What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
S33k3r
Full Access Member
I'm turning it over to my mechanic on Monday. I have so many irons in the fire right now I'm afraid the fire's going to go out!
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet, and have someone else do it--just to keep your sanity.
Aquamania001
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2020
- Posts
- 58
- Reaction score
- 116
This weekend I had both front and rear diff's new fluid, transfer case new fluid and oil and filter change. Made sure all tires were at 40 lbs. Runs smooth as silk now. Think I am going to do the plugs next weekend. Used Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, and Valvoline for everything else.
Last edited:
mattbta
Full Access Member
Passed safety/emissions inspection. 3774 miles driven last year....double the year before!
TX is doing away with safety inspections soon but all the major counties still require emissions.
TX is doing away with safety inspections soon but all the major counties still require emissions.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Also, filled it with e85. Last tank got 11.6 MPG. Oof. But I love the power!
I got out my '02 'burb and drove it a bit and loaded it up with tires and wheel for mounting for the race car. When I was done the driver window would not roll up. Ugh!
After fiddling it was clear it was the switch. The other 3 window switches you could hear the motor try and the dome light dimmed slightly, with this one nothing happened. So I took off the door card for the first time. Removing interior body panels isn't my least favorite car task, but it is close. I usually break a clip or three. I got it off without damage and it wasn't too hard. Then I realized that I didn't have to take the door card off. After extracting the switch I had to partially disassemble it to see how it worked. I was able to fiddle with it to get the window rolled up. Since the door card was off I took the opportunity to install the ebay 3-d printed part for the broken door handle. I bought it months ago, but hadn't installed it because, well, interior body panels. When putting the door card back on it was hard to make that new door handle hook into the door, and I ended up cracking it but not completely breaking it. Dang it! I tried some epoxy-fu to try to reinforce it. I'll just be gentle. I put it all back together and found two screws I didn't put back in. Dang it again! Also I cracked the cover that goes over the switches. @#$*%! It is the light gray color and all the replacement ones I've seen are black. I pulled the rocker switch cover off the switch for the driver window, so no one accidentally rolls it down again. Then today I ordered a replacement switch unit. When I get the new switch, I'll take it all apart again, figure out where those two screws go, and try to work some epoxy magic with the cracked cover panel. Then while reinstalling it I will probably break two or three other clips. If I get the switch working and the door card on well enough that it doesn't sag, I'll call it a win.
I also took the opportunity to tape the plastic sheet to the door. The adhesive on these fails over time and that sheet is what keeps the door card dry when water runs down the window. Whenever you have a door card off of any car I recommend taping that plastic sheet in place along the top. I used gorilla tape that I tore in half lengthwise. That, at least, worked great.
After fiddling it was clear it was the switch. The other 3 window switches you could hear the motor try and the dome light dimmed slightly, with this one nothing happened. So I took off the door card for the first time. Removing interior body panels isn't my least favorite car task, but it is close. I usually break a clip or three. I got it off without damage and it wasn't too hard. Then I realized that I didn't have to take the door card off. After extracting the switch I had to partially disassemble it to see how it worked. I was able to fiddle with it to get the window rolled up. Since the door card was off I took the opportunity to install the ebay 3-d printed part for the broken door handle. I bought it months ago, but hadn't installed it because, well, interior body panels. When putting the door card back on it was hard to make that new door handle hook into the door, and I ended up cracking it but not completely breaking it. Dang it! I tried some epoxy-fu to try to reinforce it. I'll just be gentle. I put it all back together and found two screws I didn't put back in. Dang it again! Also I cracked the cover that goes over the switches. @#$*%! It is the light gray color and all the replacement ones I've seen are black. I pulled the rocker switch cover off the switch for the driver window, so no one accidentally rolls it down again. Then today I ordered a replacement switch unit. When I get the new switch, I'll take it all apart again, figure out where those two screws go, and try to work some epoxy magic with the cracked cover panel. Then while reinstalling it I will probably break two or three other clips. If I get the switch working and the door card on well enough that it doesn't sag, I'll call it a win.
I also took the opportunity to tape the plastic sheet to the door. The adhesive on these fails over time and that sheet is what keeps the door card dry when water runs down the window. Whenever you have a door card off of any car I recommend taping that plastic sheet in place along the top. I used gorilla tape that I tore in half lengthwise. That, at least, worked great.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Try taking the master switch apart. What usually happens are the contacts sometimes gets that green corrosion on the inside from all the years of getting wet from when it rains and the windows are down. Clean that corrosion off and it might work again. I've also read of guys using a battery from a power tool, andwiringthe positiveandnegativeinto the eindow switch to get the window closed. Can't hurt.
S33k3r
Full Access Member
Dropped the Suburban off at the mechanic today. Drove it there at 30 MPH, in "reduced power mode". We saved an Uber trip by driving the Escalade there, parking it nearby, riding back with my wife to the house, then driving the Suburban there. Filled up the tank on the Escalade today, too. It took 23 gallons in a 31 gallon tank. That thing gets amazing gas mileage, compared to my other 6 liters.
[EDIT: "off" should be spelled with 2 "f"s. I forgot to "f" "off" and made it "of"... I also added clarity that we parked the Escalade nearby. Fortunately, y'all are smarter than me, but the lack of clarity was bugging me.]
[EDIT: "off" should be spelled with 2 "f"s. I forgot to "f" "off" and made it "of"... I also added clarity that we parked the Escalade nearby. Fortunately, y'all are smarter than me, but the lack of clarity was bugging me.]
Last edited:
strutaeng
Full Access Member
I installed the heads on this engine I started building nearly 2 years ago. Started as a blown up LQ9 (spun main bearing, bent pushrods/valves) and wound up as an L96 block with new pistons, rebalanced 5.3 crankshaft, refreshed 317 (different) heads, and I can't remember what else now. I think I just reused the rods and misc. parts from the busted engine. Very expensive learning lesson for me. Live and learn.
Originally had bought to swap in to my V6 Silverado, but that one got a 5.3 in the meantime and it's running fine. Another possible candidate was my old beater K3500, but I think I'm gonna sell that truck...so maybe I'll leave it as an extra/spare engine. Still need pushrods and rockers.
Originally had bought to swap in to my V6 Silverado, but that one got a 5.3 in the meantime and it's running fine. Another possible candidate was my old beater K3500, but I think I'm gonna sell that truck...so maybe I'll leave it as an extra/spare engine. Still need pushrods and rockers.
Attachments
Similar threads
