Grady_Wilson
Supporting Member
My 2011 Yukon Denali has no lines in the backup camera, no door courtesy lights, but it does have courtesy lights on the mirrors.
OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.
- Thread starter SpareParts
- Start date
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SpareParts
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From what i can tell, it looks like the PO changed the mirrors out for ones without the paddle lights on the mirrors for some reason.
Every part's diagram i look at shows paddle lights. Just seems odd to me.
Every part's diagram i look at shows paddle lights. Just seems odd to me.
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SpareParts
Full Access Member
Victory Pic 
For the first time since I bought this Yukon about two months ago I have repaired every system that was causing warning lights on the dash.
For the first time since I bought this Yukon about two months ago I have repaired every system that was causing warning lights on the dash.
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SpareParts
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Up in the woods today as far as i dare go by my self with no tools or recovery gear just to get an idea of how this Yukon handles winter stuff.
Seems to do alright for the little i could work it, but there is for sure a need to raise it up a few more inches.
I would imagine with over 200k the stock springs are sagging. Front struts seem to be too stiff. Can't decide if rear is too stiff or about right.
I think i want Bilstein 4600 struts and springs on the front. From previous experience with them, i really like the ride they provide. Probably Moog springs.
No sure about the rear. I want to keep the air shocks on it because i do pull a trailer with a 450LB tongue weight and a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the back, but i don't believe Bilstein makes 4600 air shocks.
Any suggestions on a set of air shocks that have a ride feel like Bilsteins?
Seems to do alright for the little i could work it, but there is for sure a need to raise it up a few more inches.
I would imagine with over 200k the stock springs are sagging. Front struts seem to be too stiff. Can't decide if rear is too stiff or about right.
I think i want Bilstein 4600 struts and springs on the front. From previous experience with them, i really like the ride they provide. Probably Moog springs.
No sure about the rear. I want to keep the air shocks on it because i do pull a trailer with a 450LB tongue weight and a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the back, but i don't believe Bilstein makes 4600 air shocks.
Any suggestions on a set of air shocks that have a ride feel like Bilsteins?
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SpareParts
Full Access Member
Now that i have the new TPSM sensors installed the warning pressure seems to be set to high.
At anything less than 40PSI, the light comes on and tells me to check tire pressure.
I like to run my fronts at 32PSI and rears at 30PSI unloaded. When pulling a trailer and hauling stuff around i do increase the pressure.
Anyone know how to lower the warning threshold pressure to something more reasonable?
At anything less than 40PSI, the light comes on and tells me to check tire pressure.
I like to run my fronts at 32PSI and rears at 30PSI unloaded. When pulling a trailer and hauling stuff around i do increase the pressure.
Anyone know how to lower the warning threshold pressure to something more reasonable?
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SpareParts
Full Access Member
Two days of searching trying to figure out how to adjust it and can't find out how. Make a post and do another search and bang find the answer on here.
Using my Snap on, Solus Pro and digging around in the menu's i was able to adjust tire type and pressure.
Using my Snap on, Solus Pro and digging around in the menu's i was able to adjust tire type and pressure.
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SpareParts
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Since it was 30 degrees out today, foggy and not raining or windy, I thought i would get some tinkering done today.
Had a broken bolt on the DR side sway bar mount and fixed that today finally. Had to drill it out and replace with a nut and bolt. Grade 8 hardware was used.
Looking around at what else i might find i wanted to mess with and started looking at why my rear defroster was not working.
I had already checked the plug behind the head liner and it was all good so i knew that was not the problem.
Found 1 tab that someone had tried repairing with superglue, i think. Anyway, i tugged it a little and it popped right off. Nice found the problem!
Looking for a way to fix it and i ran across a video showing how to solder it back on. SCARY!
After watching another video of a guy showing how much heat the rear glass can take i decided to try it. Figured what the heck. I know where i can get another one for $30 so why not.
After cleaning everything up really good and putting a little solder on the tab, i used a heat gun to heat the glass up till it was warm about 12 inches around the tab mount.
I then held the tab in place and put the solder iron to it. Took about 5 seconds and the solder melted on one side, moved to the other and within seconds the tab was soldered back on. Let it cool for a minute or so and checked it with a DVM and i had continuity between the tab and heater grid.
Started the truck and turned the rear defrost on. After about 10 minutes using an infrared temp sensor i checked it to see if it had a hot spot from not being attached good enough.
The repaired side was more or less 5 degrees hotter at the tab so i believe it is good. If it does not shatter tomorrow on the way to work it will be a success and 0 dollar fix.
Here is the Video.
Had a broken bolt on the DR side sway bar mount and fixed that today finally. Had to drill it out and replace with a nut and bolt. Grade 8 hardware was used.
Looking around at what else i might find i wanted to mess with and started looking at why my rear defroster was not working.
I had already checked the plug behind the head liner and it was all good so i knew that was not the problem.
Found 1 tab that someone had tried repairing with superglue, i think. Anyway, i tugged it a little and it popped right off. Nice found the problem!
Looking for a way to fix it and i ran across a video showing how to solder it back on. SCARY!
After watching another video of a guy showing how much heat the rear glass can take i decided to try it. Figured what the heck. I know where i can get another one for $30 so why not.
After cleaning everything up really good and putting a little solder on the tab, i used a heat gun to heat the glass up till it was warm about 12 inches around the tab mount.
I then held the tab in place and put the solder iron to it. Took about 5 seconds and the solder melted on one side, moved to the other and within seconds the tab was soldered back on. Let it cool for a minute or so and checked it with a DVM and i had continuity between the tab and heater grid.
Started the truck and turned the rear defrost on. After about 10 minutes using an infrared temp sensor i checked it to see if it had a hot spot from not being attached good enough.
The repaired side was more or less 5 degrees hotter at the tab so i believe it is good. If it does not shatter tomorrow on the way to work it will be a success and 0 dollar fix.
Here is the Video.
If that doesn't hold try https://frostfighter.com/
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SpareParts
Full Access Member
It will hold I'm sure.
The only problem i can see is if the contact area is making a partial contact causing a hot spot, in turn causing the rear window to shatter.
I looked at frost fighter and it for sure seems like a viable option.
The only problem i can see is if the contact area is making a partial contact causing a hot spot, in turn causing the rear window to shatter.
I looked at frost fighter and it for sure seems like a viable option.
