What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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ScottyBoy

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FIXED!!
It was instructional error. I had the constant 12v bolted on a constant hot pole under the plastic fuse panel. I moved it to the constant 12v "red box" next to the alternator. Fans work as they should.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
There's an actual stud on the front of the fuse box that it supposed to bolt on to. There should currently be a wire already bolted to the same stud with an 8mm nut. Unscrew that nut, and hook that ring terminal into that same nut and re-mount it. That way you can mount the relays in the factory location UNDER the fuse box cover, and they will be more protected from the weather.
 

Tonyrodz

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There's an actual stud on the front of the fuse box that it supposed to bolt on to. There should currently be a wire already bolted to the same stud with an 8mm nut. Unscrew that nut, and hook that ring terminal into that same nut and re-mount it. That way you can mount the relays in the factory location UNDER the fuse box cover, and they will be more protected from the weather.
That's the stud it was originally attached to. For whatever reason they never turned on. I have those relays just laying under the master cylinder. I didn't know they were supposed to be under the fuse box cover. Maybe when I'll get more motivated I'll take all that apart again and try to get it under there. I'm not sure if I have enough slack tho. Believe me--no complaints, I'm just happy they're working as they should.
 

mattbta

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Wednesday, pulled out of the driveway en route to a cabin in Broken Bow, OK, and the shifter seemed a little wobbly. Grabbed it and it went limp. :wtf2:

I knew what happened before I pulled the clamshell :eek:. To properly orient the NNBS shift lever I installed, I followed these instructions and notched the metal and bent in a vice. Perhaps I went too deep with the cut, but the repeated motion of pulling down on the lever combined with soft metal severed it right in two.

Was able to use a small screwdriver to operate the transmission and made the trip to/from. I no longer have the original, so I will order another NNBS chrome/leather like the broken one. I might try to bend it in the vice without the notch. Maybe some heat? Just don't want to be in that situation again but without the bend it hangs so low (too much innuendo for one post) when in "Drive".

IMG_3285.jpegIMG_3286.jpeg
 

Tonyrodz

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Wednesday, pulled out of the driveway en route to a cabin in Broken Bow, OK, and the shifter seemed a little wobbly. Grabbed it and it went limp. :wtf2:

I knew what happened before I pulled the clamshell :eek:. To properly orient the NNBS shift lever I installed, I followed these instructions and notched the metal and bent in a vice. Perhaps I went too deep with the cut, but the repeated motion of pulling down on the lever combined with soft metal severed it right in two.

Was able to use a small screwdriver to operate the transmission and made the trip to/from. I no longer have the original, so I will order another NNBS chrome/leather like the broken one. I might try to bend it in the vice without the notch. Maybe some heat? Just don't want to be in that situation again but without the bend it hangs so low (too much innuendo for one post) when in "Drive".

View attachment 415120View attachment 415121
I just left mine as is when I installed it. You get used to it.
 

Tonyrodz

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So I finally swapped to my winter wheels setup. Cold and windy AF, but I wanted to do it before any snow comes--since my rear tires are a "little low on tread" lol.
Anyway, I had seen the rr parking brake cables weren't routed correctly, so I figured I'd fix them. Gave it a shot--the cables were way to stiff to swing them around. Tried removing the lower shock bolt, didn't work either. I said screw it. As I was looking at that, I saw this 409531-f6d95434031281ec554ff34ee49de003.jpg
Anybody see it? Good thing I was under there. When the "mechanic" swapped out the rear--besides not routing the parking brake cables correctly, he left my rear brake line too close to the bump stop and cup, so every time I'd hit a dip or bump it was being pinched between the frame and cup/bump stop. That's quality work right there. Just confirms what I already know--No one gives a damn about your stuff except for you.
Also saw this. This is the ds. I knew the boot was torn already. At least this part of the truck will never rust.409530-fe16696f00bfb4e4d77b6482c1bfec96.jpg
 

clandr1

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No one gives a damn about your stuff except for you.
Very true and I feel you. I did the first DIY oil change on my wife's 2016 Toyota 4Runner (we bought it new and it's only ever been serviced by Toyota dealers) and found missing, over tightened, and under tightened skid plate and splash guard bolts. Drives me ******* insane and I should have started doing my own oil changes as soon as it was out of warranty (it has 79k on it now). Lesson learned.
 

blueinkd

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So I finally swapped to my winter wheels setup. Cold and windy AF, but I wanted to do it before any snow comes--since my rear tires are a "little low on tread" lol.
Anyway, I had seen the rr parking brake cables weren't routed correctly, so I figured I'd fix them. Gave it a shot--the cables were way to stiff to swing them around. Tried removing the lower shock bolt, didn't work either. I said screw it. As I was looking at that, I saw this View attachment 415195
Anybody see it? Good thing I was under there. When the "mechanic" swapped out the rear--besides not routing the parking brake cables correctly, he left my rear brake line too close to the bump stop and cup, so every time I'd hit a dip or bump it was being pinched between the frame and cup/bump stop. That's quality work right there. Just confirms what I already know--No one gives a damn about your stuff except for you.
Also saw this. This is the ds. I knew the boot was torn already. At least this part of the truck will never rust.View attachment 415196
Is this the same mechanic I have seen you reference all year in various shenanigans??
 

Rocket Man

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FIXED!!
It was instructional error. I had the constant 12v bolted on a constant hot pole under the plastic fuse panel. I moved it to the constant 12v "red box" next to the alternator. Fans work as they should.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
Oh hell yes FINALLY! I can’t believe you got your electric fan conversion done and working! Congrats Tony!
 

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