What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

Well shiiiiit. I DO have a lifter tick. But I've had a lifter tick for YEARS. Probably since around 2007 or 2008. But it only ticks for a minute or two right at startup. Once the engine warms up a bit, it stops ticking. I've talked to several mechanics about it over the years and they all told me the same thing. They said unless it ever gets worse, then don't even worry about it. So I haven't worried about it.
BUT: After replacing the oil pump, the lifter tick was VERY loud on the initial startup. Sounded almost like a slight knock it was so loud. It did that for about a minute to a minute and a half, then stopped. Now I don't even hear any ticking at at all.

Probably once the new pump circulated the oil through the galleries it stopped. New pump sounds like it's doing its job. Did you do the Melling hv? That's what I used in the Tahoe and Express van.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well shiiiiit. I DO have a lifter tick. But I've had a lifter tick for YEARS. Probably since around 2007 or 2008. But it only ticks for a minute or two right at startup. Once the engine warms up a bit, it stops ticking. I've talked to several mechanics about it over the years and they all told me the same thing. They said unless it ever gets worse, then don't even worry about it. So I haven't worried about it.
BUT: After replacing the oil pump, the lifter tick was VERY loud on the initial startup. Sounded almost like a slight knock it was so loud. It did that for about a minute to a minute and a half, then stopped. Now I don't even hear any ticking at at all.

But you still have almost no oil pressure at idle? Using a mechanical gauge?

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Got the Tahoe sprayed for the rust proofing yesterday just in time for the first salting of the roads in NY this morning. Also was very close to smashing the guard rails on a over pass at 230 am on the way to work this morning before the salting. That damn black ice snuck up while half asleep!

My "rust-proofing" consists of spraying the underside with a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and chainsaw oil. I'll be doing that w/i the next couple weeks to all 3 of my vehicles.

 

[TollKeeper]

**Sarcastic** What is this "Rust" you speak of? Dont have any of that round these parts.

 

[Teamiez]

My "rust-proofing" consists of spraying the underside with a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and chainsaw oil. I'll be doing that w/i the next couple weeks to all 3 of my vehicles.

Everyone has there own ways that seem to work I heard of ‘used motor oil’ as well. Whatever this place uses it certainly works and they don’t go light.

 

[hertahoe]

Just replaced the transfer case motor in under 45 minutes! Last one took way too long. This time I took out the drive shaft. But I did notice the transfer case leaking. Probably have to shop to have them look at it. Next is the body bushings and rear sway bar issue.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Just replaced the transfer case motor in under 45 minutes! Last one took way too long. This time I took out the drive shaft. But I did notice the transfer case leaking. Probably have to shop to have them look at it. Next is the body bushings and rear sway bar issue.

What's up with your rear sway bar?

 

[ScottyBoy]

But you still have almost no oil pressure at idle? Using a mechanical gauge?

Yes, at idle ( 800-900 RPM's) it's under 10psi unless I press the gas pedal to get it up to at 1500-1800 RPMs, then it will sit at a out 20psi at that engine speed. And the mechanical gauge reads nearly the same as the dash guage. It's a cheap Harbor Freight guage if that matters.....
This morning I started the engine and with the cold oil (it was about 45 degrees outside) it idled at about 20psi. The lifter did the normal tick for about 20-30 seconds, then got so quiet I couldn't hear it. And when I say "normal", I mean the same sound it's been making on startup for the last 13 years, not the loud noise it made after the first startup after replacing the oil pump. So I let it idle at 20psi for about 3-5 minutes and let the engine warm up. After it warmed up, the oil psi dropped down to just below 10psi, probably about 8psi.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yes, at idle ( 800-900 RPM's) it's under 10psi unless I press the gas pedal to get it up to at 1500-1800 RPMs, then it will sit at a out 20psi at that engine speed. And the mechanical gauge reads nearly the same as the dash guage. It's a cheap Harbor Freight guage if that matters.....
This morning I started the engine and with the cold oil (it was about 45 degrees outside) it idled at about 20psi. The lifter did the normal tick for about 20-30 seconds, then got so quiet I couldn't hear it. And when I say "normal", I mean the same sound it's been making on startup for the last 13 years, not the loud noise it made after the first startup after replacing the oil pump. So I let it idle at 20psi for about 3-5 minutes and let the engine warm up. After it warmed up, the oil psi dropped down to just below 10psi, probably about 8psi.

Maybe try a little thicker oil?

 

[ScottyBoy]

Probably once the new pump circulated the oil through the galleries it stopped. New pump sounds like it's doing its job. Did you do the Melling hv? That's what I used in the Tahoe and Express van.

Yes I installed Melling HV pump. Thinking about running a bottle of engine flush before I drop the oil pan again. My thinking is that will hopefully clear any more sludge from the oil passages that I couldn't manually clean like I cleaned the pan and timing cover. Then change the oil yet again, and clean any crud or sludge off the pickup tube screen ( if any gets on there). Then if I still have low pressure after that, maybe try a bottle of Lucas oil additive. If that works, I'll just drive it with Lucas added at every oil change, and starts saving up for a new engine.