I thought people liked the large size colonoscopy cameras. “Doc, is that all you got? Give it to me!”
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I thought people liked the large size colonoscopy cameras. “Doc, is that all you got? Give it to me!”
Yall Oregon boys wild
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randeez
Full Access Member
for me with the thicker wire, low enough voltage so it didnt want to blow right thru meant the material would just blob up and not lay flat
the little bit of .030 i did last night didnt come out too bad
the little bit of .030 i did last night didnt come out too bad
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Less heat to melt the wire. Less potential for blow through
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
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randeez
Full Access Member
we didnt know you
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
There are no strangers amongst car guys
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
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randeez
Full Access Member
i ordered some more small stainless wire, need to weld on o2 bungs - probably directly onto the headers. trying to keep it so i can remove the exhaust real easy and get to everything in the front of the engine.
and when i suck it up and order some 5" bends i can start working on that, it needs a bung for wideband also. i think i can just about make it with 2 - 45s.
a little pet project i want to get working on is closing up where the turbo sits in that opening. i grabbed some aluminum to build a barrier, and im thinking about grabbing a "velocity stack" (not a true one but similar, and all i can find) to pretty much line up with the turbo - IE it will stay on the core support and i can remove the turbo from behind it. the turbo inlet is 5.5" i was going to order a 6". and the turbo is set back behind the core support so the depth should line up about with the front of the core support
and when i suck it up and order some 5" bends i can start working on that, it needs a bung for wideband also. i think i can just about make it with 2 - 45s.
a little pet project i want to get working on is closing up where the turbo sits in that opening. i grabbed some aluminum to build a barrier, and im thinking about grabbing a "velocity stack" (not a true one but similar, and all i can find) to pretty much line up with the turbo - IE it will stay on the core support and i can remove the turbo from behind it. the turbo inlet is 5.5" i was going to order a 6". and the turbo is set back behind the core support so the depth should line up about with the front of the core support
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randeez
Full Access Member
Ordered a couple 5" stainless bends and a little bit of straight pipe to get down pipe figured out- Ordered the flange for the turbo a few weeks ago. Summit order for some 5/8 tubing to run turbo drain, and a few other things.
In the mean time....need to get the bangbus cleaned up and road worthy again. The drivers door handle was froze up and messed up, tore it apart and soaked the latchy spring thing and it came back to life, I ordered another one off ebay so I'll keep it around as a spare.
Rockauto order for some maintenance stuff...air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, and the main reason it was parked was cause the glow plug controller stayed lit up the entire time and would drain the bigass battery (even a brand new one) over night. So I ordered a new controller - at the time all I could get was the oem that was ~$500 bux, aftermarket now available for 150.
2010 MB sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel 170 wheel base
Very similar to the dodge sprinter mechanically.except the electronics and control systems are all modules can bussed together n crap. Sucks to work on
In the mean time....need to get the bangbus cleaned up and road worthy again. The drivers door handle was froze up and messed up, tore it apart and soaked the latchy spring thing and it came back to life, I ordered another one off ebay so I'll keep it around as a spare.
Rockauto order for some maintenance stuff...air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, and the main reason it was parked was cause the glow plug controller stayed lit up the entire time and would drain the bigass battery (even a brand new one) over night. So I ordered a new controller - at the time all I could get was the oem that was ~$500 bux, aftermarket now available for 150.
2010 MB sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel 170 wheel base
Very similar to the dodge sprinter mechanically.except the electronics and control systems are all modules can bussed together n crap. Sucks to work on
