400+ horsepower?

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Peter Nelson

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Was wondering if it would be possible for my 2010 5.3 to push 400-450 horsepower? I don’t want it to throw any codes and make my gauge cluster light up like the 4th of July. Cam, heads, Intake and some long tube headers? Which parts do it get?
 

swathdiver

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Was wondering if it would be possible for my 2010 5.3 to push 400-450 horsepower? I don’t want it to throw any codes and make my gauge cluster light up like the 4th of July. Cam, heads, Intake and some long tube headers? Which parts do it get?

What is your budget? Forced air or naturally aspirated? Lots of ways to skin that squirrel.
 

drakon543

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your only downside is your concern of dash lights. you wont hit those numbers without tuning. proper tuning will solve all your dash light concerns but a good tuning will solve most lights unless you have an actual problem causing it.
 
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Peter Nelson

Peter Nelson

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your only downside is your concern of dash lights. you wont hit those numbers without tuning. proper tuning will solve all your dash light concerns but a good tuning will solve most lights unless you have an actual problem causing it.
Okay so if I did this I’d have to have it tuned?
 
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Peter Nelson

Peter Nelson

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What is your budget? Forced air or naturally aspirated? Lots of ways to skin that squirrel.
Not really sure of the budget right now. This just in theory, if I had no budget to go by, what would be the best most reliable parts to get 400-450 horsepower? Natural aspirated.
 

Mechanic421

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the cheapest way would be cam,lifters,beehive springs,.080 wall pushrods,headers(but some people swear by stock manifolds) larger injectors and tuning. Exhaust and duel valve springs would be recommended. Double value springs and exhaust can be added later if on a budget. I am not sure but 2010 5.3 is already in the 300 plus range! How many miles does it have? Larger cams with double valve springs and high mile cam bearings do not mix well.
 
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iamdub

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I tore mine down to do what it needed anyway- an AFM delete. This requires new lifters and a cam. Of course, you'd wanna replace all the usual wear items while you're in there (oil pump, timing set, gaskets, etc.). I originally planned on an L33 cam which is a stock Gen3 cam that has the same profile as the Gen4 cam but without the AFM lobes. This would've required no tuning, but it would've been just like stock with the stock power output. A buddy offered me a nice cam for cheap, so that changed everything. Since I was getting the heads cleaned up, including a light shave on the surfaces just to clean and true them, I decided to get .020" shaved off to raise the compression a little and the bowls blended to improve the flow a hair. Since new head gaskets are already on the parts list, I spent a "little" extra on some thinner ones to tighten the quench height. The cam I have is shown to yield around 50HP. The raised compression and mild headwork should be good for around 20HP and definitely more torque across the board. These engines are spec'ed to produce 326HP/348TQ on E85, and 11HP/17TQ less on regular unleaded. If possible, I plan to maximize the E85 tune. So, 326+50+20= 396. A tune is a must and I'm sure 5-10HP could be found in that, conservatively. Between the intake and freer-flowing exhaust, I'm expecting about 400HP at the flywheel. I tossed in a mild stall converter to help make it feel and act even stronger.

So, my main point is that 400HP is easily doable. It's especially easier to do when you weasel other parts in while you're "performing maintenance/longevity repairs".
 

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