Not taking Gas

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Johnlipps

Johnlipps

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@Johnlipps post up your year, make, model, and engine size. Or better yet add it to your signature so it's always there.

Is the Check Engine ("money") light on? If the evap system can't vent, which is what this sounds like, many times there will be a Pxxxx code stored. Those can be read with the cheapest of scanners.
No check engine light, but I did have my buddy scan it just in case the bulb was blown or taken out.
 

wsteele

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No check engine light, but I did have my buddy scan it just in case the bulb was blown or taken out.
Did you check to make sure you don't have any collapsed or kinked vent lines?

If the lines are are OK, I would agree checking the lines for charcoal pellets (from the old canister) getting up into the lines and plugging them up might be worth checking. A few guys have gone through this and know the ideal pressure to use when blowing the lines out to clear them. Hopefully one of them will see your thread and drop in to opine.

Oh and if you get them cleared, don't add anymore gas after it kicks off when it is full. ;)
 

OR VietVet

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Did you check to make sure you don't have any collapsed or kinked vent lines?

If the lines are are OK, I would agree checking the lines for charcoal pellets (from the old canister) getting up into the lines and plugging them up might be worth checking. A few guys have gone through this and know the ideal pressure to use when blowing the lines out to clear them. Hopefully one of them will see your thread and drop in to opine.

Oh and if you get them cleared, don't add anymore gas after it kicks off when it is full. ;)
Yea, I tell 'em to fill the tank but no "top off".
 

Fless

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Your check engine light should light when you first turn on the ignition; it's a check for all of the cluster indicator lights. If it lights for a few seconds on startup, then it's working.

A knowledgeable person running a purge and seal on the evap system could narrow it down by what the test indicates. Has the vent line in the fill tube been checked for being clear and unobstructed? Also mentioned previously are the evap lines from the purge valve on the engine, through the canister to the tank.
 

09_4WD_YUKON

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See if you can find the thread I started on this crap. I changed everything and nothing worked. Last couple of things I did was to knock out the little flapper valve thing on the tank (backflow preventer, I think) and then I took the hoses off the charcoal canister and blew air back into the tank. Not sure if either of those worked, but it fills fine now. And it may have something to do with the 2 15" subs in the back vibrating everything too!! I was also told the gas tank needed to be changed after changing the canister and solenoids were changed and that didn't fix it, so I have a tank sitting in my garage right now.
 

09_4WD_YUKON

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Curious, who and why said that the tank needed changed after the evap work?
Had 2 different shops tell me that, one where I took it first to have it looked at and the other was my bro in laws shop. Said those tanks have a check valve on them that will stick and malfunction and they're not serviceable.
 

Bill 1960

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The vent cap on the end of the vent valve hose -located behind the fuel filler- can clog with mud if you operate in that environment. Recently happened to me and I got the symptoms of slow filling and the MIL with the code for the evap vent valve circuit fault.

Removed the vent cap and cleaned it and all is well.
 

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