What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[RAMurphy]

Wow, what an awesome job. Looks great. Hoping this something I don't have to do. But if I do, I know it can be done. Thanks for the write up.

 

[S33k3r]

This project occupied my entire past week, but she's finally checked off the big list. Stainless brake lines (the hard ones) are installed!

A few things I learned:

1. Unbolting the 6 body mounts on the driver's side and lifting it off the frame a little is worth it. A couple inches can go a long way (or so I've been told).

2. The Dorman stainless kit is quite nice. I used #919-154 for trucks w/JL4. I would have typically chosen Inline or Classic Tube (not really a Dorman fan), but the idea that they use unions on some of the longer, hard to install lines didn't sit well with me. Pleased with my choice.

3. You can bleed these puppies from scratch without a scan tool quite successfully. I've bled the corners when I did the caliper/rotor/braided upgrade, but I thought for sure the full line redo was going to be my excuse for a Tech2, or at least calling in a favor from a buddy. Nope.


The install is pretty straightforward, but getting the lines routed was not easy. There are a couple of tricky spots where things cross over/under wire looms or each other that require going in a certain order. I took my sweet time, made it a puzzle game, and didn't force anything too hard.

Once my hands and forearms had been sufficiently bled getting all the lines into their homes, it was their turn to bleed. And what sweet revenge it was! A solid win for me on this one:

I started by filling the reservoir, cracking the 2 output lines each a few times with the pedal down to at least get the MC primed. I found that this method is actually in my GM Service Manual, as well. Then I just did an old school gravity bleed all the way around. 4 jack stands with all the wheels off and a patient assistant helps get fluid through 17 miles of brake lines. I did use the patented @iamdub "2X4 on the floor and cycle the key a bit while pumping" method.

Next, since I hadn't removed the MC to bench it and was now at the front drivers wheel anyways, I bled the MC for real by running a line from the caliper bleeder up into the reservoir and pumping the pedal until I had a full closed loop going. Worked like a charm!

The pedal was getting there by this point, but not firm by any means. I knew it had to be the ABS module now. Of course a scan tool does this, and we've all heard the "slam on the brakes on a gravel road and then bleed it all again" method. Yuck. I opted for the "Well, it's already on jack stands..." line of thought.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION, BUT RATHER SIMPLY AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT I DID!

I put that baby in 4WD, got her up to about 20 mph and "activated" the ABS really well a few times. I did get a front left wheel speed sensor code doing this and I have a couple of ideas why, but I just cleared it when I was done and it never came back.

I then did another trip around the truck by the usual means and got quite a bit more air from each spot (along with all nice new clear fluid). Pedal firmed up at least as well as it was before I started this whole thing. I will likely see if there is any more to bleed in 5k ish next time I rotate tires just for grins.

I DID:
Be my usual self and go a little overboard on a couple of OCD items like sleeving polyurethane tube over the lines in some spots where they crossed or could possibly contact the frame or other metal, including each other. I also added a few of my own 2-line routing clips that we use in the shop on 1/4" refrigeration lines where I felt the factory support was lacking or worn.

Take my time, enjoy my music, complain alot, work hard, and do a job that I can sleep well with in the end.

I DIDN'T:
Do the jounce hoses or the two hard lines along the rear axle. I know, I know, all this and then didn't do the last 4 pieces! But before (or after) you all give me a hard time, I did have a reason. I was very busy leading up to this job and forgot to hound Goodridge for my "fixit" washers after emailing them to no avail. Is there a tried and method to obtain these? Should I just call them? This will also give me another reason to do a sway bar upgrade and clean some other stuff up back there.

Okay, here's some mandatory pics...

The Old and the New:
View attachment 378173
View attachment 378174
Before and After:
View attachment 378175
View attachment 378176

They're in!
View attachment 378180

Well, that's about it, I think! A job I knew was inevitable and avoided until it forced itself upon me! Feels good to have it (mostly) done!

Did you do anything to address the rust while you were in there? It looks good -- mostly scale, but I thought an antirust product might help out.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Did you do anything to address the rust while you were in there? It looks good -- mostly scale, but I thought an antirust product might help out.

I did not. I need to. I plan on addressing it a bit while doing a suspension refresh. Any suggestions?

 

[iddqd]

Here is my oil test results from the latest oil change:

 

[iddqd]

Also, 2 weeks ago the "Replace your engine" light went on. P0430. Bank 2 catalytic converter died. Downstream O2 sensor readings clearly indicated that. I replaced it with the brand new OEM converter. That was not cheap!!!

The removal of it was not too difficult, but still a PITA. Of course, one of the manifold nuts didn't want to cooperate, so I had to cut the converter and remove the exhaust manifold as well.

But to put back the new one, that was a struggle!!!

Now everything is sweet, the catalyst monitor is completed and I am happy!

 

[S33k3r]

Also, 2 weeks ago the "Replace your engine" light went on. P0430. Bank 2 catalytic converter died. Downstream O2 sensor readings clearly indicated that. I replaced it with the brand new OEM converter. That was not cheap!!!

The removal of it was not too difficult, but still a PITA.

Isn't there a section of town where you could have parked for free removal?

 

[Rocket Man]

I went to my buddy’s body shop this AM to have him evacuate my AC since I’ll be replacing everything and there was no refrigerant left in it. He recharged it just last week but my compressor wasn’t working. We could hear a leak down near the compressor when he put a vacuum on it. Im hoping it was a seal that blew when I jumpered the low pressure switch and got the compressor to run ( it was making a bad noise so I shut it down). Weird thing is, we couldn’t see any sign of where it leaked. He said it should have left a mess. Parts are rolling in so I’ll find out soon.

 

[iddqd]

Isn't there a section of town where you could have parked for free removal?

Entire SF is that part of town

However, we have a smog check here in Comifornia, and a vehicle will not pass it without OEM or CARB approved cat.

 

[S33k3r]

Entire SF is that part of town

However, we have a smog check here in Comifornia, and a vehicle will not pass it without OEM or CARB approved cat.

I was not clear, I am sorry. I was not suggesting running without them; I was just suggesting you should have taken advantage of the free removal service. FWIW, I went to High School in Concord, and my dad worked in SF. So I am familiar. It sure was nice when I was there, but I do not want to see it again right now, due to the things I have heard.

 

[RAMurphy]

I went to my buddy’s body shop this AM to have him evacuate my AC since I’ll be replacing everything and there was no refrigerant left in it. He recharged it just last week but my compressor wasn’t working. We could hear a leak down near the compressor when he put a vacuum on it. Im hoping it was a seal that blew when I jumpered the low pressure switch and got the compressor to run ( it was making a bad noise so I shut it down). Weird thing is, we couldn’t see any sign of where it leaked. He said it should have left a mess. Parts are rolling in so I’ll find out soon.

@Rocket Man Good luck Mark. Hope for the best. Bob