What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[SRQYukon]

Might take a few days for the rear springs to settle a bit. Have you driven it around some?

Only about 20 miles around town. I don't plan on any changes until I drive it for a couple of weeks. I may decide to adjust the front coilovers up a little instead of swapping springs.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Only about 20 miles around town. I don't plan on any changes until I drive it for a couple of weeks. I may decide to adjust the front coilovers up a little instead of swapping springs.

I think it looks just fine with the rear a tad higher. Especially if you plan to tow or put equipment in the back. Your truck looks great I'm glad your enjoying all the mods!

 

[02Z71Raven]

Well, I tried my best to be patient and salvage these plug wires but they refused. After I broke the second one there was no sense in saving them. Besides, new set was already in the mail.
Got the old manifolds off, only to find out that 3 of the bolts were already missing their heads and two of them are broke off flush with surface. Luckily the heads are going to the shop for a valve job and resurfacing next week before the new cam and valve train is installed.
After that dumpster fire I decided to clean up and rearrange my tools. I work for a company where I was able to order a 300+ set for half price so all the old Frankenstein sets are going into the truck as backups and I got my new ratchet wrenches in so that's fun.
Not a great day, not a bad day. 2 steps forward, one step back I guess. I'll go ahead put the headers and new exhaust system on anyway. I want to hear this Borla before the cam and tune. Hopefully I won't have a massive exhaust leak mixed in.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

 

[Fless]

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Teamiez]

Today, I finally got around to a major suspension, brake upgrade, and differential swap (with the help of my son-in-law and another of his mechanics. In spite of major problems with the rearend sent to us by ATK (under a warranty claim), we accomplished a crazy amount of work in about 10 hours (thanks to a rear auto shop with lifts). Here's what we did:
Front of truck:
New UCA and LCA
All ball joints. tie rod ends. pitman and idler arms
Reman. steer gearbox
4-piston 2020 brake upgrade w/R1 Concept drilled and slotted rotors
R1 Concepts Optimum OEp brake pads
New SS brake lines
Atomic Fabrication Products Coilover kit with Viking coilovers

Rear of truck:
ATK rear unit swap
Bilstein 4600s
SS brake lines
Airlift coil bags and compressor
New R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors
New stock calipers and ceramic pads

So far it drives like a dream I once had. I'll be breaking in the rear diff. for a few days, so won't be able to do much performance testing. I'll post brake a performance review in the 2000-2006 section "4-Piston Big Brake Upgrade" section.


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What steering box did you end up going with?

 

[Rocket Man]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

I was just going to say it might be the FPR and yours should be on the fuel rail. If it is, it's easy to change it out. In later years they made them part of the pump assembly. It can bleed pressure off into the return line. I had that exact issue with my 02. I was actually able to find a FPR rebuilt kit but I can't find the p/n. There was an o-ring that I lost when switching the FPR from my old fuel rail onto the new one on my Whipple. I realized it was missing when I saw the part in the rebuild kit.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

oH YEAH, I tried that before a pump, sorry forgot that piece of information.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Today I drained the transmission pan and added some old-school Dexron. I had been having the P1870 code pop up and rebuilt the valve body with a TransGo SK 4L60E repair kit a few month's back. I thought that would solve the problem, but no.
When I previously rebuilt the entire transmission, I filled it with Dexron VI.
I did not know at the time that the D VI is a low-viscosity ATF, while the Dexron III is high-viscosity. I guess GM switched to improve fuel efficiency.
Between better fuel mileage and no P1870 code, the choice is obvious. I'll drive it for a few hundred miles and do another fluid change to get as much of the Dexron III into it as possible. Fingers crossed that solves my problem.

 

[Rocket Man]

Today I drained the transmission pan and added some old-school Dexron. I had been having the P1870 code pop up and rebuilt the valve body with a TransGo SK 4L60E repair kit a few month's back. I thought that would solve the problem, but no.
When I previously rebuilt the entire transmission, I filled it with Dexron VI.
I did not know at the time that the D VI is a low-viscosity ATF, while the Dexron III is high-viscosity. I guess GM switched to improve fuel efficiency.
Between better fuel mileage and no P1870 code, the choice is obvious. I'll drive it for a few hundred miles and do another fluid change to get as much of the Dexron III into it as possible. Fingers crossed that solves my problem.

Hoping for the best.