me:
1) Prevented the Master Cylinder and booster from running dry (always full while the work was being done).
2) The slow, steady flow of fluid through the line under gravity prevented air from coming back into the line.
3) Provided a bit of a flush on the potentially dirty line even before attaching to my nice clean caliper.

Aside from the normal manual (one-person) bleed at the caliper, I didn't have to do anything. Pedal feel was great! Brakes worked as expected. No issues with ABS.

Like I said, I may have just done things they way I did them, without knowing I may have done something to my advantage for a change.

 

[4WDTRK]

Just ordered the damn scan tool lol! My mechanic says what I did should not have put air into the ABS system. I'm going to do a second bleed myself and figured why not just use the tool?