What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geotrash

Dave
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I really don't want the idle chop, but given the power curve the TruckNorris cam seems to make, I just might have to go with it anyway. That 107 LSA is a little rowdy.

I was looking at their V2 torque cam, but this basically has the same bottom end as that, but also carries the top end a lot better.

:hmmm2:


View attachment 355526
Take a look at the Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam. More power and a smooth idle. I have the 6.2 version of it and am thrilled with its performance. I had a BTR Stage 2 Truck Cam in previously and the Cam Motion cam is superior in every way, for my needs (lots of towing).

 

iamdub

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I didn't say I'm anti wot, just that I don't do it from an absolute dig in my stock 6k lbs daily driver SUV

I have other vehicles to do that in for those thrills. Shit, I do 5k rpm clutch dumps on slicks in my mustang and pull wheelies.

Make a joke about some featherfootin' and out come the racers to defend themselves!

I understand not beating on your daily driver. Speaking of, I don't think the PCM allows actual WOT from a dig due to the Torque Management.
 
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Make a joke about some featherfootin' and out come the racers to defend themselves!

I understand not beating on your daily driver. Speaking of, I don't think the PCM allows actual WOT from a dig due to the Torque Management.
Yup, with their years of experience breaking shit, lol

That TM shit can be removed with a tune. I also think the Drive by Wire limits it also some how, or just makes it annoying.
 

pwtr02ss

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Take a look at the Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam. More power and a smooth idle. I have the 6.2 version of it and am thrilled with its performance. I had a BTR Stage 2 Truck Cam in previously and the Cam Motion cam is superior in every way, for my needs (lots of towing).

I wish I would've done the cam motion cam instead of the btr stage 2. I feel the quality control isn't there since I'm having to use two different length pushrods. Outside (front and rear corners) is fine with shorter, need 0.025 longer get for the center to get in spec and get the sewing machine noise down (hopefully)
 

Geotrash

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I wish I would've done the cam motion cam instead of the btr stage 2. I feel the quality control isn't there since I'm having to use two different length pushrods. Outside (front and rear corners) is fine with shorter, need 0.025 longer get for the center to get in spec and get the sewing machine noise down (hopefully)
Huh... I didn't have that trouble with mine from BTR. I just had crappy lifter trays purchased from a guy who claimed they were genuine OEM, but were demonstrably not, that allowed the lifters to twist and take out the cam.
 

iamdub

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I wish I would've done the cam motion cam instead of the btr stage 2. I feel the quality control isn't there since I'm having to use two different length pushrods. Outside (front and rear corners) is fine with shorter, need 0.025 longer get for the center to get in spec and get the sewing machine noise down (hopefully)

It could be the block. It's common for LS engines to have different dimensions at the corners. When I measured my piston height, I was .003" more (or was it less?) at the corner cylinders. Regardless, .025" is a lot of variance.
 

Rocket Man

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Make a joke about some featherfootin' and out come the racers to defend themselves!

I understand not beating on your daily driver. Speaking of, I don't think the PCM allows actual WOT from a dig due to the Torque Management.
Mine does. You just need a tune to remove TM.
 

iamdub

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Mine does. You just need a tune to remove TM.

I intentionally kept almost all of my TM with my tune because I don't know how old the trans is. I've put 69K on my Tahoe since I bought it, but I don't know what happened over the previous 146K outside of recalls and other dealer-maintained/repaired items.

I want a trans that'll take 0 TM all day. I need my right foot to be the TM and the tires to be the fuse.
 

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