Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[Doubeleive]

Yes, original transmission and I replaced the battery at the end of 2021.

Do I need to think about anything on the transmission?

That's a great list - any of those fluid flushes things I can handle myself? I was looking at the belts the other day when I was working on electrical stuff and wondering if I could do it, but it looked pretty complicated.

With some basic tools yes

 

[bobby2175]

What all was done at the 100K service? If the plugs were done, I wouldn't worry with those with only 80K on 'em. The OEM-spec platinum (or iridium, if used) can easily go twice that long. I'd definitely look at the "soft" parts Wes listed out. Don't overlook the simple basics such as tire pressures. Check the pressure of the spare and its condition. The spare is all too often forgotten about.

When the 100K service was done, plugs and wires were replaced.

Great idea on the spare - I didn't even think of that!

 

[bobby2175]

Bobby, I've been doing the same thing. Getting my 2009 Yukon XL with 191K ready for a trip from Florida to Monument Valley and back.

Your number 3 and 4 is probably because your driver's side engine mount is broken. They are fluid filled and only last so long under the power of that glorious 6.2.

If you have external engine oil cooler and transmission coolers, make sure the lines are not leaking. Sweating and weeping is ok, leaking is bad. Engine oil cooler would be lines going into driver's side tank on the radiator.

Fresh fluids will make the truck more efficient. Your "To Do" list can get out of hand and you can still have an alternator fail or radiator tank crack so don't worry about much under the hood if she's running well. In our case, we have enough set aside to leave the truck at a shop for a transmission overhaul while we rent another Yukon XL and continue on with our trip if necessary.

I did replace my heater hoses and Ts, even bought the tool to remove them but discovered it was not necessary with a firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method. Popped right off.

Unlike you, I'll be using washer fluid that won't freeze and made sure my coolant mixture can handle freezing weather!

What part of Florida are you headed for?

We're actually headed to the Orlando area and then jumping onto a cruise! How about you?

 

[bobby2175]

Thanks, everyone for the great advice! I just went and picked up the heater hoses and the Ts to get those done and I'll get through the list of things here. I may come back with more questions and how to do questions.

 

[Doubeleive]

i mentioned plugs and wires because you noted some rough idle or "shake" which could be related but cleaning the intake and replacing the plugs may help smooth out the idle and might also give a pinch more fuel economy. I would also throw in some fuel injector cleaner for the foreseeable future, some at each of the next 4-5 tank fulls at least or have a injector service done. as james mentioned could be the motor mounts also but if you do not regularly clean the intake and/or fuel injector cleaner then you might be surprised how much difference it can make.

 

[bobby2175]

I have not regularly cleaned the intake or throttle body - it's probably been about 80K-100K miles. You mentioned clean MAF before - what was this?

Also, is fuel injector cleaner the best way (meaning will accomplish the job and not damage anything) or is one of the induction cleaning services like offered at the dealer better? I actually have some older bottles of injector cleaner I can use as long as they don't degrade after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is the process for those to put injector cleaner in (I'm assuming would need 2 bottles) while filling tank, let the tank run until low and then repeat, or do I run it low, then add the bottle and when I get really low, add a little fuel and then another bottle?

 

[bobby2175]

What all was done at the 100K service? If the plugs were done, I wouldn't worry with those with only 80K on 'em. The OEM-spec platinum (or iridium, if used) can easily go twice that long. I'd definitely look at the "soft" parts Wes listed out. Don't overlook the simple basics such as tire pressures. Check the pressure of the spare and its condition. The spare is all too often forgotten about.

Question on the spare - it's located under the vehicle - it's been exposed to the elements since it was new 13 years ago, should I assume that it's degraded/rotted to the point of needing to just be replaced? I also have to figure out how to get it down as well but I'm sure I can find info online.

 

[bobby2175]

Bobby, I've been doing the same thing. Getting my 2009 Yukon XL with 191K ready for a trip from Florida to Monument Valley and back.

Your number 3 and 4 is probably because your driver's side engine mount is broken. They are fluid filled and only last so long under the power of that glorious 6.2.

If you have external engine oil cooler and transmission coolers, make sure the lines are not leaking. Sweating and weeping is ok, leaking is bad. Engine oil cooler would be lines going into driver's side tank on the radiator.

Fresh fluids will make the truck more efficient. Your "To Do" list can get out of hand and you can still have an alternator fail or radiator tank crack so don't worry about much under the hood if she's running well. In our case, we have enough set aside to leave the truck at a shop for a transmission overhaul while we rent another Yukon XL and continue on with our trip if necessary.

I did replace my heater hoses and Ts, even bought the tool to remove them but discovered it was not necessary with a firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method. Popped right off.

Unlike you, I'll be using washer fluid that won't freeze and made sure my coolant mixture can handle freezing weather!

What part of Florida are you headed for?

You mentioned "firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method" when pulling the Ts off. Can you elaborate on this?

Is there a good way to diagnose a failed engine mount?

 

[swathdiver]

We're actually headed to the Orlando area and then jumping onto a cruise! How about you?

Cruising out of Port Canaveral is nice, did that earlier this year. We live about 90 minutes south of there in Port Saint Lucie. Since I just survived a Saddle PE, Monument Valley will have to wait but we're still going to Texas.

I have not regularly cleaned the intake or throttle body - it's probably been about 80K-100K miles. You mentioned clean MAF before - what was this?

Also, is fuel injector cleaner the best way (meaning will accomplish the job and not damage anything) or is one of the induction cleaning services like offered at the dealer better? I actually have some older bottles of injector cleaner I can use as long as they don't degrade after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is the process for those to put injector cleaner in while filling tank, let the tank run until low and then repeat?

The easiest way to clean the injectors is to run the truck on E85 for 5-6 tanks of fuel. Only do this with factory oxygen sensors with less than 100K miles on them. Otherwise it may mess up your alcohol content and lead to driveability issues until the proper scan tool can get everything back in order.

Question on the spare - it's located under the vehicle - it's been exposed to the elements since it was new 13 years ago, should I assume that it's degraded/rotted to the point of needing to just be replaced? I also have to figure out how to get it down as well but I'm sure I can find info online.

The tire will be fine unless it was struck by something. It's the wheel and corrosion you have to be careful of. When was the last time you ran the hoist up and down? We do ours twice a year, Independence Day and New Year's Day and thankfully have never had to use it. If the hoist is rotted out, well then the condition of the tire doesn't matter!

You mentioned "firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method" when pulling the Ts off. Can you elaborate on this?

Is there a good way to diagnose a failed engine mount?

You push towards the firewall on the hose and pinch the white locking tabs on both sides, might need to wiggle a little, then pull straight back and off the heater core. Disconnect the hoses to the water pump so you can rotate them when disconnecting the lines that run to the rear heater core. Tons of videos on youtube. Many find it easier to remove the hoses from the Ts to the water pump and then remove the Ts from the heater core.

Your description of how the car runs in 3 and 4 are signs of a failed mount. You may also see fluid stains on the rubber where it leaked out. The most definite test is to have someone power-brake the engine (hold brakes and rev the motor up while in gear) while another watches whether the engine rises or not. A little movement is normal, more than an inch it's time for replacement. Lots of threads on here on how to do them. I put solid mounts on one of my pickups and kept fluid filled mounts for my wagon.

 

[bobby2175]

Cruising out of Port Canaveral is nice, did that earlier this year. We live about 90 minutes south of there in Port Saint Lucie. Since I just survived a Saddle PE, Monument Valley will have to wait but we're still going to Texas.



The easiest way to clean the injectors is to run the truck on E85 for 5-6 tanks of fuel. Only do this with factory oxygen sensors with less than 100K miles on them. Otherwise it may mess up your alcohol content and lead to driveability issues until the proper scan tool can get everything back in order.



The tire will be fine unless it was struck by something. It's the wheel and corrosion you have to be careful of. When was the last time you ran the hoist up and down? We do ours twice a year, Independence Day and New Year's Day and thankfully have never had to use it. If the hoist is rotted out, well then the condition of the tire doesn't matter!



You push towards the firewall on the hose and pinch the white locking tabs on both sides, might need to wiggle a little, then pull straight back and off the heater core. Disconnect the hoses to the water pump so you can rotate them when disconnecting the lines that run to the rear heater core. Tons of videos on youtube. Many find it easier to remove the hoses from the Ts to the water pump and then remove the Ts from the heater core.

Your description of how the car runs in 3 and 4 are signs of a failed mount. You may also see fluid stains on the rubber where it leaked out. The most definite test is to have someone power-brake the engine (hold brakes and rev the motor up while in gear) while another watches whether the engine rises or not. A little movement is normal, more than an inch it's time for replacement. Lots of threads on here on how to do them. I put solid mounts on one of my pickups and kept fluid filled mounts for my wagon.

Thanks for all of this info!

So, I don't remember O2 sensor changes yet - I believe they are original and now with 180K miles, should I avoid the E85?

Had no idea there was a hoist for the spare...now you can see the extent of my knowledge...but I'm learning!

I'll try the brake test this weekend to check the mount.