Looking to buy a Tahoe. Which is the better scenario?

[zwanzon]

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to get some advice on which route I should take. My wife and I are having a baby in March so it's time to get a 2nd car for myself since my 350z is not "baby friendly". This will be used around town, camping trips, grocery getter, etc. I'm not too worried about gas mileage as I work from home. 4x4 would be a nice luxury to have since I live in Northern Cali. I'm only looking to spend about 17k on an 07' - 10'-ish model and I'm trying to decide between two options:

Option #1: Get a 07' - 10' with higher mileage (150k-ish+) for around 12k and keep 5k in my back pocket for when things start to go out or break.

Option #2: Get an 07' - 10' with lower mileage (80-90k) for around 16k and have less money to fix things, hoping the Tahoe will last longer with lower mileage.

I'm realistically only going to put 3-5k miles a year on this and I take really good care of my vehicles.

Researching on here I've noted the following:
1) Attempt to get 09+ in order to have the 6-speed transmission.
2) Stay away from 07' as it looks like it had quite a few issues. (?)(https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Tahoe/2007/)
3) Common problems to look for: Door handles, cracked dash
4) Disable AFM if applicable
5) The most important factor for buying used is knowing if it was well maintained. (fluids, oil changes, etc)

I've read though this thread: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-a-07-14-nnbs-tahoe-suburban-look-here.61720/ ...and see people have had all kinds of random problems, but that is expected with any used vehicle.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to get some advice on which route I should take. My wife and I are having a baby in March so it's time to get a 2nd car for myself since my 350z is not "baby friendly". This will be used around town, camping trips, grocery getter, etc. I'm not too worried about gas mileage as I work from home. 4x4 would be a nice luxury to have since I live in Northern Cali. I'm only looking to spend about 17k on an 07' - 10'-ish model and I'm trying to decide between two options:

Option #1: Get a 07' - 10' with higher mileage (150k-ish+) for around 12k and keep 5k in my back pocket for when things start to go out or break.

Option #2: Get an 07' - 10' with lower mileage (80-90k) for around 16k and have less money to fix things, hoping the Tahoe will last longer with lower mileage.

I'm realistically only going to put 3-5k miles a year on this and I take really good care of my vehicles.

Researching on here I've noted the following:
1) Attempt to get 09+ in order to have the 6-speed transmission.
2) Stay away from 07' as it looks like it had quite a few issues. (?)(https://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Tahoe/2007/)
3) Common problems to look for: Door handles, cracked dash
4) Disable AFM if applicable
5) The most important factor for buying used is knowing if it was well maintained. (fluids, oil changes, etc)

I've read though this thread: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-a-07-14-nnbs-tahoe-suburban-look-here.61720/ ...and see people have had all kinds of random problems, but that is expected with any used vehicle.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Sounds like your ducks are pretty much in a row already! Lower mileage is always a plus, but it's trumped by better maintenance. Keep in mind that 150k is about half life for a well cared for tahoe.

 

[zwanzon]

Thanks for the feedback Silver. I stumbled upon this thread: http://nastyz28.com/threads/2007-2008-tahoe-with-4l60e-or-get-the-2009-with-the-6l80e.232490/

They mention the 4-speed transmission on the 07-08's might actually be the better bet..?

 

[Doubeleive]

I don't know I drove the 4 speed for 12 years, im kinda liking this 6 speed a LOT, but then again it was 5.3 and this is a 6.2 and im REALLY liking it a lot, lol

 

[swathdiver]

The 6-speed trucks are slightly more efficient. Bluetooth connectivity was added in 2009. In 2010 the USB ports for charging and connecting to the radio/nav. In 2012 the new navigation system was introduced. From about 2012 on the Tow/Haul Mode was progressively updated and made better.

Condition is more important than mileage, to a point. There's a rare '09 Tahoe with the 6.2 and 2WD for sale in Jacksonville, Florida the other day, looks to be in great condition. The L9H did not have AFM/DOD.

When you buy your truck, buy a Tech2 to go with it. One cannot properly diagnose and cure problems, or even know they exist, without one of these tools.

 

[iamdub]

I don't believe that there's much difference between 80-90K miles and 150K miles. The drastic price difference is because people still believe that once that 6th digit on the odometer is illuminated at the 100K mark, the vehicle is on the downhill and is nearing it's demise. So, a vehicle that still shows only 5 digits on the odometer brings a premium. Use the fact that you'll drive it very minimally to your advantage and go with the cheaper, higher-mileage option. About the only real maintenance expense between 80-150K miles is the suspension. It's common for the shocks/struts to be blown out by 80K. It seems that most people continue to ride on them so there's no difference between blown 80K-mile shocks and 150K-mile shocks that are still in service after being blown 70K miles ago. Use the money you saved on the purchase price to get new shocks/struts and you'll be better off in this aspect. Spending more for the lower-mileage one will get you "fresher" wear-item parts, but they're still near or past the end of their service life. I bought my '08 with 147K and never gave it a second thought. It was extremely well-maintained and was in near-mint condition. Now, at 184K, I'd still hop in it for a road trip anywhere at any time. It has/had all the usual and expected failures: cracked dash, motor mount(s), blown Autolevel airbags, blown Autoride shocks/struts, etc. I haven't done anything about the suspension because it's not pressing. The ride is firm (Autoride shocks ride harsher rather than softer when they fail), but they're not leaking. I'll address this when I lower it. My point is that these common failures are usually nothing detrimental. As far as the transmission, between my work vehicles and almost anything else I've driven, I'm used to a 6-speed and wish mine had it. But, the 4-speed is a tried-and-true unit and shouldn't be considered as much of a negative if you'll drive it so rarely. The only real concern I'd have is the AFM. Mine seems to be doing fine at it's mileage but I hear a lifter tick for a few seconds at startup ever so often. Really, it may not even be one of the AFM lifters doing it but it's much more likely that it is. Regardless, I had the AFM disabled with a tune in hopes that it would buy me time until I can delete the AFM or (preferably) swap in a non-AFM 6.0L. Paying someone to delete AFM is around $3,000 but less than half that if you do your own work. There again, finding a higher-mileage but great condition Tahoe will save you enough money to cover such repairs should they be needed. In theory, you'd have a motor just as reliable as the Gen3 and a new, smooth-riding suspension. You'll just have higher mileage on the odometer. With the lower-mileage option, you'll still have questionable AFM status and worn suspension but no "repair fund". The odometer looking prettier is about the only positive. You just have to search diligently. I feel I was very fortunate with my find.

 

[08HoeCD]

I bought an '08 with 126k miles and am happy. Yeah, there have been some maintenance items, but not significantly more than I would see with a vehicle with only 80k miles.

Be prepared to deal with brakes, shocks, lower control arms...plus little things like door lock actuators and maybe a cracked dash----I haven't seen that last one yet but it's common.

Invest in a tune from BlackBear Performance, not so much for increased power, which is noticeable, but to tune out AFM and to enhance everyday driveability.

 

[zwanzon]

Excellent advice guys, thanks. This makes me less worried about buying a 100k+ Tahoe and using any extra money for these issues that have been discussed. It also sounds like I'd be fine with either the 4 or 6-speed, so I will not rule out 08's.

Doing a "background check" on the VIN of whatever truck I'm looking to buy seems most important still in trying to determine if it was well maintained.

A couple other questions:

1) Should I expect to have more issues when buying a 4x4?

2) What does the LT2, LT3 tags stand for? I was looking at this 08' Tahoe which shows LT2.

 

[techbiker]

Excellent advice guys, thanks. This makes me less worried about buying a 100k+ Tahoe and using any extra money for these issues that have been discussed. It also sounds like I'd be fine with either the 4 or 6-speed, so I will not rule out 08's.

Doing a "background check" on the VIN of whatever truck I'm looking to buy seems most important still in trying to determine if it was well maintained.

A couple other questions:

1) Should I expect to have more issues when buying a 4x4?

2) What does the LT2, LT3 tags stand for? I was looking at this 08' Tahoe which shows LT2.

Jordan, you might consider a PPV (depending on how mechanically-inclined you are). Some from the Town of Addison TX recently sold for $9500-$10,000. These were 2012's and 2013's with 50k-60k miles. Of course PPVs will typically require some serious interior work.

I have heard the cracked dash issue and AFM issue were largely resolved by 2013.

 

[zwanzon]

Hey Tech, Ya we have PPV's here as well, most with high mileage though, still going for 10k-ish. I just feel like they all have been beaten and abused. I don't know the cost to reupholster the entire interior and putting in a new center console, etc, but it seems like a lot of work and would come out close to the same as a normal Tahoe for sale.

I would consider it, getting a 13' or 14' with 50k, we just don't have deals like that in CA. (for example this 09' or this 10') I thought about buying out of state to save on taxes, but it would be quite the risk to fly to Texas to look at a PPV.