milkee2936
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2014
- Posts
- 4
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Would like an update to this thread???
'07 Sub 5.3, needs replacement engine, really?!?!
- Thread starter mattt
- Start date
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992dr
Full Access Member
I'm also in for an update.
As for the #8 plug, grab yourself a 1" extension for your ratchet. That'll make life a whole lot easier.
As for the #8 plug, grab yourself a 1" extension for your ratchet. That'll make life a whole lot easier.
Well, it ran good for another 4-6 weeks, then started up with misfires. The misfire moved to cyl 7 this time, so that plug was replaced as well. The shocking thing about #7 was the fact that ALL of the porcelain from the plug electrode center was gone. Not most of it....all of it. No porcelain left. I've never seen a plug do what that one did. After #7 plug was replaced it ran good with no misfire code coming up any longer. I ran some Seafoam in the fuel(dumped in tank with about 10g) and in the oil for 3-4 days, then did an oil change. I still think the problem is with the Suburban and the burning oil situation might have accelerated after the Seafoam treatment.
Quickest, most expensive way to deal with the problem......took a new '15 home within the last week. It cost more than a new engine, but I was over the '07 and it's ongoing issues.
I thought about calling Chevrolet to ask for some assistance on the 07, but never did. Anyone else been successful getting them to pick up some of the tab for the crappy 07 AFM issues that wreak havoc on an otherwise good engine?
Quickest, most expensive way to deal with the problem......took a new '15 home within the last week. It cost more than a new engine, but I was over the '07 and it's ongoing issues.
I thought about calling Chevrolet to ask for some assistance on the 07, but never did. Anyone else been successful getting them to pick up some of the tab for the crappy 07 AFM issues that wreak havoc on an otherwise good engine?
tallguyturbo
TYF Newbie
Congrats on the new truck!
I too experienced "low compression" on #6 (lifter eventually failed, stealer recommended engine replacement). Instead of buying the dealer a new yacht, I took the hot rod approach. Went to Tick Performance, bought all the AFM/DOD & VVT delete kits, did a ton of maintenance work (head gaskets, oil pump, timing chain, etc), mildly built the heads, upgraded the cam, installed long tubes. Cost me roughly 1/3 of what the dealer quoted me to replace the engine. Now my Tahoe sounds like a race car and has brought joy back into owning this thing.
I guess my point overall is stealerships are businesses. They don't have to employ ethics into their day to day operations and really have no interest taking care of the customer. I failed to buy into their diagnosis and feel great about taking care of the issue with a method of my choosing and coming out on top. Too anyone else out there who feels like their getting hassled....get other opinions and independent diagnosis before handing thousands over to the dealer. Not to mention, General Motors ROYALLY screwed us on this generation. Between the engine issues, dash cracks, and other annoying nuances they'll have to EARN my business back.
I too experienced "low compression" on #6 (lifter eventually failed, stealer recommended engine replacement). Instead of buying the dealer a new yacht, I took the hot rod approach. Went to Tick Performance, bought all the AFM/DOD & VVT delete kits, did a ton of maintenance work (head gaskets, oil pump, timing chain, etc), mildly built the heads, upgraded the cam, installed long tubes. Cost me roughly 1/3 of what the dealer quoted me to replace the engine. Now my Tahoe sounds like a race car and has brought joy back into owning this thing.
I guess my point overall is stealerships are businesses. They don't have to employ ethics into their day to day operations and really have no interest taking care of the customer. I failed to buy into their diagnosis and feel great about taking care of the issue with a method of my choosing and coming out on top. Too anyone else out there who feels like their getting hassled....get other opinions and independent diagnosis before handing thousands over to the dealer. Not to mention, General Motors ROYALLY screwed us on this generation. Between the engine issues, dash cracks, and other annoying nuances they'll have to EARN my business back.
992dr
Full Access Member
Getting rid of it is certainly the quickest way to resolve it, hah.
Congrats on the new ride.
tallguy,
I'm very interested in what you did to yours. The hot rod approach is more my style, hah. I'm planning on doing the same thing to mine by summer. Did you drop a cam in as well?
How long did it take from start to finish?
Congrats on the new ride.
tallguy,
I'm very interested in what you did to yours. The hot rod approach is more my style, hah. I'm planning on doing the same thing to mine by summer. Did you drop a cam in as well?
How long did it take from start to finish?
I'm surprised how few people are leaning on Chevy GM(Government Motors) Corporate to step up and offer assistance for an OBVIOUS design flaw. They need to have their feet held to the fire and feel the wrath of the consumer for not proactively offering a warranty FIX to any 2007 owner. GM should also reimburse any prior out of pocket repairs for the design flaws with AFM on 2007's.
Any class action attorneys reading this? I don't see how this known issue does not qualify under "unfit for use" "defective product" given that GM has a TSB about it and made changes that appear to have fixed the problem after 2009.
I have A LOT of regret with spending MORE money with Government Motors given their poor treatment of me in selling a defective, faulty 2007 AFM engine and not fixing it under warranty. The biggest reason I jumped at the new one I HAD to have a reliable vehicle very soon due to an upcoming 1000 mile trip.
Rewarding GM with new sales after the 2007 debacle is not right, but I was backed into a corner with the upcoming trip.
Any class action attorneys reading this? I don't see how this known issue does not qualify under "unfit for use" "defective product" given that GM has a TSB about it and made changes that appear to have fixed the problem after 2009.
I have A LOT of regret with spending MORE money with Government Motors given their poor treatment of me in selling a defective, faulty 2007 AFM engine and not fixing it under warranty. The biggest reason I jumped at the new one I HAD to have a reliable vehicle very soon due to an upcoming 1000 mile trip.
Rewarding GM with new sales after the 2007 debacle is not right, but I was backed into a corner with the upcoming trip.
tallguyturbo
TYF Newbie
I've definitely tried fighting GM. Unless you're first owner or have done extensive business with a specific dealer, they aren't doing a damn thing for you. They already have excuses lined up when you "bring it to their attention." Either you abused your vehicle (enigne), used armorall (dash crack), left it parked in the sun (chrome flashing on door handles), etc etc etc. They just pass the blame. They made a shit product and refuse to back their mistake. Hate that you were in a back against the wall situation.
992dr,
What part of NC are you in? I'm in Winston-Salem. I worked with Martin @ Tick Performance to buy all the parts for the "build". Their located in Mount Airy and are one of the best (if not the best) GM performance shops in the country. Nothing but positive experiences from them on my end.
Parts list:
AFM/DOD delete kit
VVT delete kit
LS7 lifters
Brian Tooley Valve Springs
SNS Stage 1 Cam
New pushrods
New OEM Head bolts
LS2 Timing Chain w/ tensioner
OEM Head Gasket kit
LS6 Oil Pump (I think I bought the ported one, but can't remember)
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Borla ProXS 40359
New Plugs
New Plug Wires
All accessory belts
Other small parts/various gaskets (Valve Cover gaskets, etc)
You don't have to do the VVT delete, I just went that route because 1.) Tick has a solid lineup on proven non VVT cams & 2.) more new parts I won't have to worry about anytime soon.
I have a good buddy who did the build for me. He's worked on my LS1 240SX, 300ZX TT, and SR20 240sx project. I'm a graduate student and travel weekly for my job so I didn't have the time commitment to do this project myself. I'd estimate this a solid two days worth of work. Maybe three. Don't forget you need to get the ECU tuned as well. I took mine up there for a basemap just so it could run and drive without tearing anything up until I could get on their tuners schedule. If I could do it again, I'd add a stall and shift kit to the parts list.
I'm currently fixing all the other small problems with the Tahoe to get it ready for sale. Cracked dash, dead switches, peeled door handles (interior & exterior). I'll create a thread as a journal for those doing the same. I'll be sure to put any great advice from my mechanic that would be helpful to others.
Some helpful threads:
http://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/how-to-delete-your-afm-dod-and-or-vvt-t71745-20.html
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/659175-Removing-DOD-hardware-amp-fitting-a-larger-camshaft
992dr,
What part of NC are you in? I'm in Winston-Salem. I worked with Martin @ Tick Performance to buy all the parts for the "build". Their located in Mount Airy and are one of the best (if not the best) GM performance shops in the country. Nothing but positive experiences from them on my end.
Parts list:
AFM/DOD delete kit
VVT delete kit
LS7 lifters
Brian Tooley Valve Springs
SNS Stage 1 Cam
New pushrods
New OEM Head bolts
LS2 Timing Chain w/ tensioner
OEM Head Gasket kit
LS6 Oil Pump (I think I bought the ported one, but can't remember)
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Borla ProXS 40359
New Plugs
New Plug Wires
All accessory belts
Other small parts/various gaskets (Valve Cover gaskets, etc)
You don't have to do the VVT delete, I just went that route because 1.) Tick has a solid lineup on proven non VVT cams & 2.) more new parts I won't have to worry about anytime soon.
I have a good buddy who did the build for me. He's worked on my LS1 240SX, 300ZX TT, and SR20 240sx project. I'm a graduate student and travel weekly for my job so I didn't have the time commitment to do this project myself. I'd estimate this a solid two days worth of work. Maybe three. Don't forget you need to get the ECU tuned as well. I took mine up there for a basemap just so it could run and drive without tearing anything up until I could get on their tuners schedule. If I could do it again, I'd add a stall and shift kit to the parts list.
I'm currently fixing all the other small problems with the Tahoe to get it ready for sale. Cracked dash, dead switches, peeled door handles (interior & exterior). I'll create a thread as a journal for those doing the same. I'll be sure to put any great advice from my mechanic that would be helpful to others.
Some helpful threads:
http://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/how-to-delete-your-afm-dod-and-or-vvt-t71745-20.html
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/659175-Removing-DOD-hardware-amp-fitting-a-larger-camshaft
Last edited:
992dr
Full Access Member
All good info, thank you.
How does your Tahoe run after the work?
I'm in Cary, just under Raleigh.
You're lucky to have a good relationship with Martin @ Tick. I have not been so fortunate with the shops around here.
I will be doing the work myself, after my experiences I have a hard time trusting anyone to work on my Tahoe.
I have a stall and shift kit jr. But, I may need a new stall. This will hopefully be diagnosed on the 23rd when I go to PCM of NC. Its a long story that's been drawn out for almost a year to do the day.
Hah, I have both of those links saved in my favorites. I look at them at least once a week.
How does your Tahoe run after the work?
I'm in Cary, just under Raleigh.
You're lucky to have a good relationship with Martin @ Tick. I have not been so fortunate with the shops around here.
I will be doing the work myself, after my experiences I have a hard time trusting anyone to work on my Tahoe.
I have a stall and shift kit jr. But, I may need a new stall. This will hopefully be diagnosed on the 23rd when I go to PCM of NC. Its a long story that's been drawn out for almost a year to do the day.
Hah, I have both of those links saved in my favorites. I look at them at least once a week.
