Don’t forget to flush your brake system - 3yrs or 45k

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bottomline2000

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Posts
1,722
Reaction score
988
Location
Dallas, TX
How do you go about flushing the brakes, anyway?
I used a motive brake bleeder. It was easier to top off the reservoir with clean fluid and then pressurize the motive bleeder. I made a catch bottle from an old Gatorade bottle and clear 3/16 fuel tubing. Start at the caliper furtherest from the master cylinder. Connect the catch bottle to the bleeder valve on the caliper and open it and wait for the fluid to become clear then close it. I cycled thru mine a couple of times to be sure it was clean.

Like it's been said be sure to not let the master cylinder run dry or you will force air in the system. The cool thing about the motive bleeder is you can add fluid to the bottle so you don't have to worry as much about running the MC dry. The bad is you have to clean it afterwards.

I have an 00 Tahoe but I have 2012 Escalade brakes on the front so no difference in bleeding.4eab0d86870554c77021b97e412ae675.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 

UFBeef

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Posts
40
Reaction score
12
Tried to do mine today, apparently I need a really thin wrench to get to those bleeder valves with a drain hose on them, pia.
 

bottomline2000

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Posts
1,722
Reaction score
988
Location
Dallas, TX
Tried to do mine today, apparently I need a really thin wrench to get to those bleeder valves with a drain hose on them, pia.
I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
SuperOldSchool

SuperOldSchool

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Posts
136
Reaction score
121
I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

.


I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk


Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I cracked it with the box end, put Mity Vac or tubing on bleeder, then open rest of way with open end . It’s easy to round bleeders, so I would recommend use/ start with box end.
 

bottomline2000

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Posts
1,722
Reaction score
988
Location
Dallas, TX
.





Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I cracked it with the box end, put Mity Vac or tubing on bleeder, then open rest of way with open end . It’s easy to round bleeders, so I would recommend use/ start with box end.
I used the closed end. I just slid it up the tube and moved on to the next caliper and slid the wrench down on the next bleeder.

I also found it easier to pressure bleed vs vacuum bleed the system. I still have my vacuum bleeder brand new from Harbour Freight. Seemed overly complicated and higher risk of getting air in the system.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Silent D

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
76
Reaction score
26
.Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.
 
OP
OP
SuperOldSchool

SuperOldSchool

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Posts
136
Reaction score
121
I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.

That sucks , sorry to hear they rounded off and were frozen. Next time spray some PB Blaster or other penetrant on them the week before you plan to do it and that will help dissolve any corrosion locking them up.

I noticed they were really tight - was first time they were cracked open. I didn’t torque them down as hard when I was done.

What pads and rotors did you end up getting? I see folks buying all kinds of slotted and drilled kits, but I have been pretty happy with the stock Parts so far.
I’ll need to do all four probably this summer - got 53k on them so far, not bad for a 3 ton vehicle in my opinion...
 

Silent D

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
76
Reaction score
26
That sucks , sorry to hear they rounded off and were frozen. Next time spray some PB Blaster or other penetrant on them the week before you plan to do it and that will help dissolve any corrosion locking them up.

I noticed they were really tight - was first time they were cracked open. I didn’t torque them down as hard when I was done.

What pads and rotors did you end up getting? I see folks buying all kinds of slotted and drilled kits, but I have been pretty happy with the stock Parts so far.
I’ll need to do all four probably this summer - got 53k on them so far, not bad for a 3 ton vehicle in my opinion...

Oh I didn't drive it and soaked them in PB Blaster for 2 days before I started.

I ended up going with the Duralast Max pads and resurfacing the rotors. I really like the durmast Max pads; they are quiet, haven't noticed any dust, really smooth and stop a lot better than the stock Delco's. They are pricey ($76/rears, $55/fronts) but since I tow a boat pretty regularly I figured it would be worth the upgrade.
 
OP
OP
SuperOldSchool

SuperOldSchool

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Posts
136
Reaction score
121
OP here with update.

It’s almost exactly 1 year since the first full system flush. Now at 70k and I put new rear rotors and pads on, flushed again on rear calipers:

DE8B5050-5F56-46B1-96A5-A3ECE3103C06.jpeg

Fluid gets dirty quickly.

I put front pads and rotors on at about 60k, and flushed front calipers at that time.


I think I’ll do annual flushes going forward.

Take it for what it’s worth. I like clean fluids in my vehicles.

Have a great day!
SoS
 

new2yukon

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2014
Posts
224
Reaction score
149
I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.
Why did the speed bleeders suck? Was thinking of getting 1 or 4 and do a temp install for bleeding or a permanent install of them.

Curious of your experience.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,199
Posts
1,863,910
Members
96,725
Latest member
CBB0005
Top