Heater Hose Blew Out

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi Folks,

I just had a heater hose blow out on my 07 Yukon XL Denali. As the photo shows, it appears to have literally 'torn' itself off, right at the back side of the crimped coupling on the end of the hose, as it looks like there is still hose within the crimped coupling.

Question for you.... Do I need a special tool to get the crimped connector off of the plastic nipple of the coolant distribution block? If so, where is the best place to buy the tool? Part number?

Does it also make sense to change out both heater hoses, along with both radiator hoses? Any other coolant-containing hoses that should be changed out, as well?

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

[OR VietVet]

I would replace all the rubber hoses at the same time and I think the plastic connector has two places where you reach in at the two windows and squeeze the clips to release from the spout. I am not sure but your second pic seems to show that window on the left side of the connector and it looks like the clip is shown. If there is another window on the opposite side that would maybe prove my point.

 

[Doubeleive]

The easiest way to do deal with that is to snap those small flat tabs off of each side and then you can either pull the connectors off or or keep snapping some more of the plastic part off until you can get them off, I would replace both hoses and "T"'s with new oem ones seeing those lasted over 10 years. the problem is common due to age and from heat/cold.

 

[gooffeyguy]

It doesn't appear that the "T" is what broke, but the quick connect fitting attached to the end of the hose.

You can replace the entire hose, or if there is enough length left to it, they make replacement quick connect hose ends that go into the end of the hose and secured with a hose clamp. This would be the cheapest/quickest way.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Doubeleive]

It doesn't appear that the "T" is what broke, but the quick connect fitting attached to the end of the hose.

You can replace the entire hose, or if there is enough length left to it, they make replacement quick connect hose ends that go into the end of the hose and secured with a hose clamp. This would be the cheapest/quickest way.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

murphy's law says the other side will break soon, those things tend to break at the most inopportune time also, nothing like heading out on a road trip on a sunday with a monday holiday and having that bastard break off in timbuck2 land leaving you with trying to macgyver a fix just to make it down the road.

 

[iamdub]

You can replace them with aluminum Ts for $70, 12" of 3/4" hose, 12" of 1/2" hose and 10 hose clamps and it'll never be a problem again.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451010


https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451011

 

[OR VietVet]

Like these.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

 

[iamdub]

Like these.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

Or these: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/traditional-hose-tee

They don't come with the hoses or clamps, though.

 

[Fless]

Considering the age of the truck and assuming they're original, I would suggest replacing the T-connectors for the rear heat, too, since you're already this far into it.

 

[Foggy]

i debated doing the gruven ones on my 14 when intake was off... i decided to use the oem gm ones...2 tees and i did the upgraded the
dorman heater hose assembly with the metal Y thats by the water pump.
i liked the gruven, but gm carries the 2 TEES inn stock and well priced. Dont get the dorman TEES