Purchased a 2007 Yukon XL, now to make it reliable!

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OR VietVet

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Working on the front brakes. First one is done. I had to drill out the rusted rotor screw. Couldn’t get it out even with the hammer punch and ultimately ended up stripping it.

New rotors didn’t have new screws. So my question is, best place to get new ones? And is it drivable without them?
Yes, it is driveable without them. The lug nuts hold it all together. The screws are there so that when the truck is built at the factory, as the frame has components hung on it, the screws hold the rotor flat to allow for quicker install of other brake components and sometimes the frame is flipped over during all that process.
 

89Suburban

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Working on the front brakes. First one is done. I had to drill out the rusted rotor screw. Couldn’t get it out even with the hammer punch and ultimately ended up stripping it.

New rotors didn’t have new screws. So my question is, best place to get new ones? And is it drivable without them?
Those rotor screws are all BULL-CHIT. TOSS EM.
 

jdwood1111

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I had finished up the front brakes yesterday. Nothing too crazy today, just swapping out the AC tension pully and the two drive belts.

I started to track everything I was doing along with costs and parts. Feel free to browse here, it's a public page now!

What brand did you go with? One of my rotors was already missing the screw when I did mine. I used centric premium and glazed them while bedding them in and could not get rid of the squeal. Switched to Wagner high performance truck pads and I have to say, the centrics stopped better unfortunately.
 

Geotrash

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I had finished up the front brakes yesterday. Nothing too crazy today, just swapping out the AC tension pully and the two drive belts.

I started to track everything I was doing along with costs and parts. Feel free to browse here, it's a public page now!

My humble advice: Get rid of the A/C belt tensioner altogether and put a stretch belt on there from the later model years. The A/C belt from a 2012 YXL Denali will work great. There’s a reason GM went to a stretch belt. Several of us have had the conventional tensioner arrangement start throwing the AC belt at higher mileage, despite replacing the tensioner and pulleys.
 

j91z28d1

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What brand did you go with? One of my rotors was already missing the screw when I did mine. I used centric premium and glazed them while bedding them in and could not get rid of the squeal. Switched to Wagner high performance truck pads and I have to say, the centrics stopped better unfortunately.


was the squeal from the rear brakes?
 
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YukonGold12

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What brand did you go with? One of my rotors was already missing the screw when I did mine. I used centric premium and glazed them while bedding them in and could not get rid of the squeal. Switched to Wagner high performance truck pads and I have to say, the centrics stopped better unfortunately.
Powerstop kit for fronts and backs. I’ve put these on my Subarus and Xterras in the past and have had no problems.
 
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YukonGold12

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My humble advice: Get rid of the A/C belt tensioner altogether and put a stretch belt on there from the later model years. The A/C belt from a 2012 YXL Denali will work great. There’s a reason GM went to a stretch belt. Several of us have had the conventional tensioner arrangement start throwing the AC belt at higher mileage, despite replacing the tensioner and pulleys.
Yes! I’ve heard this elsewhere as well and on this thread. I want to go that route but had the pulley already in hand and it was simple to swap over. I will plan on this.
 

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