P0300 and hesitation going up hills

[Fless]

What numbers are on the old plugs?

 

[Meccanoble]

Any reason I should go for AC Delco 41-162 or am I still ok with 41-110??

 

[Meccanoble]

What numbers are on the old plugs?

41-110

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-4111...ade+by+ACDelco+(8-pack)&qid=1591663111&sr=8-1

 

[Meccanoble]

I havent put 100k miles on the truck yet and definitely waited a while through ownership before I tackled this job due to the dreaded 8 cylinder. Anything that would have caused them to go sooner than usual?

 

[Fless]

I don't think I can speak to that. The iridiums I pulled out of mine at 100K could have gone at least another 60K or so, hardly worn. But I changed them anyway since that's the maintenance interval. All I can think of is that you got knockoffs or somehow the iridium was damaged by improper (rough) gapping. They should come pre-gapped and should be gently "checked" to ensure the right gap, but regapping them can damage the tips.

EDIT: maybe others have thoughts about the wear. As far as which ones to go with, there are currently a couple of active threads going on right now that might help.

 

[Rocket Man]

Any reason I should go for AC Delco 41-162 or am I still ok with 41-110??

41-162 is the update for the 41-110 but either will work. In all honesty, I would get new ACDelco wires too. Anytime you’re pulling them on and off there’s a chance they separate inside the boot, where the metal clip starts to separate from the conductor. I use dielectric grease inside both ends of mine so they come off easier. As far as inspecting them, look inside the boots and see if there’s corrosion or if they look damaged although it’s hard to tell. Also inspect the wire itself for dark spots where they might have heat damage. On the inside the conductor isn’t like normal copper wire that regular wire has, it’s more like a carbon type of conductor and if a wire rests against an exhaust manifold (or header in my case) it might cause high internal resistance that doesn’t look like much on the outside.

 

[Rocket Man]

#8 plus is fairly easy if you put a 5/8” plug socket on, and use a standard depth 3/4” socket to turn the plug socket with, the plug socket will accept that socket. That’s the perfect length to put a ratchet on and turn it. I use a short extension in the plug socket by itself to get the plug started back in and hand tighten as far as possible, then switch back to the 3/4” socket to tighten it.

 

[Fless]

@Meccanoble, you're aware of this socket setup to make #8 relatively easy?
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/8-spark-plug.111876/page-3

 

[Fless]

#8 plus is fairly easy if you put a 5/8” plug socket on, and use a standard depth 3/4” socket to turn the plug socket with, the plug socket will accept that socket. That’s the perfect length to put a ratchet on and turn it. I use a short extension in the plug socket by itself to get the plug started back in and hand tighten as far as possible, then switch back to the 3/4” socket to tighten it.

Get outta my mind!

 

[Rocket Man]

I just took a pic of what I was talking about but @Fless beat me to it!