Replacing lower intake gaskset

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raptorforme93

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As some of you may know, it has been determined that my lower intake gasket has gone bad and needs to be replaced. My truck will be towed home from where I live at FSU 3 hours north. Over the Christmas break I will be replacing the gasket in the garage. This is my first time digging into this engine and I was wondering what all I am going to need to do this job? I know that a lot of people have done this and a little imput is appreciated! I want to be ready to fix the hoe when I get home! Am I going to need any special tools? Will this be a good time to replace some other commonly worn out parts? Any other fluids I should change besides the oil and coolant while im at it? I want to be as prepared as I can be before I start the project around Dec. 22nd I think. I will also be taking pics of the whole thing for everyone!! Thank you :)
 

ezdaar

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its gravy work bud.
Only diffacult part you may have is re timing the engine. but thats easy aswell.
I can walk you through the entire procedure if you want.
 

07Burb

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How did you determine it was for sure this and not head gasket?
 

ChrisAU

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Get a razor scraper. Also figure out a way to keep the manifold bolts organized; for me, I drew out the bolt pattern on a piece of paper and numbered them, then gave each bolt its own numbered baggy.
 

willxfs

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Maybe valve cover gaskets while you have everything on top apart.
 

ChrisAU

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Oh and here is a biggie, tap the holes in the block and run the bolts through a die (the proper sizes of course), this cleans and sharpens the threads so you can get a proper torque reading when you are putting it back together. It doesn't take a long and its easy, on my '92 I was able to turn the bolts through the die by hand, and once I got the tap started in the holes in the block I just used an adjustable wrench to turn it. If you have a lot of resistance to your tap on the holes in the block, stop. You do NOT want to cross the threads of those holes with the tap.
 
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raptorforme93

raptorforme93

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@07burb: Based on what everyone said and how much more common it is for the lower intake gasket to go out. My truck still runs perfectly with no noticable difference in sound, idle, starting, and whatnot. But I have no definite proof I guess. Doesnt all this stuff have to be taken off and apart if it is a head gasket anyways?

Ok thanks for the note on bolts. I will make sure to keep them organized well and ill take a look at the bolts from the block and the holes to see about retapping them. That would be a good idea if done right. Haha. One other thing, over the last few months, my hoe has slowly but surely developed a slight tick that is coming from the driver side of the block it sounds like. Basically I just want to reassure that the valves are within spec clearances. I figured that this would be a good time to do this? I am only really familiar with adjusting valves on race fourwheeler engines...
 

992dr

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Is it leaking any fluids? Oil or coolant?
Mine started leaking coolant, not only did it leave stains everywhere I parked, it also could be trasted to the exact spot from the coolant stain on the block.

While you're in there you should replace your spider assembly with this replacement assembly. http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FJ10566-Fuel-Injector/dp/B000TYLIFS?tag=vig-20
You should consider using Felpro gaskets, only the best for our Hoes ;)
Also give the RTV the respected amount of time to set before putting the manifold back on OR you could be doing this all over again.
Another way of keeping track of nuts,bolts, studs is by taking some pictures of how and where each nut, bolt, stud goes. Some have one and some have two nuts some have brackets some dont. It would also help with your a/c lines. I effed up and its driving me nuts. But I have to go back and replace my spider assembly so I'll fix that when I do it again.
 

ezdaar

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Baggies are a no go, Chemicals on the bolts and your hands will eat up the baggies.
Use the cardboard from your gasket kit, draw the bolt pattern on it, punch holes where bolts go with Phillips screwdriver and mashem through.
If needed write on the CB what that bolt set is for and a arrow showing front of engine. They wont fall out and there's NO guess work as top where they go and a big ass piece of cardboard is not easily lost.

always remember this tip. Every bolt regardless of its length when inserted into the holes BEFORE threading, will all stick out equally. If one sticks out farther then the rest its in the wrong spot OR there's a bracket that goes under it that's missing.

Dont waste time tapping the holes, unless a bolt comes out RUSTY and all nasty looking. Just clean them out with B-12 and air compressor dry them.
Wire brush or wheel your bolts reapply RTV and your good. no need to replace them, they are under no significant stress.
 
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