Window rollup - should I replace the motor?

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latvius

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Window motor with regulators are cheap and easy to r&r, I would have replaced them long ago if they gave me the grief yours have.
 

Art Karlson

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So my pass window has been a PITA for years. It binds up and stops, especially when it's cold out, or even 'cooler'.

So I have a window rollup module on my alarm which allows me to just 'tap' it to roll completely up or down and not have to hold the switch. The problem is, it doesn't allow me hold it down to keep overriding the automatic shutoff when it 'binds'. So I have to keep tapping it to make it go up a half-inch at a time if it's cold out. In fact, last time I checked it, it took me 47 tries to get the pass window to roll up all the way.

Also, the driver's side started giving me similar problems in the cold, though to lesser degree.

So I'm putting in a new motor and the trans is rebuilt, too. I'd like to fix these windows while I'm at it. I did some research on the regulator, thinking this was what I need, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just pull the door apart - which is a major undertaking in my truck, the doors have been sealed and deadened heavily for audio stuff - and replace the motor and spray some silicone in the tracks and cables and such. I THINK the motor should be easy to replace, whereas the regular might be more complicated.

What do you think? It seems to me it is most likely the tracks and cables have a spot that is binding and the motor has gotten weaker over the years, so changing the motor and lubricating the heck out of the other parts might make a difference.

Some of the parts on RockAuto say they're actually built to higher standards and upgraded parts as compared to the OE stuff. Can anyone vouch for this or should I just go back with OE?

TL;DR
Rear windows are great. Front pass has always been a problem for 10y since I got this truck and the last couple years has gotten worse. Driver's front is now getting slightly worse.
 

Art Karlson

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So my pass window has been a PITA for years. It binds up and stops, especially when it's cold out, or even 'cooler'.

So I have a window rollup module on my alarm which allows me to just 'tap' it to roll completely up or down and not have to hold the switch. The problem is, it doesn't allow me hold it down to keep overriding the automatic shutoff when it 'binds'. So I have to keep tapping it to make it go up a half-inch at a time if it's cold out. In fact, last time I checked it, it took me 47 tries to get the pass window to roll up all the way.

Also, the driver's side started giving me similar problems in the cold, though to lesser degree.

So I'm putting in a new motor and the trans is rebuilt, too. I'd like to fix these windows while I'm at it. I did some research on the regulator, thinking this was what I need, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just pull the door apart - which is a major undertaking in my truck, the doors have been sealed and deadened heavily for audio stuff - and replace the motor and spray some silicone in the tracks and cables and such. I THINK the motor should be easy to replace, whereas the regular might be more complicated.

What do you think? It seems to me it is most likely the tracks and cables have a spot that is binding and the motor has gotten weaker over the years, so changing the motor and lubricating the heck out of the other parts might make a difference.

Some of the parts on RockAuto say they're actually built to higher standards and upgraded parts as compared to the OE stuff. Can anyone vouch for this or should I just go back with OE?

TL;DR
Rear windows are great. Front pass has always been a problem for 10y since I got this truck and the last couple years has gotten worse. Driver's front is now getting slightly worse.
I replaced mine last fall. It was very easy and rock auto had the parts to me quickly. I did replace everything and lubed it well
There was a video on youtube that was well done and easy to follow
 
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tRidiot

tRidiot

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I did buy a pair of Dorman regulator and motor combos - both passenger side windows should be fixed before I leave for San Antonio on Friday. :D


That is... IF I can get my lazy arse to DO it!
 
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tRidiot

tRidiot

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Well, I gave up on pass front - worked an hour and a half, but the baffles for my door speakers were a helluva lot more difficult to get into than I thought. My install guy definitely built them to be solid. I'm gonna have to do that window regulator someday when I have an entire afternoon to dedicate to it. <sigh>
 
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tRidiot

tRidiot

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At least one good bit of news - my son helped me last night replace the rear pass window motor, it now works perfectly. Used a Dorman replacement for about $83. Original wouldn't move from fully rolled up, so getting it out was a little tougher, but I managed.

It was a good lesson for my son in how to manage it, too, that would probably have been a $250 job at a shop. Pretty easy all in all, and I don't have to smell his farts when we're on our trips over the next two weeks! He can finally roll that window down again! lol
 

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