Heater Hose Blew Out

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for your quick replies and recommendations, folks. Very much appreciated.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi Folks,

I'm looking at replacing both heater hoses, and I see a different connector going onto a 'Y' fitting on the water pump side of the other heater hose (the one that did not blow out). It appears to be a black collar with at least 1 circular hole in it.

What is the best way to remove this connector? Or perhaps, they are not meant to be removed?

Also, what is the recommended antifreeze coolant for this motor?

 

[donjetman]

That Y fitting does NOT come apart, (unless it breaks).

I replaced that hose with one that has a metal Y fitting, instead of plastic, Dorman# 626-553. It's also available from NAPA# 827-5730-1, $37

 

[Monz11]

Vibrant performance makes silicone heater hoses, a bit pricey, but youll never have to worry about them blowing

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-20445

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I got both heater hoses off the plastic 'T's, but what a PIA to to it! There is virtually no clearance to work in there, with those plastic 'T's sending coolant to the rear heater in the way of everything. The connector removal tool did not work, as the support structure of the plastic 'T's did not allow the tool to fully close around the nipple to disengage the white plastic tab hooks.

And, yes, they were dated 2007.

So, with a hack saw blade, I was able to cut the connector bridge pieces at the bottom of each window on both sides of the connector outer housing, and this allowed me to pull the connector outer housing off the nipple. Then, with curved needle nose pliers, I was able to bend the plastic hooks on the white plastic tab assembly out of the way of the ridge on the nipple, and slide the plastic tab assembly off the nipple.

Now, to get replacement hoses and reinstall.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got both heater hoses off the plastic 'T's, but what a PIA to to it! There is virtually no clearance to work in there, with those plastic 'T's sending coolant to the rear heater in the way of everything. The connector removal tool did not work, as the support structure of the plastic 'T's did not allow the tool to fully close around the nipple to disengage the white plastic tab hooks.

So, with a hack saw blade, I was able to cut the connector bridge pieces at the bottom of each window on both sides of the connector outer housing, and this allowed me to pull the connector outer housing off the nipple. Then, with curved needle nose pliers, I was able to bend the plastic hooks on the white plastic tab assembly out of the way of the ridge on the nipple, and slide the plastic tab assembly off the nipple.

Now, to get replacement hoses and reinstall.

I would just use some tin snips to cut those old parts off, but glad you got them off. Just make sure to get genuine ACDelco T’s and NOT the Dorman ones, but that Dorman Heater hose with the metal Y is better that the OEM one.

 

[OR VietVet]

When you are done have at least 2 cold beers at the ready for celebration. Make sure to pressure test your work when done.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The replacements will just push-n-click on.

Now you know why the factory used quick connectors on those.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Rocket Man]

The replacements will just push-n-click on.

Now you know why the factory used quick connectors on those.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Yeah they’re quick connect but not quick disconnect. Easy. As hell to install.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Once the hoses are installed, what are your recommendations for preferred methods for refilling with coolant and purging of trapped air? Any concerns that I need to be aware of that are unique to these trucks?