2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

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Dave
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Another question, the timing mark on the cam sprocket is sitting at about 8:00 o' clock. Before I remove it and the crank sprocket, should I line those up at TDC?

Also, if so, I assume I need to rotate the engine clockwise to get the timing marks to line up. Because of the distance of rotation I'll need to remove the plugs so it rotates easier?

Thanks,
Tim
It can be helpful to line up the timing marks before disassembly, but you don’t have to. The main benefit is just having everything lined up but you’re going to be rotating the camshaft independently anyway, so it really doesn’t matter.. The only thing that matters is lining it up upon assembly. No need to worry about removing the plugs. It’s easy enough to turn the crank with a breaker bar.
 

Rocket Man

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This how-to article covers the timing chain. You might bookmark it for future reference. Disassembly doesn’t matter like Dave said, just make sure to line them up on assembly and even though you’re pretty damn sure they’re lined up, I suggest turning the engine over by hand once complete revolution of the crank and check again. It will be obvious if you’re off a tooth, plus you’ll know nothing internal is hitting. I definitely recommend pulling the plugs, turning it over with compression is a bi*ch imo.
 
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Plimbob

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Thanks Guys - I was going to use motor oil but thought I would ask you guys as you are way more knowledgeable than I am about this process.

Is there soemthing special about pulling the crank sprocket, I am having a heck of a time getting a three jaw puller that fits worth a crap and will grab.
 

iamdub

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Is there soemthing special about pulling the crank sprocket, I am having a heck of a time getting a three jaw puller that fits worth a crap and will grab.

I've always used one from a set from Harbor Freight. I did have to grind the claws for a better grip on the pulley. When it bottoms out, I back it off and use a cheap socket as a spacer and go back at it. The pulley pops off soon after that. It is a bit of a fight to hold all three jaws in place until you get some tension on them.
 

Rocket Man

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I use Comp Cams assembly lube. It's sticky stuff. But lots of people use motor oil too, and seem to have no problems. The reason I use assembly lube is in case I have to wait a few weeks to do the first start.
What’s the difference between that and a rig that gets parked for weeks without being started? Once a valvetrain is lubed it’s gtg until the next time the engine is started as far as I know.
 

iamdub

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What’s the difference between that and a rig that gets parked for weeks without being started? Once a valvetrain is lubed it’s gtg until the next time the engine is started as far as I know.

I think the point of assembly lube is that it's heavy with molybdenum and other super slippery ingredients in a medium that is thick and sticks better than oil. It's to ensure the new parts that haven't bedded in to their abutting parts don't drag/jam immediately following the first start. After a few seconds, it's all flushed away by engine oil. But, the lubricating properties are still all in that oil.

I run diesel oil for the strong zinc and moly content. I dump in a bottle of Lucas ZDDP additive every other oil change just to be extra and make the guys at Blackstone pop böners. Diesel oil and that ZDDP additive are not supposed to be ran in an engine that has cats cuz, supposedly, zinc will kill the cat(s).
 

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