Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[bobby2175]

I'm going to take a little different stance on the water pump. You already have the coolant out of the system and everything else out of the way, so why not just change it and eliminate it from the list of things that will get you stuck somewhere? It's an easy job and you can buy one with the thermostat housing and thermostat already installed. It might add 15 minutes to the job you're already doing.

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

 

[ctd01]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4NRY8

 

[ctd01]

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

No good water pump is $100. I would spend a little more and get an acdelco. Do not use any dorman parts during this pretrip. Try and stick with or if possible.

 

[swathdiver]

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Pull the lower hose and let it drain out. Refill with distilled water, drive it around the block and drain it again. Repeat until the water comes out clear. Then refill with 50/50 dexcool. Drive it again and top it off as needed. Last time we did it, we added 3 quarts, 3 separate times to top it off.

 

[bobby2175]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4N

I'm going to take a little different stance on the water pump. You already have the coolant out of the system and everything else out of the way, so why not just change it and eliminate it from the list of things that will get you stuck somewhere? It's an easy job and you can buy one with the thermostat housing and thermostat already installed. It might add 15 minutes to the job you're already doing.

Ok, is this the right video to follow?

This doesn't seem too difficult, but where I was a little uncomfortable was how to remove and reinstall the belt - is this the right process - 15 mm wrench on the adjuater to put some slack on the belt and remove it?

 

[bobby2175]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4NRY8

Great information! I'm going to likely have questions as I work through all of this! Thank you!

 

[bobby2175]

Pull the lower hose and let it drain out. Refill with distilled water, drive it around the block and drain it again. Repeat until the water comes out clear. Then refill with 50/50 dexcool. Drive it again and top it off as needed. Last time we did it, we added 3 quarts, 3 separate times to top it off.

Thanks for being so clear on this!

 

[Geotrash]

Ok, is this the right video to follow?

This doesn't seem too difficult, but where I was a little uncomfortable was how to remove and reinstall the belt - is this the right process - 15 mm wrench on the adjuater to put some slack on the belt and remove it?

That's the one!

 

[Geotrash]

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

Rock Auto has the AC Delco pump cheap, but I have also used Gates, Dayco and Melling water pumps in the past with great results. Melling is one of the OEM suppliers of pumps to GM. Remember to buy the thermostat if your pump doesn't come with one. Replacing the thermostat housing at the same time can also help prevent leaks, and many thermostats and pumps come with a new housing for that reason.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Everyone has their own approach that works for them, so I can only share what I do that works well for me. I don't worry so much about getting every drop of coolant out of the system. 95%+ of the old stuff drains out the moment you remove the lower radiator hose. So when I'm done closing everything up after repairs, I simply refill the system through the recovery tank with 50/50 dexcool premix, leave the cap off, start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature, adding coolant premix as needed to keep the tank from going empty. Once the engine is up to temp, I shut it off and refill the tank to the full line, then put the cap back on and take it for a drive. Then let it cool and add coolant back to the full line. Then I check it every day for a few days before I start it in the morning, adding coolant as needed. When I do it this way, I very seldom have to add any coolant after the first drive cycle, and even then it's only a few ounces. I've done this probably 10 times on my Yukons after various modifications and repairs, with no problems.

 

[bobby2175]

That's the one!

Thank you! Should I also be replacing the radiator hose at the same time or just stick with the hoses that go up to the heater core?