What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
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Got the new hydraulic lines I had made up put on the dual remote mount oil filter/oil cooler setup...

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Also got the new Rancho 9 way adjustable struts put in the front with the Rough Country grade 9 hardware to bolt them to the bottom of the control arm. And the new Moog poly sway bar end links. These are 3.25" between sway bar and control arm and it makes the sway bar parallel to the ground where as the ones that came out were too long because they were the stock length for the stock height of the truck. These appear to be the perfect length for the 4/6 drop.
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I was hoping it would raise it just a little and it may have. I honestly forgot to get before measurements.

So far so good... guess I will have to adjust them a little bit and see if I notice any difference. Right now they are set at 5 which is the half way point, which to my understanding is basically like stock.
 

BG1988

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I was just telling my brother about this. He'll be borrowing the Tahoe while I fix his truck, and I gave him two rules: Use 89 octane or higher and use the side steps to get UP out of the seat before getting out. Don't do that thing where you position yourself like you're in a luge and slide out.
91 or 93 octane. less gear seaching then 87

on steep grades. it will stay in top gear longer

if you have a flex fuel use or mix your own custom blend. like e30
 

Hi-psi

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Replaced the front differential mounts/brackets today. Overall not a bad/hard job. Driver side mount was a bit of a pain to get out. That's probably what consumed the most time because since I was doing it by myself, I had to constantly keep getting up from under the vehicle to raise/lower the jack supporting the diff, get back under, twist, pull, pry to get the bracket to move some more, wash, rinse, repeat. A lift or 2nd person would have made this a ton easier.

Old bushings were definitely shot. I could move them by hand, visible cracks, etc.

You can just replace the bushings themselves instead of the entire mount/bracket, but you have to press them out/in, so for not much more money you can just get the entire bracket which in my opinion makes it much easier/quicker job.

The clunk on aggressive downshifts I was having seems to be gone now. I also use to get some weird creaking noises when slowing to a stop then putting it in reverse to backup into a parking spot or something. I'm guessing because the front diff was moving all around with the worn bushings.
 

97audia4

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Long tubes with factor muffler and factory resonator. Almost stock sounding when idle and cruising, with no drone through all rev range. Ill get some sounds clips tomorrow.

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Derick

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So I did this today;
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Backed into my neighbors mailbox. I'm so angry about on call stuff that has changed at work. I've been called out probably a dozen times over ******** nonsense alerts. I was flustered and not paying proper attention becuase I haven't been out of the house all day.
 

swathdiver

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Still doing the front brakes! The impact didn't leave the caliper bracket bolts looking too good on one side so we'll replace them on the morrow. Fooling around with the caliper brackets boots now but think I'll call it a day and start refreshed tomorrow. New hub is on and torqued down. Will test it tomorrow with the Tech-2.
 

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