The KidWagon

[KidWgn]

I knew you had pics! You called my bluff. Good job! Daytona jack FTW. Homer bucket FTW. Damn that thing is clean. Now the rotors REALLY look like chit. >wink<

That’s why I paid what I did for this one. It’s SUPER clean. I actually just took those pics when I posted them, just for you

I freakin love this low-profile long-reach. Worth every penny.

That, sir, is a Harbor Freight bucket

I KNOW, OKAY

 

[KidWgn]

can you spin the top bar without hitting the frame?
and gives more clearance on inside for the wheel

I take back my previous reply.

I can……with the axle dropped 8”

I absolutely would not be able to adjust them in the current configuration, with the truck on a drive-on rack.

 

[Doug118]

I believe you, but why does it matter?

I’m late to the reply but for purposes already stated. I always thought it was just for wheel clearance. Didn’t know about not being able to adjust them

 

[randeez]

I’m late to the reply but for purposes already stated. I always thought it was just for wheel clearance. Didn’t know about not being able to adjust them

i dont think i really spun the entire bar either tbh, but i back that heim joint out a few turns so i wasnt making all of the adjustment with the threaded rod coupler side

 

[89Suburban]

That’s why I paid what I did for this one. It’s SUPER clean. I actually just took those pics when I posted them, just for you

I freakin love this low-profile long-reach. Worth every penny.

That, sir, is a Harbor Freight bucket

I KNOW, OKAY

Well you did right attacking the driver's side "free travel mod" first. That's the worst side, other side should be easier from what I have read.

 

[KidWgn]

Well you did right attacking the driver's side "free travel mod" first. That's the worst side, other side should be easier from what I have read.

The driver side was exponentially more difficult than the passenger side, because of the damn gas tank. I got around it by using a 40” pry bar and a 7” cutoff disk, but it was still a bear trying to not cut into the tank. I still nicked it with the cutoff wheel, you can probably see it if you zoom in.

 

[KidWgn]

i dont think i really spun the entire bar either tbh, but i back that heim joint out a few turns so i wasnt making all of the adjustment with the threaded rod coupler side

I did the same; I adjusted it so that each section was in its “middle” when seated currently. I’ll finish adjusting tomorrow, and I have another alignment scheduled for Tuesday morning for the front control arms.

 

[iamdub]

The driver side was exponentially more difficult than the passenger side, because of the damn gas tank. I got around it by using a 40” pry bar and a 7” cutoff disk, but it was still a bear trying to not cut into the tank. I still nicked it with the cutoff wheel, you can probably see it if you zoom in.

This is mostly how I did mine. 4" death disc on the outer wall and front and back side walls. Then a recip saw reaching through the front cut slot to cut the back wall as far as I could go. Then pried it down with a wrecking bar to score the back wall from the inside-out. Worked it back and forth a few times to break it off. Cleaned it with a flap disc.

 

[KidWgn]

This is mostly how I did mine. 4" death disc on the outer wall and front and back side walls. Then a recip saw reaching through the front cut slot to cut the back wall as far as I could go. Then pried it down with a wrecking bar to score the back wall from the inside-out. Worked it back and forth a few times to break it off. Cleaned it with a flap disc.

Yup! 4” diamond cutting wheel for the outboard and sides, then sliced it up the middle. Used a 40” pry bar to pull the whole thing down then switched to a 7” diamond cutting wheel and let ‘er eat!

 

[KidWgn]

Well you did right attacking the driver's side "free travel mod" first. That's the worst side, other side should be easier from what I have read.

Here I was in the middle of cutting. You can see where I chopped it up the center to allow it to bend downward.