Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[Geotrash]

As I'm thinking through all of this, should I be concerned at all about changing the trans fluid? If memory serves me right, I've probably done 1-2 trans flushes along the way. Now that I've learned the actual service vs flush is the right way to go, should I be ok on this? There are no issues with the transmission at all today.

Second question - I read that some people are using the engine mounts from the Hummer. Is this a better alternative?

I take my transmissions to a local lube shop that does a proper fluid exchange (not a flush, per se). Valvoline lube shops do it this way also. It's less hassle, cleaner, and I know it's a complete replacement with fresh fluid. Never had a problem in years of doing this with probably 10 different cars and trucks. It's worth doing it, in my opinion.

On the engine mounts, yes and no. They're a solid mount vs the fluid-filled original mounts, so they last forever but they also transmit slightly more engine vibration to the frame. I have the Hummer mounts on my 2012 with the more aggressive cam and I can feel it at idle whereas I couldn't before I changed the mounts. It's not annoying to me but it is noticeable. My wife can tell the difference so she prefers to drive our '07, which is all stock and smooth like butter.

 

[adventurenali92]

Dang those shocks were definitely toast! Glad you got ‘em swapped out! Bet she rides pretty nice now on new shocks with the working air bladders!

 

[donjetman]

Pan needs to be dropped to change the trans filter. Filter can become clogged/restrictive from normal wear clutch material leading to issues.

 

[bobby2175]

I take my transmissions to a local lube shop that does a proper fluid exchange (not a flush, per se). Valvoline lube shops do it this way also. It's less hassle, cleaner, and I know it's a complete replacement with fresh fluid. Never had a problem in years of doing this with probably 10 different cars and trucks. It's worth doing it, in my opinion.

On the engine mounts, yes and no. They're a solid mount vs the fluid-filled original mounts, so they last forever but they also transmit slightly more engine vibration to the frame. I have the Hummer mounts on my 2012 with the more aggressive cam and I can feel it at idle whereas I couldn't before I changed the mounts. It's not annoying to me but it is noticeable. My wife can tell the difference so she prefers to drive our '07, which is all stock and smooth like butter.

So, just want to make sure I understand - does Valvoline do this by removing the pan and also replacing the filter

Thanks for the info on the mount. I think I'll likely go with the original mount.

 

[bobby2175]

Dang those shocks were definitely toast! Glad you got ‘em swapped out! Bet she rides pretty nice now on new shocks with the working air bladders!

It's crazy what a difference! After a while, you didn't even realize what was happening. I was constantly driving with the rear sagging - it just has a much different stance now.

 

[Geotrash]

So, just want to make sure I understand - does Valvoline do this by removing the pan and also replacing the filter

Thanks for the info on the mount. I think I'll likely go with the original mount.

Nope. Just a fluid exchange. When I want the filter changed I take it to a local transmission shop.

 

[bobby2175]

So, been trying to research and understand things much better about the truck and I see a lot of positive feedback on getting a blackbear tune and AFM delete and this seems to be something I want to invest in. Any recommendations there with current condition of my truck?

Also, after doing some additional research, I see that some people do a proactive replacement of the torque converter. I don't think I'd do this before my trip, but should I be considering looking for a good transmission shop in the area and doing this sometime next year?

 

[bobby2175]

Nope. Just a fluid exchange. When I want the filter changed I take it to a local transmission shop.

#2 - Battery to frame is what I did. I put it under one of the three strut nuts. Removed the nut, wire brushed the metal clean, put the lug over the stud, reinstalled the nut with an extra ugga-dugga. That small ground that I think you're referring to is for the core support electrics, like the cooling fans. The factory battery ground is the 4 gauge that runs from the negative post on the battery to the stud on the front of the passenger side cylinder head. The ignition coil pack and core support grounds also terminate here.

#3 - It was another frame ground using the strut stud. The nearest bolt going into the engine block was that one behind the power steering pump that secures the bracket to the engine block.




Are you doing all this wiring upgrade stuff as part of your pre-trip maintenance? If your time is limited, I wouldn't worry about it until afterward when things calm down. There are much more pressing to-dos than the Big 3/Big 4. If the alternator isn't giving you any issues, leave it. If it does so happen to fail on the trip, it's super easy to replace in a parking lot. I think it's one of those items in the "may as well just replace the engine, trans, A/C evaporator, heater core, vehicle wiring harness, all switches and electronics just to be sure..." territory. Also, new does not mean fail-proof. Your alternator is working fine- it's tried and true, the devil you know. A new one could have a defect that is sure to show only during a road trip.

It seems you have a full plate with the cooling system refresh and normal pre-trip inspections and maintenance. Save the electrical upgrades for later tinkering.

@iamdub
Was hoping to talk grounds one more time to solve a particular issue.

We use the front aux input of the factory radio all the time. It's always had a whining noise come through the speakers when I accelerated. I bought a new aux cable today to replace the one that we've been using for the past 7 years and the sound quality is great, but the whining sound has also gotten louder.

After doing some research, it sounds like this could be caused by a bad ground. I've already replaced the negative battery cable and cleaned up the grounds it has. I've cleaned the battery terminals when I replaced this cable. I have to still do the two grounds at the frame below the driver seat and still need to figure out how to improve the ground from that inaccessible strap behind the engine. Any other suggestions on how to pinpoint this or make it better?

 

[Fless]

In addition to that make sure the hood is grounded. The ground straps like to detach and disappear.

Where does this ground wire go to?

2003 Tahoe 5.3L z71. Found this ground wire disconnected and can’t figure out where it goes. Any help or photo greatly appreciated. Thanks

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub
Was hoping to talk grounds one more time to solve a particular issue.

We use the front aux input of the factory radio all the time. It's always had a whining noise come through the speakers when I accelerated. I bought a new aux cable today to replace the one that we've been using for the past 7 years and the sound quality is great, but the whining sound has also gotten louder.

After doing some research, it sounds like this could be caused by a bad ground. I've already replaced the negative battery cable and cleaned up the grounds it has. I've cleaned the battery terminals when I replaced this cable. I have to still do the two grounds at the frame below the driver seat and still need to figure out how to improve the ground from that inaccessible strap behind the engine. Any other suggestions on how to pinpoint this or make it better?

Ignore that braided strap at the back of the block. It's easier to make another ground for the body-to-frame (or body-to-engine).

Your radio or amp or any of the wiring in between could be faulty or have a poor ground connection. The amp for it is on the floor, inside/under the center console. I'd go after the radio first, though. Maybe run an external test ground from the radio chassis to the tube metal dash reinforcement.