Just did my driver side mount on my 07 4wd tahoe. Pretty straight forward job. Removed wheel, wheel liner and manifold heat shield. Broke loose mount bolts, supported engine, removed mount bolts, jacked engine up, removed mount. Wasn't the easiest getting the mount itself out of the engine bay but I managed to get it through the wheel well so I could leave the steering shaft in place. Hope this helps fellow owners.
Broken Motor Mounts
- Thread starter osidesurfer365
- Start date
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James Manning
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My GMC 07 Yukon SLT have the same right motor mount problem. I've been reading the all the post, I just don't understand why GM don't want to do a campaign on this fix. My question: Is this supposed to be professional grade?
YukonCrazy
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Where on the engine did you jack it up? I have read you may not want to jack up on the oil pan is it may warp and then cause internal issue. Thanks fr the reply.
The little rectangular area in the back where your not supposed to. A 2x4 fits in that space. I also took the two trans mount nuts off just incase it needed more wiggle room. Probably not needed, but an easy task.
Clean07Burb
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When the original GM mount broke, I replaced it with an aftermarket Anchor branded mount. This was a mistake because it lasted less than a year. I just installed a new GM mount today. We'll see how long it lasts...
Clean07Burb
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I also used the rear, flat portion of the oil pan as a jack point to lift to motor enough to massage the old mount out and the new one in. It won't hurt the pan as long as you're careful and don't go crazy with it.
I remove the entire front differential to gain easy access to the mount. Sounds difficult, but it isnt. Takes about 20 minutes to drop it down and out of the way and it makes the job MUCH easier.
I remove the entire front differential to gain easy access to the mount. Sounds difficult, but it isnt. Takes about 20 minutes to drop it down and out of the way and it makes the job MUCH easier.
Clean07Burb
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You're not going to warp a cast aluminum oil pan. If anything, it would crack. As I said previously, just go slow and you'll be fine.
Clean07Burb
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@08grey
It's really simple, man. Just unbolt the inboard side of both front axles and let them hang from the hubs. Then unplug your front diff 4WD actuator. After that you've got four bolts that hold the entire diff in place, two on each side. Unbolt them and the whole thing drops right out. Slide it out of the way and then lift the motor with a floor jack and a piece of wood via oil pan. This gives you a straight shot at the driver's side mount. Unlbolt the three mount to frame bolts from up top after bending the heat shield out of the way and then unbolt the four mount to block bolts from underneath the truck. With the motor jacked up a few inches you'll be able to sneak the old mount out and the new mount in. There's an index pin made into the mount so once you drop the new mount into place it automatically lines up all seven bolt holes required to hold it in place. It's about a two hour job on the floor and about an hour job with the truck in the air. Not sure why dealers and local shops are quoting $500+ in labor. Especially the dealer, as I'm sure they've got this down to a science and can knock them out in about 45 minutes.
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YukonCrazy
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My Yukon is 2 wheel drive. What do I need to remove in order to get to those top bolts on the mount?
