2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

[iamdub]

@ IAMDUB, I have a set from Harbor Freight. I'll grind the tops of the claws flat so they can slip in behind the sprocket. Do you recall if you used the 3 inch or the four inch?

I wanted to check because I thought maybe there was a special puller for that sprocket.

I don't remember which. I just know which one out of the set because it has rusted flat spots where I ground it.

 

[iamdub]

Update - I made one last ditch effort and went to our local farm implement store and bought a different 3 jaw puller which had flatter heads.

1. I ground the heads down further to get them even flatter on top.
2. I then used a short m16 x20 which would not reach the inside threads but turn on the crank stub. I greased the area where the bolt would sit in the crank stub.
3. The push rod for the puller had a point so I ground that flat as well so it wouldn't dance on the bolt head.
4. I attached the puller (grabbed much better) and put tension on it.
5. Heated the sprocket and added a little more tension and let it sit for 30-45 minutes, came back heated it again and put more pressure on it. Let it sit for another 30 minutes. The third time I heated it and put more pressure on it.
6. About the time I was going to lay off, I felt it give ever so slightly. So I continued the heat and pressure and it slowly came off. It took quite a bit of pressure to get it to budge.

I have had enough for a day, I'll install the new one tomorrow and get on with the rest of the reassembly. I assume you should use motor oil or assembly lube when putting the crank sprocket back on?

Thanks to you all for your continued help!
Tim

Just for future knowledge, I chose to keep that centering point on my pullers. I use a cheap 3/8" drive socket from a box of miscellaneous extras. I put the point of the puller in that square 3/8" drive side. It also takes up some space so I don't have to turn the screw part in as much.

 

[Plimbob]

A few questions regarding assembly:
1. Should you lubricate the crank stub prior to installing the sprocket? In a few videos I watched I don't see anyone doing that?
2. Can you use the original cam bolt?
2. Is it alright to lube the install screw going into the crank, or will that cause issues with the balancer bolt holding once torqued?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[iamdub]

A few questions regarding assembly:
1. Should you lubricate the crank stub prior to installing the sprocket? In a few videos I watched I don't see anyone doing that?
2. Can you use the original cam bolt?
2. Is it alright to lube the install screw going into the crank, or will that cause issues with the balancer bolt holding once torqued?

Thanks,
Tim

1. No. Heat it in an oven and hold it with an oven mitt or Channellocks when installing.

2. It's not TTY and, therefore, reusable.

3. I wouldn't. At least, with the OEM bolt, it has dry threadlocker applied already. There should be no reason to need lubricant on this. Clean the threads in the crank thoroughly. If you go back with an OEM TTY bolt, here's how I torque 'em: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1428052

 

[Plimbob]

Update - used the method IAMDUB suggested above for installing the crank sprocket, I also added some cold to the crank shaft and it went on like a greased pig.

However, I am now having a heck of a time getting the cam sprocket to seat. I have taken it off and on 4-5 times and I always get to the point where the little dowel is just started into the hole but I can't get it to slip on. I wiggled it top/bottom, I loosed the tensioner to try and give it some slack but it still will not slip up and on. It seems like it needs to come up every so slightly to slip on but just can't get it there.

I also moved the crank ever so slightly to make sure I have the chain seated properly to see if it would allow it to slip on NADA.

I thought I might not have the crank sprocket seating completely and it was throwing the chain alignment off but the key is to the edge of the collar and its up tight to the crank. I even when back and put the installer back in and put more pressure on it and it didn't move it.

I bought the kit from Rockauto and its a Cloyes, I got to wondering if they sent me the correct kit. I went to the Cloyes site and they list the same part 94205SA for my 07 as what I purchased from RockAuto. However, on the RA site it states it is for an LY2 and mine is an LMG?

I added a couple of pictures, crank sprocket showing placement of the key and the timing marks which I believe I have lined up properly

.

Gents - any thoughts on what I am doing wrong?

 

[OR VietVet]

Separate question and may have already been addressed but I did not read the whole thread. Are the cam bearings ever a concern when doing the AFM delete?

 

[Geotrash]

Update - used the method IAMDUB suggested above for installing the crank sprocket, I also added some cold to the crank shaft and it went on like a greased pig.

However, I am now having a heck of a time getting the cam sprocket to seat. I have taken it off and on 4-5 times and I always get to the point where the little dowel is just started into the hole but I can't get it to slip on. I wiggled it top/bottom, I loosed the tensioner to try and give it some slack but it still will not slip up and on. It seems like it needs to come up every so slightly to slip on but just can't get it there.

I also moved the crank ever so slightly to make sure I have the chain seated properly to see if it would allow it to slip on NADA.

I thought I might not have the crank sprocket seating completely and it was throwing the chain alignment off but the key is to the edge of the collar and its up tight to the crank. I even when back and put the installer back in and put more pressure on it and it didn't move it.

I bought the kit from Rockauto and its a Cloyes, I got to wondering if they sent me the correct kit. I went to the Cloyes site and they list the same part 94205SA for my 07 as what I purchased from RockAuto. However, on the RA site it states it is for an LY2 and mine is an LMG?

I added a couple of pictures, crank sprocket showing placement of the key and the timing marks which I believe I have lined up properly

View attachment 374794View attachment 374795.

Gents - any thoughts on what I am doing wrong?

Push that tensioner on the left away from the chain to get some slack.

 

[Plimbob]

I'll try that Dave, I thought about removing the bolts and let the tensioner free and then attaching? Also, maybe heating the chain and the sprocket to see if that would help?

 

[Geotrash]

I'll try that Dave, I thought about removing the bolts and let the tensioner free and then attaching? Also, maybe heating the chain and the sprocket to see if that would help?

I don't think heating the chain or the sprocket will help, but doing whatever is needed for the tensioner to release its pressure on the chain should do the trick.

 

[Plimbob]

I spoke with the Cloyes tech dept and the gentlemen told me I have the right kit but he thinks the tolerances may be off between the cam gear and chain. He thinks one may be max tolerance and the other min tolerance. He stated, it shouldn't be that tight and suggested I return it to RockAuto and get another. I am not thrilled with the idea but I guess there is a lesson to be learned here, I should have have bought GM.