What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Dantheman1540]

Thanks brother. It's been a while since I updated it!

Re: LSA: Nice.. I think 112 will be good then..

Stock / Stainless valves are good.. Awesome..

Yes, I can order a number of different options, or build to suit. They do have a handy compression calculator, but it's tough being clueless.. I know I can use a thinner head gasket to bump compression a bit, but I don't know if I can really get all this figured out until some of these things are in place.. Thanks much for the tip on the Fel-pro..!

The heads are new -cast, and this is one of the things I'm trying to decide on. (though they do have a package with customer supplied heads as well) As-cast vs aftermarket casting? Not sure what that means. I think a ported head would be the best option... Here's one that I thought might me a good fit: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-8013-prc-15-degree-220cc-cnc-cathedral-heads-cam-package.aspx however, I also don't know what would be a good choice for cc volume.. 220 all the way up to 247cc..?

Timing chain: I figure between your and Mark's recommendations, I'll probably go with a single roller Cloyes.. Of course that still leaves Z06 or C5R. I guess the Z06 will do fine there.. less expensive..

Melling HV is the plan. I will do this..

Pretty sure the TB is a 3-bolt. I removed it about 18 months ago, but don't remember. lol.. It is a DBW, and since I have Flex, I think I should be good there - hopefully.
Do I need cooler plugs..? If so, I think I'll need to look into a LSA, to justify the plugs..

ETA: Gears are 3.73..

I dig the new avatar as well!

This is getting exciting do you have a build page? If not nows the time to start one.

I highly highly suggest dual springs, I broke a beehive spring at idle that was rated for the very mild cam I had, I was extremely lucky to not kill the bottom end when it happened.

Lastly if your not in a rush on holidays TSP typically throws a decent discount on their heads and cam packages, I think I saved around $250 on a set of heads from them a few years ago by waiting a few weeks.

 

[Walchit]

I ordered the summit oil pump for like 60 bucks and it has M295 cast onto it, so I'm pretty sure it is a melling. Can't you swap the spring out for more oil pressure?

 

[Tonyrodz]

1 step forward. I finally installed the lower air dam.
2 steps back
At 1st just the abs light was on. It was the ds front sensor. Changed it out with a different sensor and now both lights are on. I tried clearing it with a regular scanner and it comes immediately back. I blew out a bunch of grease in the ds hub before putting the different abs sensor in. Everything appears plugged in correctly, and brake fluid level is fine.

 

[mwilson62000]

Oil change & filter. Front Diff. and transfer case fluid change. Tomorrow rear Diff. & brake fluid exchange.

 

[Walchit]

Took the rear engine Ford 500 to the machine shop today, lol should know by the end of next week if my block and heads are still good.
Cleaned up this oil pump that came off of it, are these cracks, or was it just cast like this? If they are cracks idk how it's holding together.

 

[iamdub]

I ordered the summit oil pump for like 60 bucks and it has M295 cast onto it, so I'm pretty sure it is a melling. Can't you swap the spring out for more oil pressure?

Summit doesn't manufacture parts, they resell them. Melling selling some of their oil pumps through Summit (even if it has Summit's branding on it) for a few bucks less is still a sold Melling pump. The few sets of Summit head bolts I've gotten (Also were the lowest-priced) were GM OEM. I'm sure there are plenty other such treasures.

You can get higher pressure springs, yes. I forget which one, but one of the Mellings I got in the past had a red spring and maybe a yellow spring as well. On a new build, I wouldn't bother with more than the standard spring or maybe the mid-pressure one.

 

[iamdub]

Took the rear engine Ford 500 to the machine shop today, lol should know by the end of next week if my block and heads are still good.
Cleaned up this oil pump that came off of it, are these cracks, or was it just cast like this? If they are cracks idk how it's holding together.

Surface cracks in the casting. It's all in your oil pan, too.

 

[Sam Harris]

Raised compression, yes, but the real benefit to thinner gaskets is tighter quench. This promotes a fuller burn of the fuel mixture and helps to stave off detonation. Between this, the stronger power band at cruising speeds/RPM, etc., I'm able to meet or exceed my stock fuel economy, but with 80-90, maybe even 100 extra horses.




Those heads look to be modeled after or are modified 243/799. I'm assuming this based on the chamber volume of 64cc. Your stock heads (706/862, right?) have 61.5cc chambers. So, you could order the heads with whatever chamber size works with any other planned mods (thinner gaskets, shaved, etc.). Your stock heads are advertised as having a 197cc port volume on the intake side and 69cc on the exhaust. There's a whole deep science to port volumes in relation to cams. I'd let them recommend a port volume based on your setup. It's not a bigger is better thing. Bigger ports flow more air, but you lose velocity. This can fight the cam, reducing efficiency and causing a loss of potential power. Everything must be complementary.




I'm thinking that, best case, you'll just need the TB adapter and injector plug adapters or to splice the correct plugs onto your existing injector harness.




Ummm. Yaaas.




Good.


ALSO: My thoughts are that the Stage 3 might be a touch on the excessive side, especially if you tow and or just wanna minimize low-end loss. The converter, tight LSA and bumped compression are all to make up for the cam's sacrifice in low-end power. Ever watch any Richard Holdener vids? He actually compared the various Stages of cams in a Gen3 5.3 and 6.0. But, it's all in what you want. It might have plenty of low-end for you and you would enjoy and actually use maximizing the top-end power.

Thank you! This helps a lot. Not sure what my stock heads are. I need to look. Probably 706..? I wasn’t sure about stage 2 vs 3, but now that I think back, when I was really looking into it in more detail, I was definitely thinking the 2.. I’ll give TSP a call, and get their feedback. I just wanted to have some idea before contacting them. Hoping the person I speak with has a good handle on everything.

 

[Sam Harris]

I ordered the Truck Norris cam from BTR
I think it's 212/22x .552/.552 107.5 lsa
Haven't seen a bad review yet. I'm contemplating a small stall, but I really don't want to have it too radical for the wife to drive.

Definitely like the review by Richard Holdener of this cam..! Just was wanting to get a package deal. I’ll look again at their site.

 

[Sam Harris]

The trunnion kits replace the guts of the stock rockers. Unless you've had an oiling issue or water intrusion or really high mileage, the stock rockers are hardly a wear item. You can get new rocker bodies, though. Or, buy rockers with the upgraded trunnion kit already installed so they're just a direct, bolt-on replacement for the stock ones. The stock rockers are actually really good. But, after certain points, they quickly become questionable. The needle bearings are retained by a pressed-in cap. At it's breaking point, that cap can pop out, causing all kinds of misalignment hell as well as spewing tiny needle bearings all through the engine. It seems that the consensus is anything over .570" lift should be upgraded. Stability really isn't much of a concern with the cam and the RPM you're looking at with your truck. A good trunnion setup on stock rockers would be plenty sturdy enough. I would recommend chromo 5/16" (or 3/8" if they'll fit) push rods, though.

Great info again.! Thanks brother!