Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

the throttle body is just a air valve these days.. there's no fuel running to it like the old days.

that's why I was wondering if the spark plugs in those 2 cyl were wet with fuel. that could mean the fuel injectors for those 2 cyl are stuck open a bit. you might look at the fuel pressure on your scanner. it should be 45-50 psi running and when it goes into auto stop, it seems to creep up, I guess from the heat build up. but if you see it falling pretty quickly, you might have a leaky injector.

is it possible what you're seeing is oil? these ls engines without the upgraded oil baffle in the valve cover are known to suck a lot of oil in to the intake. it tends to puddle around places. it's not great for the engine but doesn't normally cause big problems.

Ok. I agree with you 100 percent. I hooked it up a scanner , I found something I couldn't see each injector. But I have combined from the bank 1 and the bank 2. I going to add the chart down below. I used two different scanners but probably they have the same software so I got very similar results. The only thing I have is the misfire on number five which doesn't explain what they had the codes for one and 7. Next week are going to make it appointment for our mechanic that fixes our shop vehicles. We mostly have GM, different kind of vans. There's also one thing that bothers me is that hissing sound . I can not determine from where it's coming. I going to order just in case new injector and try to replace it. But I wonder can I replace the injector without removing the whole manifold and that fuel line the whole thing????

 

[makintoshnex]

Here is the chart of injections.

 

[makintoshnex]

I installed new throttle , got oil on o ring

 

[j91z28d1]

did the throttle body help? I've seen a lot of threads about them helping with throttle response when replaced. I've been curious if it helps much on the hybrids since they do have a bit of delay on the throttle, atleast mine does.

as for the missfire count, I don't do a ton of drivability trouble shooting, but depending on the car and software, if it's not increasing the number while it's running, I don't know that the history count really tells you everything, it's a bit random. if you can watch the missfire live data while it's missing, that would insure it's #5. if it will miss fire a idle, you can do the old school test of pulling the injector plug off, and see if the engine runs worse or not. if nothing changes, you know it was that cyl missing. if it runs worse, than that cyl was firing. you can pull the plug was too, but normally that will shock you haha. so not recommend without a tool.

for the hissing, most mechanic shops have a smoke machine, it pumps a harmless smoke into the intake and shows any leaks. your shop might be able to do that for you..

the injector data in the scanner is telling you the amount of time ecm is commanding the injectors to open. it can show you if for some reason they aren't all the same, or if more or less at idle than expected, that there's a something telling the ecm to add or subtract fuel. but it doesn't really tell you much about the injector itself. it can be clogged or damaged without the ecm knowing about it. there's places you can take them that will clean and flow test them. depending on the cost, sometimes just replacing them is pretty close to the same money. I'd hate to see you just throw money at them and it not be it thou, that's why I was asking what the spark plugs look like, for signs of to much fuel running rich, or super clean like they just came out of the box, meaning it's a lean miss. also how the fuel pressure acts after the engine is off, in hopes you can see if they are leaking down by losing pressure pretty quickly.

it's all just in the hopes of seeing something wrong without spending money on parts that don't fix it. I hate doing that lol, and feel bad watching other people do it.


but in the end, nothing beats having a good mechanic look at it in person. only so much you can do online.

 

[makintoshnex]

did the throttle body help? I've seen a lot of threads about them helping with throttle response when replaced. I've been curious if it helps much on the hybrids since they do have a bit of delay on the throttle, atleast mine does.

as for the missfire count, I don't do a ton of drivability trouble shooting, but depending on the car and software, if it's not increasing the number while it's running, I don't know that the history count really tells you everything, it's a bit random. if you can watch the missfire live data while it's missing, that would insure it's #5. if it will miss fire a idle, you can do the old school test of pulling the injector plug off, and see if the engine runs worse or not. if nothing changes, you know it was that cyl missing. if it runs worse, than that cyl was firing. you can pull the plug was too, but normally that will shock you haha. so not recommend without a tool.

for the hissing, most mechanic shops have a smoke machine, it pumps a harmless smoke into the intake and shows any leaks. your shop might be able to do that for you..

the injector data in the scanner is telling you the amount of time ecm is commanding the injectors to open. it can show you if for some reason they aren't all the same, or if more or less at idle than expected, that there's a something telling the ecm to add or subtract fuel. but it doesn't really tell you much about the injector itself. it can be clogged or damaged without the ecm knowing about it. there's places you can take them that will clean and flow test them. depending on the cost, sometimes just replacing them is pretty close to the same money. I'd hate to see you just throw money at them and it not be it thou, that's why I was asking what the spark plugs look like, for signs of to much fuel running rich, or super clean like they just came out of the box, meaning it's a lean miss. also how the fuel pressure acts after the engine is off, in hopes you can see if they are leaking down by losing pressure pretty quickly.

it's all just in the hopes of seeing something wrong without spending money on parts that don't fix it. I hate doing that lol, and feel bad watching other people do it.


but in the end, nothing beats having a good mechanic look at it in person. only so much you can do online.

I will talk to our shop mechanic. He fixes most of our vans, we have mostly GM few Ford and Nissan, but he does service and inspections on all of them. He says that he can fix that thing.
Abound throttle body. I installed Hitachi, Korean build. All mechanics works way better than old one. Way smoother. About acceleration I started to hear a sound like from supercharger, we have a few spots when in order to get to highway you got to accelerate pretty fast in order to jump into a line, like fast acceleration from 15 mph to 45. That's when I hear that sound. It's probably because new throttle, more air, more compression, and meaning more leaks so I think that makes the sound. But overall at least something new and shiny under the hood. I try to keep that truck running. It's really hard to find a vehicle to replace it. Especially I got 2 small kids, 2 car seats next to each other, plus my wife on a back next to them. Currently I'm looking something for replacement but size wise nothing coming up.

 

[makintoshnex]

Story repeats. Now I have code for coil 7, but I just replaced it. 1 and 7 brand new original.
And once I plugged in AFM disabler check engine light gone, and engine was running as usual. It coil is short probably I have electrical issues in this truck. YOU can not even image how this vehicle pisses me off. Time for trade in currently I don't think that it would survive another 10 or 20 k without serious money investment

 

[BG1988]

Alright today was really rainy day in Brooklyn. I drove like 2 miles. Vehicle started as usual, light shaking, nothing more. Btw I already ordered new MAF and o2 sensors. I was hoping that that would cure misfire. So I took a trip, hit couple of put holes , parked. After 45 minutes I started the engine, it started to shake like crazy . I looked at exhaust I already saw it was puffing. I hooked up scanner and got codes for 1 and 7. It's not the first time I'm getting those codes. About good 9 months ago I had the same situation. Same rainy day. I bet any managed to get out from the underground parking. I had the same impulses into gearbox, I could not move the vehicle when the engine was idling, neither D or R I felt bangs and vehicle was jumping. I went to shop 2 days after, I was amazed that it started as usual after sitting for some time. Shop diagnostics said faulty 1and 7. So they changed coils. Had it only 2 times since than. I have 2 new original coils. Should I try to do o2 sensors+ MAF+ coils. Or it makes no sense??? And I should better invest in that cylinder deactivation system. Or something is getting wet and this happens???

Lot of ground wires in the engine bay

 

[j91z28d1]

Lot of ground wires in the engine bay

Definitely wouldn't hurt to clean that front ground on the driver's side head.. that one seems to come up often.

 

[makintoshnex]

Definitely wouldn't hurt to clean that front ground on the driver's side head.. that one seems to come up often.

I have a question. Frame , body, engine and - terminals on 12v battery are all in one chain. So basically if I have bad grounding somewhere in between, can I add additional grounding wires just to make sure I have good connection???

 

[j91z28d1]

I have a question. Frame , body, engine and - terminals on 12v battery are all in one chain. So basically if I have bad grounding somewhere in between, can I add additional grounding wires just to make sure I have good connection???

it most likely will be OK, but there is something called ground loops that you can create in cars. I don't fully understand it, but I'm told it's a thing, and it's better to repair the factory grounds than to just add a few random ones.


one thing you can do is check voltage drop.. if you have a meter, you can say put the black lead in the neg battery terminal and the red lead on the engine block.. if the ground is good, you'll have 0v but if grounds are bad, you can read a 1 to 2 or even more v on the meter and that gives and idea of how bad the grounds are. the good thing about doing it this way, is you can do it with a load on the circuit. a Lotta things will show a good connection, till you need to draw 50amps thru it and then resistance goes thru the roof.

you can definitely do temp grounds as a trouble shooting technique. add a ground from batt to block, if the issue goes away, you know you need to repair something.