What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[treehan77]

that dryer tank is damaged, dented in. some shmuck went and welded that sensor in, and you can see the cracks on the top side of the weld in the pic.

this is one of them, tell me your AC dont work with out telling me memes lol

What? A/c has worked perfectly for the 10 years I’ve had the Yukon…

 

[Rocket Man]

They give you a plastic bag to put over them which helps it slide (I learned this after I struggled for a whole LOL).
You can't remove the old leather because they injected the armrest with foam and it would all come apart so you slide the new ones over the old and it is a really tight fit. After an hour or so of struggling my hands were tired and I'm too old for this stuff.
The seats were not a big deal, I have to do the Denali next and will do headrest covers as well, gonna take headrest and armrests to the upholstery shop.
I'm learning to pick my battles.

The plastic bag is what you use to hook the vacuum to and suck the air out of the foam which makes them waaaay smaller so the cover slips on easy, just like the headrests. Just bag them, and use the end of the bag to get the vacuum to get a decent seal, and turn it on. I did a full Katzkin interior in my Silverado and without a vacuum and plastic bags I wouldn’t have been able to do headrests without that trick. You would be amazed how much smaller they are after you suck the air out of them. You can actually move the cover around and position it easy. Also essential for me was a steamer with a small diameter hose attached to it so I could get steam into the corners and seam areas after installing the saet covers. It makes the foam expand and tightens up the covers so there’s no wrinkles. These are the same tricks upholstery shops use. A helper with the vacuum would be good but I managed by myself pretty easy.

 

[Scottydoggs]

What? A/c has worked perfectly for the 10 years I’ve had the Yukon…

maybe not since this winter, the stuff blowing out is the oil in the Freon, if you look close you can see the cracks.

 

[latvius]

Installed this the other day I've had sitting in a file cabinet for a couple of years now.

 

[TEXCHEVY]

Why 10w40?

Hi, my Tahoe has 302.000 km, it was starting to have some small oil leaks, i was advised to use Valvoline 10w40 and I must say that since i’ve been using it the problem has been solved, in the past I also had problem with the oil pressure which is now fine. In addition, at every oil change I first do a wash with Bardahl Tune Up.

 

[Keviebear86]

I didn't notice it before but my front sway bar is rubbing on my inner tie rods when my wheel is turned, I'm not getting full turning radius at this point. Any suggestions? I can't find a solution at this time. I have a 3" lift (keys and pucks) I'm looking for an extended sway bar links that will fit

 

[Tahoe14]

Check with @Trey Hardy

 

[Trey Hardy]

I didn't notice it before but my front sway bar is rubbing on my inner tie rods when my wheel is turned, I'm not getting full turning radius at this point. Any suggestions? I can't find a solution at this time. I have a 3" lift (keys and pucks) I'm looking for an extended sway bar links that will fit

Try the kryptonite or cognito sway bar links the one side is a clevis so it’s got a pivot point which may solve your hitting the tie rods issue

 

[Tonyrodz]

I finally worked on the rear ds brake line. The guy who originally did it was a butcher. What happened was i blew the rearend, so I paid a shop to swap rears. I supplied the new/used rearend. We'll, I found out much later that the shop farmed it out to a guy. He must've stretched/broke my braided brake line and replaced it with a rubber line. Didn't even tell me. He also replaced the steel hard line and used the wrong type of flare. So anyway I installed a new braided line and used a bubble flare--Thx @Fless --. It now stops when I step on the pedal.
This is the flare he used for the brake lines connection.
I kept messing up the flares. Found out I was using the wrong size.
Thank God I'm done. Now I need to use the Tech2 to bleed the abs--anyone know the correct process?
Also gonna swap the trans solenoids!

 

[Tonyrodz]

I finally worked on the rear ds brake line. The guy who originally did it was a butcher. What happened was i blew the rearend, so I paid a shop to swap rears. I supplied the new/used rearend. We'll, I found out much later that the shop farmed it out to a guy. He must've stretched/broke my braided brake line and replaced it with a rubber line. Didn't even tell me. He also replaced the steel hard line and used the wrong type of flare. So anyway I installed a new braided line and used a bubble flare--Thx @Fless --. It now stops when I step on the pedal.
This is the flare he used for the brake lines connection. View attachment 452615View attachment 452616
I kept messing up the flares. Found out I was using the wrong size.View attachment 452617
Thank God I'm done. Now I need to use the Tech2 to bleed the abs--anyone know the correct process?
Also gonna swap the trans solenoids!

Just to clarify--I was using a flaring bit that was too small for the inlet OD of the pre existing brake line. That's why the flares were collapsing or coming out crooked. Using the correct sized bit fixed that.