What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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M1Gunner

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That is a pic of the side of the water pump before i fixed it (where the leak was) actually so you cant see it. I simply removed the qc (molded to the original hose) and stuck the hose in its place with a hose clamp. The replacement hoses do not come with the connectors molded on, you can buy them seperately but i chose not to. Just seems like an unnecessary potential failure mode.


Yeah I was driving on a back road behind wal-mart one day and started to smell coolant pretty heavy and thought to myself, damn someone’s about to have a bad day. Yeah it was me bc the next I know that qc at the heater core blew off on mine. Luckily I had some hose clamps in my hoe and just cut the qc off and secured the hose back with the hose clamp. Ran in to wal-mart got more juice and off I went.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Yeah I was driving on a back road behind wal-mart one day and started to smell coolant pretty heavy and thought to myself, damn someone’s about to have a bad day. Yeah it was me bc the next I know that qc at the heater core blew off on mine. Luckily I had some hose clamps in my hoe and just cut the qc off and secured the hose back with the hose clamp. Ran in to wal-mart got more juice and off I went.

I had one of them fail on this truck already. I replaced it. I guess the original one lasted 130k miles so its not too bad but im thinking about deleting that one too.
 

Fillerdust

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Nice, one of those 3rd brake lights is on my list.

Finally installed my Corvette servo and longer pin I've had forever in my Yukon. Huge improvement, makes my 145k transmission feel new again. Super easy to do, the hardest part for me was to get the snap ring back on the servo cover.

IMG_20180304_122508.jpg

IMG_20180304_122508.jpg
 

jarydM

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Been a while since I updated, but that's because I got married, and went back to school. Haven't had time to do much more than keep it clean. In last two weeks, I changed both rear rotors (the old ones were warped from the time I bought the truck but used them until the pads were used up) and put on new pads and park-brake pads. And put LED lights in fogs, DRLs and a set of switchbacks in on the front signals. Didn't install the resistors right at the beginning, because I was in a hurry, but I installed them today. Everything works great, the lights look super nice, they switch off the clear light and only flash amber. But I've discovered a new problem now...


When the headlights are on, and the Signal is activated, it flashes amber once, then stays on. It goes back to clear on the front, but on the HUD and the mirror, the signal is activated. Is this just a matter of needing the LED compatible flasher module? If so, what one do we use, or does anyone have any experience with this?
 

CamReynolds

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Changed oil, added some fuel treatment, and lowered my torsion keys to where im sqautted half an inch (which is what i want) but so my angles dont suck.
angles almost all the way cranked:IMG_20170921_170308576_preview.jpg
angles now with the .5 inch squat belowIMG_20180304_200008189_preview.jpg IMG_20180304_200008189_preview.jpg
 

dszx13

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Picked up a set of 2" drop spindles last week and a set of gmc 20s this week. Anyone know if I need drop shocks for 4" springs in the rear?258db86699ef133d82c72185bf2b3994.jpg

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TheAutumnWind

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Picked up a set of 2" drop spindles last week and a set of gmc 20s this week. Anyone know if I need drop shocks for 4" springs in the rear?258db86699ef133d82c72185bf2b3994.jpg

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I think you do need drop shocks for that. Make sure to do the free travel mod too.
Picked up a set of 2" drop spindles last week and a set of gmc 20s this week. Anyone know if I need drop shocks for 4" springs in the rear?258db86699ef133d82c72185bf2b3994.jpg

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 

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