Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

I really hate that you've started shortening your posts. I wanted you to keep up with the super duper detailed experience logs.

Sry. Hd 2 gt bk 2 wrk on Taho. Yal gon hav 2 jst fil n da blnks.

 

[iamdub]

Giggity Giggity !!!

Can't wait... but I guess I will.

So far, it seems to be operating how I've read how the stock system operates. My stock shock bags were blown and compressor roached when I bought my Tahoe so I've never personally experienced how it's supposed to work.

The bags fit firmly in place with no room for up or down movement, so any air pressure added to them won't be "wasted". This is ideal since they operate at a fraction of the pressure that the stock sleeves did and they don't "grow" as much. They need to be able to lift the rear to it's normal height with as little input from the compressor as possible, so any wasted travel is an issue. These fitting so well inside the TJ coils is yet another star aligning.




I unclipped the connector from the end of the stock air line and slid it back a few inches which left me with a bulb flared end. I pushed it into the Air Lift air line and it seems to be holding fine. I planned on backfilling the hose with epoxy to make the connection permanent and to ensure a seal, but that may not be necessary, at least not while I'm testing. I shoved it in further after this pic.




I need the system to think that the current, lowered height is the appropriate ride height. Otherwise, it'd think I had so much weight that it was sagging 4" and it'd try to air it up that 4". The Air Lift bags would explode long before it ever reached that height. To accomplish this, I shortened the sensor links to align the marks I made when it was at stock height. I removed the links, positioned the sensor arm to align the marks, then measured for the link length. I made the links out of a 6" piece of stainless 10-24 all thread rod. Just pulled the ends off the original link bars and threaded the stainless rod into them.

Before:



After:




I plugged in the fuse for the ALC compressor and turned the key on. After about 5-10 seconds, the exhaust valve clicked (system test) then the compressor came on for about 5 seconds. The bags firmed up a little and the rear lifted about 1/2". As far as I know, this is how the stock system works. I may shorten the links a hair cuz I really like the full 4" drop.

Bag snugly in place inside the TJ coil:



On the test drive, I might have detected a slight bit firmer ride. It was too minimal to know for sure. So far, I'm guessing I could call this is a "win". I need to test it loaded, so I'll use my crawfish pot idea to squat the rear about an inch, turn the key on to see if it lifts back to the same point, add more water to drop it another inch, etc.

 

[kbuskill]

So far, it seems to be operating how I've read how the stock system operates. My stock shock bags were blown and compressor roached when I bought my Tahoe so I've never personally experienced how it's supposed to work.

The bags fit firmly in place with no room for up or down movement, so any air pressure added to them won't be "wasted". This is ideal since they operate at a fraction of the pressure that the stock sleeves did and they don't "grow" as much. They need to be able to lift the rear to it's normal height with as little input from the compressor as possible, so any wasted travel is an issue. These fitting so well inside the TJ coils is yet another star aligning.

View attachment 239869


I unclipped the connector from the end of the stock air line and slid it back a few inches, which left me with a bulb flared end. I pushed it into the Air Lift air line and it seems to be holding fine. I planned on backfilling the hose with epoxy to make the connection permanent and to ensure a seal, but that may not be necessary, at least not while I'm testing. I shoved it in further after this pic.

View attachment 239858


I need the system think that the current, lowered height is the appropriate ride height. Otherwise, it'd think I had so much weight that it was sagging 4" and it'd try to air it up. The Air Lift bags would explode long before it ever reached that height. To accomplish this, I shortened the sensor links to align the marks I made when it was at stock height. I removed the links, positioned the sensor arm to align the marks, then measured for the link length. I made the links out of a 6" piece of stainless 10-24 all thread rod. Just pulled the ends off the original link bars and threaded the stainless rod into them.

Before:

View attachment 239866

After:

View attachment 239867


I plugged in the fuse for the ALC compressor and turned the key on. After about 5-10 seconds, the exhaust valve clicked (system test) then the compressor came on for about 5 seconds. The bags firmed up a little and the rear lifted about 1/2". As far as I know, this is how the stock system works. I may shorten the links a hair cuz I really like the full 4" drop.

Bag snugly in place inside the TJ coil:

View attachment 239868

On the test drive, I might have detected a slight bit firmer ride. It was too minimal to know for sure. So far, I'm guessing I could call this is a "win". I need to test it loaded, so I'll use my crawfish pot idea to squat the rear about an inch, turn the key on to see if it lifts back to the same point, add more water to drop it another inch, etc.

The next test, where you add extra weight, is really what I'm interested in.

I would be super interested to know what kind of pressure is in the bags currently and then again when its loaded down.

Since you are so thorough in your experimentation, I know you will put a gauge inline and report your findings...

Great job so far.

 

[iamdub]

The next test, where you add extra weight, is really what I'm interested in.

I would be super interested to know what kind of pressure is in the bags currently and then again when its loaded down.

Since you are so thorough in your experimentation, I know you will put a gauge inline and report your findings...

Great job so far.

As you can tell by the quick and simple connections I made to the factory air line, I was pressed for time. I really do want/need to monitor the pressures, even if just during the tests. I have some Ts and Schrader valves and plenty of air line left from an install kit. I think I could quickly splice that into the connection between the factory and Air Lift lines. I'd just measure the pressure with a regular tire pressure gauge. Besides, it'd be really convenient to have a way to drain the bags other than pulling the lines apart while I'm sorting out my ride height with the bags pressurized. I'm really missing that .5-.75" drop I lose when they air up.

Does anyone know if it controls and adjusts the air in each side individually? I'm sure the factory wouldn't have both sides connected, as in T'ed at the compressor. This would be dangerous if loaded and taking a sweeping turn. If not controlled individually, maybe at least each side is isolated by check valves? I'll inspect my original compressor to see of I can figure it out, but wanted to see if anyone reading this knew.

 

[kbuskill]

As you can tell by the quick and simple connections I made to the factory air line, I was pressed for time. I really do want/need to monitor the pressures, even if just during the tests. I have some Ts and Schrader valves and plenty of air line left from an install kit. I think I could quickly splice that into the connection between the factory and Air Lift lines. I'd just measure the pressure with a regular tire pressure gauge. Besides, it'd be really convenient to have a way to drain the bags other than pulling the lines apart while I'm sorting out my ride height with the bags pressurized. I'm really missing that .5-.75" drop I lose when they air up.

Does anyone know if it controls and adjusts the air in each side individually? I'm sure the factory wouldn't have both sides connected, as in T'ed at the compressor. This would be dangerous if loaded and taking a sweeping turn. If not controlled individually, maybe at least each side is isolated by check valves? I'll inspect my original compressor to see of I can figure it out, but wanted to see if anyone reading this knew.

It is indeed T'ed at the compressor. No check valves, no isolation.

 

[iamdub]

It is indeed T'ed at the compressor. No check valves, no isolation.

Lame.

Thanks for the info.

 

[swathdiver]

I really do want/need to monitor the pressures, even if just during the tests.

Use your Tech-2...

 

[iamdub]

Use your Tech-2...

If I weren't blowing so much money on 5.3 AFM delete/refresh parts and buying coils and shocks I didn't need, I'd be able to get one. :facepalm:

I didn't know these things even had a pressure transducer. I thought it just ran strictly off of reference from the height sensors. Or is the pressure used for other functions?

 

[swathdiver]

If I weren't blowing so much money on 5.3 AFM delete/refresh parts and buying coils and shocks I didn't need, I'd be able to get one. :facepalm:

I didn't know these things even had a pressure transducer. I thought it just ran strictly off of reference from the height sensors. Or is the pressure used for other functions?

I believe it's part of the compressor. Tom, Wes and Roger have talked about it before. I've got the dumb suspension, no compressor or height sensors.

@gooffeyguy @Doubeleive @avalonandl

 

[Doubeleive]

The bcm can read the air pressure just not sure what it does with it, I see mine typically keeps 30-40lbs in the bladder it doesn't stay on any particular set number, when my last pump took a dump it was giving all kinds of weird numbers anywhere from 12lbs to 150lbs turned out it was leaking thru the internal valve.