2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

[iamdub]

Lol at "gluten" for punishment.

 

[iamdub]

Update - used the method IAMDUB suggested above for installing the crank sprocket, I also added some cold to the crank shaft and it went on like a greased pig.

However, I am now having a heck of a time getting the cam sprocket to seat. I have taken it off and on 4-5 times and I always get to the point where the little dowel is just started into the hole but I can't get it to slip on. I wiggled it top/bottom, I loosed the tensioner to try and give it some slack but it still will not slip up and on. It seems like it needs to come up every so slightly to slip on but just can't get it there.

I also moved the crank ever so slightly to make sure I have the chain seated properly to see if it would allow it to slip on NADA.

I thought I might not have the crank sprocket seating completely and it was throwing the chain alignment off but the key is to the edge of the collar and its up tight to the crank. I even when back and put the installer back in and put more pressure on it and it didn't move it.

I bought the kit from Rockauto and its a Cloyes, I got to wondering if they sent me the correct kit. I went to the Cloyes site and they list the same part 94205SA for my 07 as what I purchased from RockAuto. However, on the RA site it states it is for an LY2 and mine is an LMG?

I added a couple of pictures, crank sprocket showing placement of the key and the timing marks which I believe I have lined up properly

View attachment 374794View attachment 374795.

Gents - any thoughts on what I am doing wrong?

Like @Geotrash mentioned, get that tensioner off the chain so you're not fighting it. When you swing it to the right, there's a hole you can slip a tiny screwdriver or nail into to hold it.

 

[iamdub]

Update -

I picked up a GM chain to marry up to the two Cloyes sprockets, still would not go on. I resorted to removing the new Cloyes crank sprocket, I looked at the new/old and with a naked eye I could not see any difference. So I put the old one back on, used the Cloyes cam sprocket and the GM chain and was able to seat the cam sprocket.

I do have a question regarding the torque of the cam bolt, it's a single bolt and calls for 55 lbs then 50 degrees. I don't have a torque wrench that measures degrees. Any thoughts on how to get to the 50 degree point without one?

I'm worried that you have a Gen 3 crank sprocket. They're 1/2 a tooth offset from the Gen 4. You can test this by just putting the chain on (lock the tensioner outta the way) and ignoring the timing marks. If it goes on, this is probably what's throwing you off.

For the specs that call for X degrees of rotation, you can use an angle gauge or refer to my method in that link I posted about the crank pulley. I use a protractor to put marks on the pulley. I mark the bolt after torqueing it, then turn it until the mark on the bolt lines up with the other mark on the pulley at the specified X degrees. I marked the cylinder heads just the same so I could achieve those TTY specs without having to set up a torque angle gauge for each bolt or try to squeeze it in under the wiper cowl.

 

[Plimbob]

Just got the angle gauge this afternoon and plan to torque the cam bolt in the morning. Should you use Loctite on it?
I have the Loctite Red - medium strength?

Also, do you leave the timing cover a littel loose until the balancer is back on then fully tighten so the seal centers?

 

[Geotrash]

Just got the angle gauge this afternoon and plan to torque the cam bolt in the morning. Should you use Loctite on it?
I have the Loctite Red - medium strength?

Also, do you leave the timing cover a littel loose until the balancer is back on then fully tighten so the seal centers?

No Loctite is needed. Especially not the red, or you’ll never get it out.

And yes, leave the bolts on the timing cover loose until you can properly center the crank shaft with the correct tool.

 

[iamdub]

Just got the angle gauge this afternoon and plan to torque the cam bolt in the morning. Should you use Loctite on it?
I have the Loctite Red - medium strength?

Also, do you leave the timing cover a littel loose until the balancer is back on then fully tighten so the seal centers?

Until today, all I knew of was the really expensive Kent-Moore tools that GM techs use or the SacCity Corvette jigs that are $100+. Saw these today on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Front-Cover-...ocphy=9025338&hvtargid=pla-942560236762&psc=1

For under $40, they'd be great insurance against a short-lived front or rear seal.

 

[Plimbob]

Guys, a question regarding the balancer. I have read you can heat the balancer to improve install and conversely, you shouldn't heat it due to possible damage to the seal? It would seem if it was heated to 100 degrees or so it shouldn't hurt the seal?

Also, does it make a difference where the holes on the outside are positioned upon install?

 

[Rocket Man]

Guys, a question regarding the balancer. I have read you can heat the balancer to improve install and conversely, you shouldn't heat it due to possible damage to the seal? It would seem if it was heated to 100 degrees or so it shouldn't hurt the seal?

Also, does it make a difference where the holes on the outside are positioned upon install?

You don’t need to heat it up. And no on the positioning, the balancer isn’t keyed. If it mattered, there would be a key way so it could only go on in a certain position.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Separate question and may have already been addressed but I did not read the whole thread. Are the cam bearings ever a concern when doing the AFM delete?

@OR VietVet Here is what I found while doing my AFM delete, I left them and installed my new cam on top of them.

 

[Geotrash]

@OR VietVet Here is what I found while doing my AFM delete, I left them and installed my new cam on top of them.
View attachment 376058

Yep - I think that was the right call. The almost looks more like residue than wear.