What do I do now?

[SunlitComet]

I have triggering pressures for the low refrigerant and and high pressure cut-off but for the cycling switch this is all that is written.

Pressure Cycling Switch COMPONENTS
The refrigeration cycle (on and off operation of the compressor) is controlled by a switch that senses the low-side pressure as an indicator of evaporator temperature. The pressure cycling switch is the freeze protection device in the system and senses refrigerant pressure on the suction side of the system. This switch is mounted on a standard service low-side fitting. This switch also provides compressor cutoff during cold weather.

OPERATION
Additional compressor protection results from the operating characteristics of the low-side pressure cycling system. If a massive discharge occurs in the low side of the system, or the orifice tube becomes plugged, low-side pressures could be insufficient to close the contacts of the pressure switch. In the event of a low charge, insufficient cooling accompanied by rapid compressor clutch cycling will be noticed at high outside (ambient) air temperatures.

If replacement of the pressure cycling switch is necessary, it is important to note that this may be done without removing the refrigerant charge. A service fitting is located in the pressure switch fitting. During replacement of the pressure switch. a new O-ring seal must be installed and the switch assembled to 4.5 Nm (40 lb in.) .

 

[SunlitComet]

One more thing did you get pressure readings for high and low as well as ambient temp and humidity? I found a chart or two then when temp and humidity is known it tells you the maximum hi - lo pressures for a performance test. And on one of those charts the lowest high side pressure is still higher than the one you mentioned earlier. The info was buried pretty deep in the data. I think there might have been cycling pressures too.

 

[Stresst]

One more thing did you get pressure readings for high and low as well as ambient temp and humidity? I found a chart or two then when temp and humidity is known it tells you the maximum hi - lo pressures for a performance test. And on one of those charts the lowest high side pressure is still higher than the one you mentioned earlier. The info was buried pretty deep in the data. I think there might have been cycling pressures too.

No not really. All I remember is 250 on the high at idle and it was in the low 70's outside. When accelerating the pressure rose.

As fas as low, I dont remember.....when I asked the following day he told me 35 at idle but I think he was guessing.

I dropped my truck off a friend of the family's body shop his buddy does a/c work somewhere else.

I stopped at the body shop on the way home from work he wasnt able to bring it by his buddy's shop but we started to poke around. He removed the glove box and blower motor and finally got a look at the evaporator. There was hardly anything in there. A big dissapointment to say the least, I was hoping it was blocked and that was the end of this nightmare. One thing he noticed was the seal on the blend door, the gasket was 75% broke/missing. Probably 1/8-3/16" gap........Now is this the problem? Im sure its part of it. He is gonna try and set something up with his buddy for tomorrow. gonna try and take a look at the other door but its seems its harder to get to then this one.

If he is gonna take this dash apart to replace the seals im gonna replace the fron evap while he is in there for sure!

Lets see what he comes back with. I will keep you posted.

Thanks for the help.

Angelo[/QUOTE]

 

[SunlitComet]

that little gap can have an effect although it hard to say how much. I don't think it will do much harm since you seem to be effected by outside ambient temperature.

 

[Stresst]

Let me ask you something regarding cleaning the evaporator........The other day my buddy take the blow motor off and I finally got a quick look at the evaporator. All we found was a little debris at most. Long story short he put it back together w/o me knowing and w/o cleaning the evap properly. Is it worth taking the motor back out and cleaning it with foaming coil cleaner?

 

[bambam]

getting the ac delco compressor at wholesale would save you no money with shipping it is 185 wholesale 200 on amazon so not really worth it sorry

when i cleaned my evap core i removed the blowed and then i stuck water hose in and sprayed the hell out of it i removed the foam below it on top of heater core and the heater core and as my truck was used for land surveying and interior was a muddy mess before i got it a ton of crap came out

 

[SunlitComet]

Let me ask you something regarding cleaning the evaporator........The other day my buddy take the blow motor off and I finally got a quick look at the evaporator. All we found was a little debris at most. Long story short he put it back together w/o me knowing and w/o cleaning the evap properly. Is it worth taking the motor back out and cleaning it with foaming coil cleaner?

If it feels like it flows the same amount of air and it does does not smell bad you will be fine. At the same time it would not be such a bad idea to "de-scent and de-mold it" from time to time like maybe before and after the summer days just to keep it "fresh".