Question About Idler Arm

[DadsToy]

I just did this job myself. Check out my build thread. The idler arm bracket and the Pittman arm that does with it is 2 separate parts. You can source those from Rock Auto. I think I paid around $9-$14 for my parts each. Cheap. Takes about 1hour to do the idler arm. Uses a 21mm wrench and socket. You'll need a BAH to knock out the arm from the center link. Or you can use a ball joint removal tool. Trick is to remove the bolts from the bracket first. And pull the bracket out of the hold frame mount. Once it is free you release the tension on the joint that is connected to the center link. Making it easier to knock out the center link joint. Put the car up on ramps, remove the rock guard under the car. You will be able to access it from under the car. Easy...after reading how much you all got quoted to do this repair. I am glad I did it myself. Was easy and I save a truck load of money.

 

[MassHoe04]

One question from earlier might not have been spelled out clear enough, so I'll give another go.

When shop says "Idler Control Arm is bad"... Is it the arm that attaches to the spindle that is shot? Meaning the joint that attaches to the center link...

Is there any liklihood that the rest of the Idler Control Arm Assembly is bad too? Meaning the entire assembly that bolts to the frame + the arm that attaches to it also.

I don't know enough about exactly what part would be worn and whether I should just look at getting the entire assembly. I wouldn't want to slap a new arm on the end of the shaft, if some other part of the assembly is also worn out.

Although, I was thinking it might be simper and easier to unbolt and replace the entire assembly, if the arm was going to possibly be a PITA to remove.

Did I clarify or confuse even more?

Replace just the arm or the entire assembly?

Advice is appreciated.

 

[Alex_M]

$800 is way high. I'd be charging probably $65 for the part (a guess, maybe more maybe less, but close) and then an hour or so labor. I'd do idler arm/pittman arm together, and an alignment is not necessary if only replacing idler/pittman arm. Not a bad idea, but not necessary.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I just had both the pitman and idler arm assy. replaced. I tried to do it myself but was not able to get the joints apart. I had both replaced and I supplied the parts. The parts were the best I could find but probably made offshore, maybe they all are at this point.
I would replace the pitman at the same time. For both $800 is not that bad. I think it is a bit much for just the idler assy.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

If you can get a e.g. large vice grip on the center link and push the vice grip front and back to twist the center link you might notice some movement. IMO - that's wear you don't want. Again I recommend replace both and in the future put some grease in every few years.

 

[DadsToy]

One question from earlier might not have been spelled out clear enough, so I'll give another go.

When shop says "Idler Control Arm is bad"... Is it the arm that attaches to the spindle that is shot? Meaning the joint that attaches to the center link...

Is there any liklihood that the rest of the Idler Control Arm Assembly is bad too? Meaning the entire assembly that bolts to the frame + the arm that attaches to it also.

I don't know enough about exactly what part would be worn and whether I should just look at getting the entire assembly. I wouldn't want to slap a new arm on the end of the shaft, if some other part of the assembly is also worn out.

Although, I was thinking it might be simper and easier to unbolt and replace the entire assembly, if the arm was going to possibly be a PITA to remove.

Did I clarify or confuse even more?

Replace just the arm or the entire assembly?

Advice is appreciated.

The pitman arm is attached to the steering box. You won't be able to get it off!! I've tired on two different units and could not get it off without damaging the steering box. A big hammer, heat and proper tool I couldn't get it off. Big pain in the rear. It is a tapered fit arm. The idle arm you can get off easy. If you replace the arm you should replace the bracket it attaches to. The center link should be fine. Unless the mounting hole for the bushing is oblong wore out. If it is then you need to replace the outer tie rods, center link and the idle arm. Google search front suspensions and you'll run across images of each part in question.

 

[MassHoe04]

The pitman arm is attached to the steering box. You won't be able to get it off!! I've tired on two different units and could not get it off without damaging the steering box. A big hammer, heat and proper tool I couldn't get it off. Big pain in the rear. It is a tapered fit arm. The idle arm you can get off easy. If you replace the arm you should replace the bracket it attaches to. The center link should be fine. Unless the mounting hole for the bushing is oblong wore out. If it is then you need to replace the outer tie rods, center link and the idle arm. Google search front suspensions and you'll run across images of each part in question.

OK.

Thanks.

I know what the parts are and where. I wasn't sure if the spindle that the Idler Control arm attaches to wears inside the assembly that bolts to the frame or if it was mostly just the arm itself that wears out.

I think for $120, I'll replace the entire idler control arm assembly (sometime) rather than just the arm. That way I can just unbolt from the frame and pop it off the center link and drop the new one in.

Thanks for the consult!

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

In my experience the part that wears out is the rotational pivot that sort of looks like a ball joint. The pitman and idler arm have one each. If these "pivots" have any movement other than rotation you will get some slop in the steering. It could be that one wears faster than the other, I don't know about that. If you can confirm one is "tight" then I guess leave that one in.

 

[OR VietVet]

Soak the pitman arm with penetrant 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days, and use a pitman arm puller. I lived in a salt on roads state and did it all the time. This is all being made to be harder than it is.

 

[Doubeleive]

I had to do the wife's 05 at around 165k it was actually kind of scary to drive, it had several inches of drift either way
bought the trq kit off amazon $340, and factory idler which comes with the arm, so that was about another $100
then I found a super clean steering box at the junkyard that was clearly stamped "rebuilt" for like $50 I think
had a shop do all the labor (it's a lot) and the alignment for $1800 cash
drives like brand new now, major difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741TYW4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1