donjetman
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- Oct 22, 2018
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didn't look that close lol, already put it back in
here is a couple more zoomed in
View attachment 431145View attachment 431146
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appears so.......Additionally, on the ceramic there may be specks of material. The two most common types are pepper specks and shiny balls. They show detonation, but the pepper specks also can mean a slight oil-control problem. The specks will attach themselves to the ceramic and the outer shell of the plug. The shiny balls are tiny pieces of aluminum from the top of the piston. Similar to the side electrode, the ceramic also should have a ring around it. This is called the fuel ring. It should be a brown-gray color and half-way up the height of the ceramic. If its too deep on the ceramic, the chamber is again too hot. If its too close to the electrode, the chamber is too cold.Is that balls of aluminum on the center electrode in that top pic
I really need to get started on my LC9 I bought almost a year ago and haven't touched.Made a thing to center the front timing cover. The kids don't use their little toy 3D printer, so I fired it up with a ThingVerse .stl, and made the overpriced tool for free.
View attachment 431061View attachment 431062
EDIT: Also, the new harmonic balancer just arrived. Now I'm just waiting on the oil pickup tube clamp to button up the front of the engine.
didn't look that close lol, already put it back in
here is a couple more zoomed in
View attachment 431145View attachment 431146
Yup, what I thought.appears so.......Additionally, on the ceramic there may be specks of material. The two most common types are pepper specks and shiny balls. They show detonation, but the pepper specks also can mean a slight oil-control problem. The specks will attach themselves to the ceramic and the outer shell of the plug. The shiny balls are tiny pieces of aluminum from the top of the piston. Similar to the side electrode, the ceramic also should have a ring around it. This is called the fuel ring. It should be a brown-gray color and half-way up the height of the ceramic. If its too deep on the ceramic, the chamber is again too hot. If its too close to the electrode, the chamber is too cold.
so could this be caused be a faulty lifter? that's what I am wondering or if it is just detonation, maybe I need a injector balance? I don't know, the fact that doing a crank relearn made a bunch of misfires go away makes me think maybe the crank sensor has been out of wack or needs to be replaced?Yup, what I thought.
You can also use the discolored area on the ground strap and center electrode to determine the correct heat range plug. It's basically how far the plug sticks into the combustion chamber.