This is like the perfect build and even better you are doing the tuning. Any reason you running it so rich and is that only at WOT or stoich? My wideband doesnt show anything other than stoich until mayne 3/4 throttle. Not sure if that my tuning or normal. Wondering how much mileage you gain once propeely leaned out.
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Thank you, it is definitely coming around finally and feels good to have it back on the road... As for the AFR being rich, it's a new motor with new 5" MAF & intake. Setting up the airflow values and torque scaling for this thing were not an easy process. Much rather run it rich to be safe than sorry with this much into the build. Now I know my MAF is dialed in and my wideband is giving me good readings, I can lean it out and add some timing to make some real power (as if it even needs more lol). The AFR you saw was at WOT, I believe it was 10.5 to 11.1 or so on that run. I've got a lot of room for improvement but rich is always better than lean. These motors do tend to make more power when running on the rich side. Cruising, it's commanding 13.94 and running @ 14.2 to 14.9... Could also lean that out to 15 - 15.5 for better MPG. OEM runs even leaner
Matt's Yukon is going to do the same once she's dialed in. Matt, if he hasn't done so already, should get an AXN 9.5" semi-floating rear axle like Randy did and maybe even beef up his front one. The 6L80s are handling over 700 horsepower these days too.
There's one thing about having quick numbers at the track, but the street slows things way down. For example, my '85 Buick was dialed in to run 13.77 street or track and it would kill 12-second Mustangs when street racing. Get those boys to just chirp their tires for a moment and it was all over for them.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the rear end yet. A 14 bolt would be a straight bolt up for the most part, might have to space out the panhard bar bc the larger cover and I've considered doing it. Honestly I was just going to throw a TrueTrac in the 10 bolt and see what happens. The rear differential is original with a G80 and 160k miles. The 14 bolt uses the 10 bolt axles anyways, so with quality bearings and a good center section, that 10 bolt will be just fine. Being AWD, 40% of that power is going to the front BW4485 transfer case (also original). You would have to be making 1,000hp + at the wheels and dead hook to blow up a properly built 10 bolt with 40% power going to the front, IMO.
I just rebuilt my front 8.25" IFS differential, unfortunately there is nothing you can do to beef them up. No one sells a posi or limited slip for them, it's an open diff. Again, you gotta be making a ton of power to break one since 1000whp, the front diff only sees 400whp of that. Transfer case will go first but we shall see... I have a chain for it and will rebuild with new bearings if needed. Front 8.25" diff usually cracks the housing before anything else. Gotta have a week point somewhere, as much as I hate to say it.
