Burning oil

[NardDog]

Replace your drivers side valve cover with the dorman 264-969 as a start for the oil burning issue. Change your plugs and cylinder 5 will most likely be getting oil build up on it from the oil burning problem causing the misfire, then run penzoil 5w30 synthetic high mileage formula with a half bottle of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. That is the best formula I could come up with after trial and error for the typical oil burning problem on some of these engines. I did it this way to try and make the oil stickier so it doesn't spash around as much, and it has been taking engines that were burning a liter of oil per 800 kms (i am Canadian eh,) down to a liter of oil every 2000 to 2500 kms, wich is livable.

Then pull your oil pressure sensor and oil pressure screen, throw the screen in the garbage, put in a new sensor with no screen, and change your oil every 4 thousand miles.

Then turn off the dod system with a tune.

My truck was burning some serious amounts of oil for a long time. It didn’t ruin the Cats until last year. Since then I ran Amsoils engine flush and my oil consumption has been cut in half. Either the piston rings were stuck or valves were letting oil thru not sure which but the flush really helped me.

 

[Lil Timmy Shy]

My truck was burning some serious amounts of oil for a long time. It didn’t ruin the Cats until last year. Since then I ran Amsoils engine flush and my oil consumption has been cut in half. Either the piston rings were stuck or valves were letting oil thru not sure which but the flush really helped me.

I seriously wonder.......... what would happen if you did another Amsoil flush - and then another - and then another - and then another, ad nauseum. Maybe your engine would get to the point it wasn't using any oil? I am very fortunate so far; no oil consumption, and no slipping tranny. But, I am only at 37K on my 2014. However, I am meticulous about changing oil on schedule with synthetic blend, and having the tranny serviced faithfully. And I have an AFM delete. Plus, I baby the transmission as far as shifting it hard via rapid launches, etc.
If I had it to do all over again, I'd have kept my 2003 with 230K on the clock. What a fool I was.........

 

[Charlie207]

I seriously wonder.......... what would happen if you did another Amsoil flush - and then another - and then another - and then another, ad nauseum. Maybe your engine would get to the point it wasn't using any oil? I am very fortunate so far; no oil consumption, and no slipping tranny. But, I am only at 37K on my 2014. However, I am meticulous about changing oil on schedule with synthetic blend, and having the tranny serviced faithfully. And I have an AFM delete. Plus, I baby the transmission as far as shifting it hard via rapid launches, etc.
If I had it to do all over again, I'd have kept my 2003 with 230K on the clock. What a fool I was.........

The GMT900s are fine. If you upgrade the torque converter and ensure proper fluid cooling (well known/well documented issues), you should be fine to drive it normally.

 

[RET423]

The rotten egg smell means at least one bank is running rich, if it's not throwing a code for that it means the 02 sensor is not reporting the rich condition so it's likely reporting a false lean condition & the PCM is trying to compensate by dumping more fuel

A quick test is unplug both primary 02 sensors & start the car, it will throw a code but if the rotten egg smell is gone then you know you need to replace the primary 02 sensors

Good luck!

 

[Lil Timmy Shy]

The GMT900s are fine. If you upgrade the torque converter and ensure proper fluid cooling (well known/well documented issues), you should be fine to drive it normally.

Yeah, I've been hearing about how "fine" they are at every transmission shop I've ever queried about the 6L80e reliability. I am hoping that since my unit has never had the "transmission cooker" thermostat in the cooling block line, that I will dodge that bullet. But, it still has a notoriously weak torque converter. Then, all I will have to fret with is the notorious AFM valve train issues/oil consumption, etc.........

 

[Airman68]

I agree with the stock air filter, plenty good for everyday driving. One thing I didn't see is the AFM issues. If it were me, I would disable the AFM to try to prevent any issues down the line. Very easy to do. Amazon sells modules you can plug into the OBD port. I have a 2008 with 210k miles. runs great, doesn't burn much oil, just need to keep an eye on it. Overall your truck looks very nice and clean.

 

[EddieC]

I learned my lesson on fancy intake/filter setups on a C5 Corvette. The one I bought claimed 30+ hp increase; My seat of the pants dyno didn't feel it. The only noticeable change was a bit more intake noise. Well there was one other advantage because it impressed the banker who bought it from me but then again he didn't know how to drive stick (which it was).

I think GM and most manufacturers put much time into and know what is best for their engines.

 

[EddieC]

My truck was burning some serious amounts of oil for a long time. It didn’t ruin the Cats until last year. Since then I ran Amsoils engine flush and my oil consumption has been cut in half. Either the piston rings were stuck or valves were letting oil thru not sure which but the flush really helped me.

I recently saw Valvoline Restore and Protect motor oil. Any thoughts on that?

 

[Charlie207]

I recently saw Valvoline Restore and Protect motor oil. Any thoughts on that?

A bunch of folks are running it on this site. I think there is a dedicated thread.

I had it in my last engine, and it definitely was removing deposits, based on the dark color coming out of the oil pan. I just threw some in my 2nd engine, but doubt it'll do as much cleaning on a fresh build.

 

[NardDog]

I recently saw Valvoline Restore and Protect motor oil. Any thoughts on that?

Never tried this one.