We don't have a stall on the SSS, just depends on how you are using your vehicle. We will be putting a stall in with the new cam and engine though.
Pickin a cam
- Thread starter Robert.K
- Start date
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I will probably be going with a 2800 stall on the Tahoe,as I don't want anything too loose, I want to maintain the DD driveability.
hyde
Full Access Member
Well they work really well with a tune and headers and pulley. I have dynoed several 5.3's that make around 320-330 to the wheels. They work great with blowers for sure. I worked a 2002 ZO6 with stock cubes and stock cam with 6.0l heads and a vortech, with 14pounds of boost it made 630rwhp on easy tune and in cool weather it made 670rwhp...Mean for a stock cube lil street car.
OP
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Robert.K
Full Access Member
So I get the LSA numbers now, thanks for the info! but now Im curious as to what the other numbers mean. I know the specs on the stock cam, but if the cam Im looking at has higher numbers does that make it better? or lower numbers better? But Im totally tracking on the lsa! I want to be fast out the whole, maybe 0-80 quick. Dont plan on going over 100 cause thats alittle to fast in a truck of this size for me. Still want a blower, and what the hell is a stall? Im guessing it keeps the engine from stalling, but would like to really understand what it is. Really am intrigued by this stuff!
---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
And I also have a goal of 500+ Hp, atleast 400 of it at the wheels. Whats needs so I can make my wish list for santa for the next 3 years!
---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
And I also have a goal of 500+ Hp, atleast 400 of it at the wheels. Whats needs so I can make my wish list for santa for the next 3 years!
hyde
Full Access Member
Robert, making the power and getting it to the ground will cost you roughly 8-10g's if you buy the stuff new. I wouldnt suggest this to anyone but I wanted to test the factory 5.3 engine and back in 2003 I took a stock 5.3 with only a K&N air filter and sprayed it very heavy. I sprayed 35 pounds of Nitrous on a friday night and 35 pounds of Nitrous on a saturday night for over 6 months. I didnt just spray it I really sprayed it. My truck with a K&N made 261 to the rear wheels. When I sprayed it, it made 430rwhp 540trq to the tires. Again I would not suggest it, I was testing. It finally let go and when it did it wasnt nice...But the tranny held up also during this time. If you are going to do a blower buy a set of 6.0L heads to drop compression more. Then a small camshaft or ZO6 camshaft, long tube headers, injectors and pump, tranny and converter 2800-3200 stall speed. Buy a quality converter that is effecient. Next do a rear carrier the G80 wont hold up.(From experience again). Last thing is a blower of your choice and a good tune. Make sure the blower is a bigger one not a stock maggie. You will need a TVS, MP122HH, Vortech, or a single turbo kit. Good luck. Buy as much as you can used and save the money.
Ok the cam stuff...
The first two numbers, 214/220, that is the duration at .050" of lift. Intake is the first number exhaust is the second number. and that duration is exactaly what it sounds like, how long the valve will be open in degrees with a minimum "openess" of .050 inches. Longer duration the more air you can get in and out of the cylinder. But with that duration you get overlap because the number of degrees in a circle is 360* and your open a combined 454* which is where your lsa comes in at say 115* + the lift and I dont have the caculator for this but its not that complicated= valve overlap. Oh I nearly forgot. The duration is typicaly what decides how "big" a cam is.
The second set of numbers .600/.551 is the ammount of lift at the valve. Which is very important. Too much lift means your valve will touch your piston ever so gently and ka-fing-boom. The lift listed is always for what ever motor, its built for, with the rocker ratio added in, ie we have 1.7 rockers stock, so if one were to get 1.8 ratio rockers, (not a good idea for cam guys cause the ramp rates of the cam lobes will jack your pushrods) you would do some math to find a total lift of .635 on the intake. Again its hard to explain each part of the cam separately because it all ties together to make power.
Then you get into the LSA, which was already cover, so onto that mysterious +2 or minus what ever on the end of some cam specs. If no number is listed the maker has added no timing to the cam, or taken any away. If there is a +2 (like the old man cam) that means there is 2* ground in, so if one were to pick up this cam make sure the tuner knows about the extra two degrees or your gonna get some knock.
---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------
400hp at the wheels.
Cam, tune, stall (wont get you any power but will make it feel faster) P/P throtle body, intake, headers + full exhaust, ditch anthing over a 20" rim (they rob gobs of power), e-fans. That should put you close, if not pick up some good heads, and your sure to go over with out the blower. Add the blower to the mix you could hit 600+
hyde
Full Access Member
Cam, tune, stall (wont get you any power but will make it feel faster) P/P throtle body, intake, headers + full exhaust, ditch anthing over a 20" rim (they rob gobs of power), e-fans. That should put you close, if not pick up some good heads, and your sure to go over with out the blower. Add the blower to the mix you could hit 600+[/QUOTE]
I believe until you are making big power from cubes and or compression a P/P throttle body is a waste of money. Intake is a waiste also if you are doing a blower. So if you are really going to do a blower dont waiste the money on these two things. My thoughts
I believe until you are making big power from cubes and or compression a P/P throttle body is a waste of money. Intake is a waiste also if you are doing a blower. So if you are really going to do a blower dont waiste the money on these two things. My thoughts
How can you say that, most intakes (cold air not intake manifold) will work with a blower, and, I for one know, for a fact by personal experience, that p/p on the TB does make a difference. Your whole motor is nothing more than an air pump. The more air you get in, the more air you get out, the more power you make. Not to mention, adding an intake ontop of the blower will only help the blower, the less the blower has to work to pull air in the more air it will move. More air + more fuel = more power
