What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Scottydoggs

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So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

ive never had a car or truck hold f/p after its turned off. they all bleed off to some degree. try turning the key to run for a few seconds, then back off, then try starting it, this gives it double prime action.
 

Rocket Man

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ive never had a car or truck hold f/p after its turned off. they all bleed off to some degree. try turning the key to run for a few seconds, then back off, then try starting it, this gives it double prime action.
But if you have to cycle the key twice in order for it to fire up, somethings wrong.
 

Tonyrodz

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So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....
If you have a tech 2 you can test your injectors individually.
 

DenaliReyes

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WELP.....(Takes hat off)
:(
Mechanic said my psi is at 10... he checked other things and is sure its the cam bearings. With the engine reaching 250k its best to start new.
So, my options are to either spend a **** load of money trying to fix it and rebuild.. or... spend that money in replacing the engine with either new or low miles used.
I have almost new everything on it as far as waterpump and intake, so maybe all I need is a block?? IDK... your input is highly appreciated amigos
 

Tonyrodz

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WELP.....(Takes hat off)
:(
Mechanic said my psi is at 10... he checked other things and is sure its the cam bearings. With the engine reaching 250k its best to start new.
So, my options are to either spend a **** load of money trying to fix it and rebuild.. or... spend that money in replacing the engine with either new or low miles used.
I have almost new everything on it as far as waterpump and intake, so maybe all I need is a block?? IDK... your input is highly appreciated amigos
I had a similar situation. Developed a tap. Sounded like a valve tap, nothing too serious. My oil pressure gauge hadn't worked for awhile either--def should've fixed that--once I heard the tsp I parked it. When the mechanic finally looked at it, turned out to be a seized cam bearing. It was a low mileage motor too. Imo it's best to find a low mileage motor, and then transfer over your new parts. Also make sure that whoever is doing the work is thorough and knows what they're doing. Now would be the time to do your upgrades--csm, heads etc. Btw--I went from a 4.8 to a cammed 6.0. No regrets--powerwise anyway.
 

SRQYukon

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What steering box did you end up going with?
Sorry, I haven't been online today. I went with one from BuyAutoParts. I purchased it from Amazon. Was about to buy one from Detroit Axle, but their reviews were terrible and they required a core to be returned. Was about $80 more expensive, but it looks brand new. They explain in detail what their remanufacturing process includes, and that tipped the scales. Of course, only time will tell if the quality is really there. Been driving it for a couple of days now, and it is really tight. But then I replaced every part in the front end, as well.
 

Teamiez

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Sorry, I haven't been online today. I went with one from BuyAutoParts. I purchased it from Amazon. Was about to buy one from Detroit Axle, but their reviews were terrible and they required a core to be returned. Was about $80 more expensive, but it looks brand new. They explain in detail what their remanufacturing process includes, and that tipped the scales. Of course, only time will tell if the quality is really there. Been driving it for a couple of days now, and it is really tight. But then I replaced every part in the front end, as well.
Sounds about right, I always found out within 3-5 thousand miles with my gm remans that went bad...the redheads I tried were way ******* up out of the box being entirely way to tight with literally no center at all.
 

Teamiez

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Sounds about right, I always found out within 3-5 thousand miles with my gm remans that went bad...the redheads I tried were way ******* up out of the box being entirely way to tight with literally no center at all.
I guess we can’t say s c r e w e d up anymore here ?
 

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