Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida - Can you help me make this a success!

[donjetman]

I noticed nobody responded to my question about proactively replacing the torque converter - I'm assuming this is not an issue?

Assuming you have the 6L80 trans?
I'm a DIYer so I proactively installed a Precision of New Hampton torque converter, part# P4646, 5 yrs and 61k miles ago when the tranny had 130k miles. I had my tranny etc out to do a rear main seal job. Paid $218 locally for it and no regrets. I've done 2 used trans fluid analysis since then and everything is still going good today at 192k miles.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3#post-1293118

 

[iamdub]

Any comment on proactively changing the torque converter - I've noticed this in a couple of threads as I've been doing a lot of reading?

I don't know the specifics, but it seems the converter in the 6L80 is a weak point. The sloppy tuning and converter are at least two items that keep this trans from being what it could/should be.

Donjetman gave his testimony and @Geotrash replaced his with an upgraded one. Maybe he can expand on what the issue is and what he did about it as a preventative measure. Maybe @NickTransmissions can offer advice.

 

[iamdub]

I'm noticing they didn't do the brake fluid

If they charged you for it, take it back. If not, you can flush the fluid yourself in about an hour. No special tools needed.

I have my hardware from @BlackBearPerf to get the truck tuned. Are there any specifics I need to request with this tune? My priority is less on fuel economy and more on the fun of driving the truck.

I believe it'd be standard, but cleaning up the shifts, torque converter clutch actions and throttle response would be the main thing. You shouldn't suffer any significant MPG loss other than you enjoying the newfound power.

Big 3/4/5 - which I still need to understand a little better, but I've purchased everything I need to do it.

All in due time. It's nothing critical before your trip. Since you mentioned it, what all have you gotten for this?

 

[Geotrash]

I don't know the specifics, but it seems the converter in the 6L80 is a weak point. The sloppy tuning and converter are at least two items that keep this trans from being what it could/should be.

Donjetman gave his testimony and @Geotrash replaced his with an up graded one. Maybe he can expand on what the issue is and what he did about it as a preventative measure. Maybe @NickTransmissions can offer advice.

Good memory. Yes, I had my TC in my 2012 replaced with a remanufactured OEM unit that was upgraded with a billet cover and stronger lockup clutch than stock. It’s a CVC BU60FHD. 20,000 towing miles later and no complaints.

 

[bobby2175]

If they charged you for it, take it back. If not, you can flush the fluid yourself in about an hour. No special tools needed.




I believe it'd be standard, but cleaning up the shifts, torque converter clutch actions and throttle response would be the main thing. You shouldn't suffer any significant MPG loss other than you enjoying the newfound power.




All in due time. It's nothing critical before your trip. Since you mentioned it, what all have you gotten for this?

They didn't charge me for the brake fluid - I just didn't see it on the invoice. I'm going to take a look tomorrow to see if it was actually done.

For big 3, I had no wire and tools. I purchased 1/0 cable, cable cutter, lugs, heat shrink tubing, some mesh loom.....AND I'm glad you asked because it looks like I forgot the crimping tool! Anything I've missed?

 

[iamdub]

For big 3, I had no wire and tools. I purchased 1/0 cable, cable cutter, lugs, heat shrink tubing, some mesh loom.....AND I'm glad you asked because it looks like I forgot the crimping tool! Anything I've missed?

That's pretty much it other than solder if you wanna do that. I soldered and crimped mine because I'm a geek. Being a 2010, yours will have a different factory routing since the main fuse is on the battery. I used marine battery terminals cuz my main fuse is on the firewall. I think we've already discussed this. Anyway, the connections are all to the same points, just in different locations.

For the crimping tool, the hammer-style is cheapest and work fine. Like this or the many clones of it. Personally, I'd use a little solder in the end of the lug if I were to use this. But, it's not absolutely necessary since these cables aren't gonna be pulled on or anything. Just crimp it as far as it'll go, until the hollow "bumps" turn into a "solid thud". This style makes the more desired hexagonal crimp, but 1/0 is at its max and may require lots of effort to fully compress.

 

[iamdub]

Good memory. Yes, I had my TC in my 2012 replaced with a remanufactured OEM unit that was upgraded with a billet cover and stronger lockup clutch than stock. It’s a CVC BU60FHD. 20,000 towing miles later and no complaints.

I checked their site and only saw a catalog. What was the price on that unit? My Tahoe Twin is putting together a parts list to delete AFM and head off any common weak points from his '09.

Actually, in recalling your build, I advised him to check with Cam Motion for a recommendation on a torquier cam that won't sacrifice any top-end. He wants either an L33 that won't require any tuning or a mild upgraded cam for more usable torque without sacrificing any drivability or top-end power.

 

[petethepug]

Definitely get the crimp terminals from the marine shop or online. They’ll either have heat shrink waterproof ends or be loaded with something that bonds to the end with a waterproof adhesive.

 

[Geotrash]

I checked their site and only saw a catalog. What was the price on that unit? My Tahoe Twin is putting together a parts list to delete AFM and head off any common weak points from his '09.

Actually, in recalling your build, I advised him to check with Cam Motion for a recommendation on a torquier cam that won't sacrifice any top-end. He wants either an L33 that won't require any tuning or a mild upgraded cam for more usable torque without sacrificing any drivability or top-end power.

I bought it through my local transmission shop based on their recommendation - I think they only sell to shops.

Good call on the cam motion cam. I’m super happy with the one in our 6.2, - exactly as you’re describing. I was reminded of again today as we were pulling our camper down of the Outer Banks.

 

[iamdub]

I bought it through my local transmission shop based on their recommendation - I think they only sell to shops.

Ah. This makes sense. I just checked their site and they have a dealer in New Orleans.

Good call on the cam motion cam. I’m super happy with the one in our 6.2, - exactly as you’re describing. I was reminded of again today as we were pulling our camper down of the Outer Banks.

I was an overhead door tech in a past life and, while servicing one at their shop, I chatted with the owner. They are certainly passionate about their craft.