Rear Main Oil Seal

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Larryjb

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I'm actually beginning to doubt whether the rear main seal is leaking. However, the housing plate has a seal that may be leaking as well. I will move to do the oil pan gasket in the coming days.

The first picture is a general overview of the area:
Rear main seal.jpg

There is a thin stream of oil on the back of the engine behind the flex plate, but it is hard to see with the camera. Even by eye it can be hard to see because the oil is very clean there, but it is there.

The second picture shows a huge magnification of the area in the hole of the flex plate. You can just make out the bottom of the rear main seal there. I believe I see a little wetness on the seal, but I suspect there is more oil sitting on the oil pan gasket at the back. However, I don't see a lot draining down from there. It is entirely possible the oil is following the lip of the oil pan over the the right and left sides where it drips.
Rear main seal-2.jpg

The quality of the second image is not so great because of the magnification factor. The orange streak may about 1/3 up from the bottom of the image is, I believe, oil. The rear main is barely visible in the top 1/3 of the image. I do believe I see a little oil there.

So, there is the possibility that the oil I see on the lip of the pan gasket in the 2nd image is coming from the rear main. However, the drips on the road are getting more significant and will leave a 6" round patch of oil by the end of the day.
 

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I'm actually beginning to doubt whether the rear main seal is leaking. However, the housing plate has a seal that may be leaking as well. I will move to do the oil pan gasket in the coming days.

The first picture is a general overview of the area:
View attachment 242704

There is a thin stream of oil on the back of the engine behind the flex plate, but it is hard to see with the camera. Even by eye it can be hard to see because the oil is very clean there, but it is there.

The second picture shows a huge magnification of the area in the hole of the flex plate. You can just make out the bottom of the rear main seal there. I believe I see a little wetness on the seal, but I suspect there is more oil sitting on the oil pan gasket at the back. However, I don't see a lot draining down from there. It is entirely possible the oil is following the lip of the oil pan over the the right and left sides where it drips.
View attachment 242705

The quality of the second image is not so great because of the magnification factor. The orange streak may about 1/3 up from the bottom of the image is, I believe, oil. The rear main is barely visible in the top 1/3 of the image. I do believe I see a little oil there.

So, there is the possibility that the oil I see on the lip of the pan gasket in the 2nd image is coming from the rear main. However, the drips on the road are getting more significant and will leave a 6" round patch of oil by the end of the day.
If the leak is getting worse considerably fast that’s usually a main seal but not always. It’s just that it’s a seal with a moving part going through it so once it starts to go the moving part makes it fail faster than if it’s a seal on a non moving part like an oil pan or rear housing if that makes sense. I hope it’s not but I have a feeling. It’s still worth trying the oil pan gasket first imo.
 

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Benefit of dropping the T-case is you can open it up and install one of those oil pump spacer things so you don't end up with holes in your case. Takes 30-minutes.

You don't need to DROP the transmission, just pull it back enough to get to the rear main seal area. When you're done, slide it on back on and bolt it up!

If you're going to drain transmission fluid from everywhere it can possibly be while you're doing this, don't. Just sign yourself up to do a transmission flush after the job if you want to go to that level of fluid replacement instead of awkwardly trying to drain fluid from places that don't have a drain plug. Don't add work that isn't going to get your rear main seal job done.

Also great time to do the oil pan gasket (especially on a 2WD truck) and especially great time to replace the oil pressure sending unit and camshaft position sensor. Use AC Delco parts because those buggers are not easy to get to otherwise and you might as well avoid that :).

The job took me most of a day because I took my sweet as time and kept loosing extensions despite (this time...) trying to place tools in a specific spot when I'm done. Nope, I proceed to act as normal dropping tools wherever and having to go look for what I needed later. I would starve as a line mechanic... tell you what. But the job is done, she doesn't leak anymore, and I didn't have to pay someone $800+ to do it for me (and shops around here really love them some Dorman parts and I do not like Dorman).
 
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Larryjb

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Thanks Nick,

I wasn't planning to actually "drop" the transmission, but dropping for me would be pretty much 30 seconds of dropping on the transmission jack. I do plan to disconnect everything because I don't want anything to get hung up or kinked. As for draining fluid, I plan to drain the torque converter so I can replace the transmission oil seal, drain the pan, and some fluid will likely come out from the lines as I disconnect the transmission cooler lines. I already replaced the oil pressure sender 2 years ago, but I don't think I touched the cam shaft sensor. I may need to pick one of those up.

However, I now suspect my main leaks are from the oil pan gasket, so I will limit my repair to the oil pan first. Unfortunately, I've got 4wd which means at least lowering the front diff. If the rear main is leaking, I'm not wasting any time or effort to have to dig into it again as most items required to remove the engine oil pan do not need removal for the transmission. In fact, the engine oil pan, even 4x4, should be a breeze comparatively.

I find this hard to believe you did this in a day, taking your time. That seems to be the norm, to pull the transmission, drop the engine oil pan, etc. But then, if you have 2wd you don't have the front drive shaft and diff to worry about, making the engine oil pan a breeze.
 

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Thanks Nick,

I wasn't planning to actually "drop" the transmission, but dropping for me would be pretty much 30 seconds of dropping on the transmission jack. I do plan to disconnect everything because I don't want anything to get hung up or kinked. As for draining fluid, I plan to drain the torque converter so I can replace the transmission oil seal, drain the pan, and some fluid will likely come out from the lines as I disconnect the transmission cooler lines. I already replaced the oil pressure sender 2 years ago, but I don't think I touched the cam shaft sensor. I may need to pick one of those up.

However, I now suspect my main leaks are from the oil pan gasket, so I will limit my repair to the oil pan first. Unfortunately, I've got 4wd which means at least lowering the front diff. If the rear main is leaking, I'm not wasting any time or effort to have to dig into it again as most items required to remove the engine oil pan do not need removal for the transmission. In fact, the engine oil pan, even 4x4, should be a breeze comparatively.

I find this hard to believe you did this in a day, taking your time. That seems to be the norm, to pull the transmission, drop the engine oil pan, etc. But then, if you have 2wd you don't have the front drive shaft and diff to worry about, making the engine oil pan a breeze.


A mechanically inclined friend that works for beers and pizza makes the job easier and quicker but as the day wears on and the empty beer count climbs, you make up for the early speed at the end. Giggles all around. Plus, count your fingers at the end.
 

latvius

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If you have a remote oil cooler let me know as I have some tricks I learned the hard way on my Denali when you drop the front axle.
 
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Larryjb

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If you have a remote oil cooler let me know as I have some tricks I learned the hard way on my Denali when you drop the front axle.
I don't have an oil cooler in any way. Is it worth it to install? I believe all I'd need is the adapter, gasket, and hoses as long as I have the two plugs in the radiator.
 

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