Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[Rocket Man]

Damn. I pulled both axles and they're the same. I switched them side to side and the ABS ring is still floppy on the driver side but it seems the passenger side is installed about 1/8" closer to the outside. I think it's barely catching. Brian @ Moser Engineering said the axles have to be ordered for ABS or they aren't machined for the ring. From what I measured, the wide part of the axles need to extend about another 1 1/2" for the ABS ring. I'm considering trying to pull the bearing and seal and pull the ABS ring I just installed out closer to the bearing to see if the driver side will catch but I'm afraid the ABS will just fail again eventually and I'll have to do it again anyway. They will run me about $500 shipped and he said about 4-5 days shipping plus 2 days to make them. I guess I'll get to measuring the axles and place my order. Thanks All Star Customs.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ordered. Brian @Moser made that easy for me since they're just stock in every way except length. Their order form was asking me for way too much information. This time, they're machined for ABS so I will finally be able to kick that problem. ABS, Traction Control, and Stabilitrack will work and no more warning lights. He said they will ship Monday and hopefully I'll have them by the end of next week. Now I get to go make some brake lines after all since I couldn't find any the right length yesterday. This will be pretty easy though since I can make them up in my garage and then go bolt them on. Got a tubing bender, double flare loan-a-tool and (2) 30" brake lines.

 

[Rocket Man]

Stupid double flare. I made one line with a double flare like the videos show and when it was done it looked crooked on the end of the line. I hooked it up and without any pressure it was leaking so I put the old one back on that had the end capped, then decided to just make a bend at the end where it used to connect to the back of the drum brake and hook it to the stainless hose. It worked great. I did the same to the other side. Kind of hard to believe I didn't realize this sooner...anyway I bled the brakes with my Motiv pressure bleeder and at 20 psi there's no leaks. Man that bleeder makes it easy. So I'm done until the axles come in. The truck will just have to stay on jackstands for awhile.

 

[iamdub]

With the axles out, the rings couldn't have been TIG'ed in place?

 

[Rocket Man]

With the axles out, the rings couldn't have been TIG'ed in place?

The rings are installed in the tubes; they're a weird design that kind of float in an outer ring and when the axle is slid in, they grab it and hold. Also, Moser said any welding would create weak points and lead to the axles breaking. I asked about having sleeves machined that would extend the larger part of the axles and having them tacked in place and that's when they told me about any welding on them would probably make them fail. The axles are heat treated. If there was a way to do something without buying new axles I'd do it but if it creates a safety concern I'd rather not. I could see an axle flying off on the freeway. Not worth it. I decided to rely on the advice of someone who would know, even though he did end up selling me axles. I did research a bit on welding heat treated axles and nowhere did I see that it was safe, all I read said don't do it. Period.

 

[iamdub]

The rings are installed in the tubes; they're a weird design that kind of float in an outer ring and when the axle is slid in, they grab it and hold. Also, Moser said any welding would create weak points and lead to the axles breaking. I asked about having sleeves machined that would extend the larger part of the axles and having them tacked in place and that's when they told me about any welding on them would probably make them fail. The axles are heat treated. If there was a way to do something without buying new axles I'd do it but if it creates a safety concern I'd rather not. I could see an axle flying off on the freeway. Not worth it. I decided to rely on the advice of someone who would know, even though he did end up selling me axles. I did research a bit on welding heat treated axles and nowhere did I see that it was safe, all I read said don't do it. Period.

That all makes sense and I agree. My only experience with ABS reluctor rings is those pressed onto front disc brake hubs or rotors. Those can be welded (TIG'ed) since the heat is very controlled and local and those parts aren't heat treated.

I like the thought of having sleeves machined. But, damn, they'd have to be spot-on with the inner and outer diameters because of the press-fit needed. Yeah, new axles are the surefire thing and Moser is good stuff.

 

[Rocket Man]

The diff cover was off and I had some crinkle paint so why not. I also did the whole truck with Meguiar's #2 Fine-Cut Cleaner today. Next step tomorrow. That will be the Tri-Nova either paint sealer or liquid wax.

 

[Rocket Man]

That all makes sense and I agree. My only experience with ABS reluctor rings is those pressed onto front disc brake hubs or rotors. Those can be welded (TIG'ed) since the heat is very controlled and local and those parts aren't heat treated.

I like the thought of having sleeves machined. But, damn, they'd have to be spot-on with the inner and outer diameters because of the press-fit needed. Yeah, new axles are the surefire thing and Moser is good stuff.

Yeah, I thought about having them machined so the inside tolerance was so tight that they'd have to be pre-heated in order to slide on and then after they cooled they'd be on solid but I had visions of them going on halfway and cooling too fast and getting stuck. I opted for the sure thing even though it's expensive. I just want it done right and no more ABS, TC and Stabilitrack warnings. All 3 of those systems are down because of one wheel speed sensor. I can't believe the PO just drove it like this for so long, and even the steering position sensor failing and the passenger airbag warning too. Pretty much every warning was on. I did a code scan when I bought it and was convinced I could fix them all but it was still a little bit of a leap of faith.

 

[iamdub]

Yeah, I thought about having them machined so the inside tolerance was so tight that they'd have to be pre-heated in order to slide on and then after they cooled they'd be on solid but I had visions of them going on halfway and cooling too fast and getting stuck. I opted for the sure thing even though it's expensive. I just want it done right and no more ABS, TC and Stabilitrack warnings. All 3 of those systems are down because of one wheel speed sensor. I can't believe the PO just drove it like this for so long, and even the steering position sensor failing and the passenger airbag warning too. Pretty much every warning was on. I did a code scan when I bought it and was convinced I could fix them all but it was still a little bit of a leap of faith.

But, oh, the satisfaction of fixing everything and having all those lights off with those systems still functioning as they should! I can't stand warning lights and defunct systems. Other than the axle/ring stuff being a PITA, your issues really weren't all that difficult to resolve and you learned a few things about your truck/NNBSs along the way.

The TPMS light is the only one that I have on, and it's because of failed sensors. I have new ones but don't wanna put them on the stock wheels since I'll be getting 22s later. Is yours still off and do you have ANY idea how you killed it? Was it just a fuse you removed and reinserted or maybe left out? There's no way they'd make it so simple as removing a fuse to the TPMS. I'm tempted to start pulling fuses- just the underhood box, right?

 

[Rocket Man]

But, oh, the satisfaction of fixing everything and having all those lights off with those systems still functioning as they should! I can't stand warning lights and defunct systems. Other than the axle/ring stuff being a PITA, your issues really weren't all that difficult to resolve and you learned a few things about your truck/NNBSs along the way.

The TPMS light is the only one that I have on, and it's because of failed sensors. I have new ones but don't wanna put them on the stock wheels since I'll be getting 22s later. Is yours still off and do you have ANY idea how you killed it? Was it just a fuse you removed and reinserted or maybe left out? There's no way they'd make it so simple as removing a fuse to the TPMS. I'm tempted to start pulling fuses- just the underhood box, right?

My TPMS light is still off. It went off right after I was pulling one fuse at a time and reinserting them in the under hood fuse block, yes. There's no fuse labled for that system. The only thing that I messed up on was that when I pulled the trans control module fuse, I put it back in a blank spot so my trans went into limp mode but other than that I was just pulling them, looking to see if they were blown, and reinserting them. Just be careful and pull one at a time.