Goggle is your friend. Anything you want to know about adjusting or removing keys.
I did 2" spacers and 2" on the keys up front with a 3" body lift and it worked out great with 295/60r20 Cooper STT Pro's. Looks almost factory, but better.
The Coroseal works great so far, we will see how good it is next year I guess. What is the part number of the bump stop you added to your lower a arm? I bought a set but they are pointed and I was going to cut them down flat so they would work.
Remember that when you install a body lift that it may not add ground clearance on it's own, it will allow you to install bigger tires that will give you more ground clearance. The plus is that if you ever need to change out the brake lines or fuel lines or anything under there you will have...
No more stacking of spacers. I have 2" spacers in the back under the springs and the lift keys in the front. With settling and alignment it sets level now. I forget the measurements to the center of the fenders but I will check after I get it off the ramps it's on now. I have it up doing some...
I actually loosened them and used my electric impact to reinstall them and straightened everything up. The keys were the cheaper ones from ebay and they work great. They fit pretty snug and I haven't had any issues. They are a little thicker than the factory keys. The front settled a little and...
Had a 98 GMC 3500 once that the battery terminals would corrode every 3 months no matter what I did. When it would happen the connection would get bad and the computer would act crazy. Once the trans stopped shifting and was hung up in 1st. I removed the cables and let the computer reset and...
Not really. It has made some of the old paint on the frame bubble but does not eat it off.
It is a slow go but it is working. I used the 4" grinder with a wire wheel on what I could get to today to speed up the process. We will see.
Working on rust removal. This will take a few applications I'm sure. It leaves a white residue after you wash it off and it drys. I'll post some pic's when it is good enough to throw some paint on.
The 4-6 may bottom out if you only have 2" of lift. The body of the 4-6 should be longer than the 2-1/2 shocks.
BILSTEIN 24186643 {#930625, F4BE5C153H0} B8 5100 Info
Front; For Front Lifted Height: 0-2.5"; With Torsion Key Lift; Without Z55 Autoride Suspension Package
BILSTEIN 24185950 B8...
I just ordered one from Rock Auto. $50 plus shipping. Mine is rusted to bad to not replace.
I'd be getting one if I were Tonyrodz
I hit a deer and it pushed the cooler into the condenser. See the florescent dye? Condenser was $62.
Just got this kit from Harbor Freight and used what worked. I had to use a bigger one in the middle of the a-arm so I could bend it down towards the bottom of the arm. Used factory holes.
Changed from zip ties to rubber coated clamps for my brake lines and brake sensor cables. Pulled out the sensors and cleaned them so hopefully the anti lock will quit kicking in at 5 mph when I am parking. I've almost hit other trucks in the parking space ahead of me because of the anti lock...
If it is behind the rear axle then it is mostly cosmetic. Rear bumper aligning with the body and such. May make a difference when towing depending on what you would be towing. Personally, I would continue to drive it and figure out how to twist it back myself. You may can remover the rear bumper...
Just keep driving it. You don't need permission. Is it twisted behind the rear axle or in front? Take it to get a four wheel alignment and don't say anything to the shop about the twist. If they can align it then you are good to go.
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