Anymore, I check anything that comes pre-assembled.
I have had plugs come put of brand new waterpumps. Since then, I check everything.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Wife overheated the 2005. . .
- Thread starter strad
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I have had plugs come put of brand new waterpumps. Since then, I check everything.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
This is what I do, too, but almost never have to add much water. Consider that after the flush there will be a considerable amount of plain water left in the block unless you're pulling the block drains. Using concentrate will help get the mixture to 50/50. If you use pre-diluted you may never get to the desired mixture.
CXXX
TYF Newbie
Change the OIL
mountie
Supporting Member
My old truck, I changed the radiator. The new version, same as the old one, the manufacturer deleted the drain plug.
Avoid a drain plug IMO.
Avoid a drain plug IMO.
Odds are you will be ok. Just last month my daughter was using my 04 YukonXL and while driving (in town just coming off the freeway) massive white smoke started pouring out from the hood. She pulled over at a gas station which just happen to be right there and it would not start (due to overheat). It was late at night, she called some friends, they came over and pushed it into a parking space and she left it there for me to deal with in the morning. When I got there and popped the hood, the driver side heater core hose had snapped off (its that T shaped white plastic connector) at the hose connect - dumping the entire coolant on to the engine. I went and picked up a 5/8" hose splice, cut both hoses and spliced them together (bypassing the heater) and refilled it with a ton of fluid (it was completely empty). Ran like a champ - the sensor worked as intended and protected the engine. Once I got it home, pulled the codes, cleared it and my patch was working well. Since then I have replaced everything that is hose or plastic in cooling system so we don't have that again - all that stuff is 16 years old and getting brittle. I did a compression test - no issues - not bad for this original engine with over 220k miles. Short story - as long as the computer did its job and the temp sensor did its job shutting the engine down AND you have been keeping clean synth oil in it - you should be good.
Bill Barnes
Member
One thing I have seen on this forum is a recommendation to obtain stainless steel replacements for those plastic (nylon?) tees. I have a 2005 Yukon with 189K miles, so I am probably running on borrowed time, but I will get the stainless tees when the time comes.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I am surprised nobody makes a cast aluminum replacement that is identical to the plastic ones....
Yeah, I’m not a fan of the 6-8 clamps necessary for the Gruven T’s. In reality, for me, a set of the OEM plastic ones is fine considering they last at least 10 years. Just like other parts, they just need to be replaced as a maintenance item. IMO the Gruven parts probably wouldn’t have been invented if Dorman didn’t make cheap knock-offs that only last a short time, which caused people to suffer multiple failures. There’s very few Dorman parts I would buy, and these aren’t one of them.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Can’t use quick connects with that, can you? Looks like clamps are needed.
