What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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ScottyBoy

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https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/gm-suv-suspension-decoder.cfm

I agree, changed out my rear springs after removing the nivomat shocks. Moog Z71 spring on the left, Moog standard Tahoe spring center, GM ZW7 spring on the right.

View attachment 211749

Does anyone have the part number for those Moog Z71 springs? I too had the Nivomat shocks on my truck. Back when they still worked fine, they were awesome. The few times that I have towed heavy trailers they helped tremendously. I towed a Chevy Blazer on a car hauler trailer well over 350 miles and it did great. At first, the ass end was squatting very bad, but after driving barely a mile to go get gas, I noticed that the Nivomat shocks were doing their job and helped level the load. When they failed a few years ago, I replaced them with KYB Monomax shocks. And although the ride height or ride quality never changed initially, I am now noticing that I am bottoming out a LOT easier now, so I think I need to replace the springs, which is honestly what I should have done when I replaced the shocks.
 

HiHoeSilver

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2009 Tahoe Hybrid 4x4 (recently acquired) It is high mileage so my plan was to change all fluids. I changed the front differential gear oil yesterday. Manual called for SAE 80W-90 Axle Lubricant GM Part No. U.S. 89021671 for the front. I used a Valvoline 80W90 Gear Oil Part No VV831. Now I am second guessing my choice of fluid.......The more that I research the more that I get confused.
I am wanting to change the Rear differential fluid also the owners manual calls for SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant GM Part NO. U.S 89021677 I had picked up some Mobile1 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic LS for the rear. Now I am afraid to use it since it is marked LS (I assume that stands for Limited Slip?) and the G80 axle does not use the LS additive or at least that is what some internet articles say. I never thought it was that big of a deal but maybe it really is? Sigh nothing is ever easy. I may just pony up the cash and order the GM stuff.

Use it. The delco, m1, royal purple, and maybe others come with the LS additive already in there. It's fine. There's been tons of discussion about this and you're not going to find a clear answer.
 

eohat

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Does anyone have the part number for those Moog Z71 springs? I too had the Nivomat shocks on my truck. Back when they still worked fine, they were awesome. The few times that I have towed heavy trailers they helped tremendously. I towed a Chevy Blazer on a car hauler trailer well over 350 miles and it did great. At first, the ass end was squatting very bad, but after driving barely a mile to go get gas, I noticed that the Nivomat shocks were doing their job and helped level the load. When they failed a few years ago, I replaced them with KYB Monomax shocks. And although the ride height or ride quality never changed initially, I am now noticing that I am bottoming out a LOT easier now, so I think I need to replace the springs, which is honestly what I should have done when I replaced the shocks.


https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81069-Coil-Spring-Set/dp/B00498ZR7A
 

Bombsquad85

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Has anyone relocated the battery to the spot over by the coolant reservoir? I need the room to adjust my retrofit but my battery is in the way
 

Scottydoggs

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Has anyone relocated the battery to the spot over by the coolant reservoir? I need the room to adjust my retrofit but my battery is in the way

you would need to buy the battery tray for the pass side rear corner. i added the extra tray in my 03 gmc to run dual batterys.
 

M3kanic

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I did the same in my 02. The battery tray is relatively cheap but it is the wiring that is expensive (if you use OEM)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Scottydoggs

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you just need a long ass pos cable to loop around the rad support to the red box where pos cable goes now.

i went pos to pos, and ran a new short ground right to the engine head. my plow was never so fast working, alt gauge hardly dropped when in use.
 

Bombsquad85

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you just need a long ass pos cable to loop around the rad support to the red box where pos cable goes now.

i went pos to pos, and ran a new short ground right to the engine head. my plow was never so fast working, alt gauge hardly dropped when in use.

Hmmm I just want to move my single battery for more room around the lights lol. Does the battery tray on the DS fit the PS?
 

PG01

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Why not just run a positive from new bat location to starter which is right there on passenger side, remove stock positive from original red box position. The other side of the red box goes down to starter and small 10g goes somewhere, fusebox maybe? i forget, but red box still will get power from lead heading off to starter.
 

Bombsquad85

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I was just gonna extend the red wire and relocate the black wire to the passenger side
Why not just run a positive from new bat location to starter which is right there on passenger side, remove stock positive from original red box position. The other side of the red box goes down to starter and small 10g goes somewhere, fusebox maybe? i forget, but red box still will get power from lead heading off to starter.
 

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