Right/rear window, rolled up & now unresponsive

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mikez71

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When you tested for power up and down at the rear door plug, I am guessing your helper was hitting the driver switch while testing?
When I look at the diagram, it looks like the rear window switch should still work even if the BCM does not signal on 'A' or 'C'
assuming you have power on terminal 'D' (from BCM also), which is dedicated power for the rear window switch (unless window lockout is enabled).

*IF* you were getting power to terminal 'A' WITHOUT hitting the driver switch, then the BCM or driver switch is stuck trying to go up all the time which might also explain why it can't go down.

In your photo it looks like you are testing terminal 'H' which would never have power with the plug disconnected because it goes straight to the motor. (same with 'E')

You also mentioned a little electrical blackout. Maybe try disconnecting the battery to reset electronics?
 
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Hello MikeZ71. Yeah, I did both.
I did try unplugging the battery. But for a very short time. I only tried the A and H ones. Terminal A only lit up my test light when the window switch was pressed to go down.
I need to stare at the schematics some more.

Hey, do you know anything about BCM's? Hey, do you know anything about BCM's? If it does end up being the BCM, and I am having this issue, can a reprogramming of the one in there help? Or would I need to buy a new one?

Thank you for helping MikeZ71!
 

Doubeleive

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Hello MikeZ71. Yeah, I did both.
I did try unplugging the battery. But for a very short time. I only tried the A and H ones. Terminal A only lit up my test light when the window switch was pressed to go down.
I need to stare at the schematics some more.

Hey, do you know anything about BCM's? Hey, do you know anything about BCM's? If it does end up being the BCM, and I am having this issue, can a reprogramming of the one in there help? Or would I need to buy a new one?

Thank you for helping MikeZ71!
I would try a master door switch before dooming the bcm, for the rear switch you can swap left & right to test on eaither side, the only difference is the top trim piece
these master door switches have there own little chip in them if there was a bcm issue I think you would have other problems as well beside just 1 window not going down.
order a used switch off ebay if it is not the problem you can just return it.
 

mikez71

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I need to stare at the schematics some more.
I know the feeling! I look at it a bit and my eyes hurt, come back again and it's a little bit clearer.

BEFORE you worry about the BCM, I would test terminal 'C' as well. If you get power there (when pushing driver switch down), BCM is not your problem!

Check 'F' (BLK ground)
Check 'G' (RED/WH power to relays from circuit breaker)

If you got some short test wires...
Connecting G (red/white) to H (brown wire), and F (blk) to E (dark blue) should move your window down.
G to E, and F to H should move window up.

If that works, then the rear switch should be your culprit.
If that DOES NOT work, you have a power/ground wiring or motor issue.
I believe rear switch is most likely as it contains the relays that the BCM (therefore driver switch) also use to power your windows.

You mention the backlighting doesn't work? (might need lights on?)
Because the backlight gets power from 'B' and uses the same ground 'F'
 
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Thank you Doubleive and MikeZ71.
Okay, tomorrow (I think) I shall:
1. Swap the rear switches to see if anything happens (easy to do)
2. MikeZ71, that would be great if it is not the BCM. So I will test terminal C, then G. if not luck:
3. Try connecting "G (red/white) to H (brown wire), and F (blk) to E (dark blue) should move your window down.
G to E, and F to H should move window up."


Thank you again guys.
 

89Suburban

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these master door switches have there own little chip in them if there was a bcm issue I think you would have other problems as well beside just 1 window not going down.
order a used switch off ebay if it is not the problem you can just return it.
If going new, you will need to have the master door switch programmed to match your vehicle's options. If you were able to find a used one at a junk yard from a vehicle with the same options as your vehicle, you would not need any programming. I was able to find a used on Ebay for mine that matched my options and it worked fine.
 
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If going new, you will need to have the master door switch programmed to match your vehicle's options. If you were able to find a used one at a junk yard from a vehicle with the same options as your vehicle, you would not need any programming. I was able to find a used on Ebay for mine that matched my options and it work

Oh man, a chip in the driver's switch needs programming? What the heck!

Thank you.
 

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