After some prolonged absence and a quite few repairs, I need some help again. After some extreme cold in Colorado, I had to replace the throttle body sensor as truck went into limp mode. All went well, but when deep under the hood I realized I have a small coolant leak from a line pictured. What is it? Is it the tranny coolant line? Can I replace just the fitting or the entire line needs to go as its a whole piece with the fitting attached? Thank much@
What is this line that leaks?
- Thread starter TahoeLT10
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ivin74
05 NBS Nali
That is a common leak spot for these suv's, those coolant lines go to your heater and not the transmission. Replace with oem fittings DONOT use dorman or aftermarket junk. Those are the coolant tee's
They sell aftermarket aluminium tee,s but are like 90 bucks each. Several members have use them. For the price of those aluminum tee's you can replace twice. If oem lasted this long stay w oem, chances are you will probably won't own the vehicle by the time they need to be replaced again.
They sell aftermarket aluminium tee,s but are like 90 bucks each. Several members have use them. For the price of those aluminum tee's you can replace twice. If oem lasted this long stay w oem, chances are you will probably won't own the vehicle by the time they need to be replaced again.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I just wanted to add they're very easy to replace, just a little bit of a pita if you have big hands.
Joseph Garcia
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If one tee connector is leaking, the other tee may do the same in the not to distant future. Replace both tees. I found these tees and fittings to be a b-i-t-c-h to replace, due to limited space for big hands (as @Tonyrodz stated above), when I needed to replace mine. Be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation around the tees will get under your skin and itch like h-e-l-l for a few days.
I strongly recommend that you replace all of your rubber coolant hoses as well, while you are at it. My problems started when one of the heater hoses tore itself apart at one of the tees.
I strongly recommend that you replace all of your rubber coolant hoses as well, while you are at it. My problems started when one of the heater hoses tore itself apart at one of the tees.
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Tonyrodz
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donjetman
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TahoeLT10,
In theory the heater Ts are easy the change. In reality I found them the be a giant PIA. I replaced both with GruvenParts $billet$ aluminum Ts.
At the same time I replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant (NAPA Orange), and upper and lower radiator hoses. I replace the heater hoses too. One of the heater hoses has a Y in it. I replaced it with Dorman# 626-553 = NAPA# 827-5730-1. either of these have a metal Y, not a plastic.
In theory the heater Ts are easy the change. In reality I found them the be a giant PIA. I replaced both with GruvenParts $billet$ aluminum Ts.
At the same time I replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant (NAPA Orange), and upper and lower radiator hoses. I replace the heater hoses too. One of the heater hoses has a Y in it. I replaced it with Dorman# 626-553 = NAPA# 827-5730-1. either of these have a metal Y, not a plastic.
I had the Gruven aluminum tees in my 2012 and just replaced them with OEM tees because I couldn’t get them to stop leaking. There is no barb on the heater core pipes so I had to get in there with a short screwdriver every season change and got tired of it. You could use spring clamps on them I suppose but o ended up destroying the silicone hose getting them off the tees. OEM will last as long as the truck at this point, and no more leaks.
I also have the Gruven tees on my 2007 and they aren’t leaking currently but the next time they do, I’m pulling them out. I tightened them in the fall for the third time, so maybe third times a charm.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Worm drive hose clamps shouldn't be used (or even sold) with silicon hose. The silicon is too soft and squeezes through the slots and also gets torn up by the gear. At the very least, use ones that have a smooth metal lining, like these.... 
